Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello… I bought a Kawasaki from E-Bay some time ago. I was inspired by some other topics (the wrong year of the BMW, the Kawa from Poland..) and I also have a question: At first reperatures I had to realize that my almost new bike, year 94 was obviously not always repaired and maintained by professionals. Quite obviously one of the only 7 previous owners “wrought” at least a dozen screws with the pliers. I suspect further damage and trust mi It’s hard to get closer to the motorcycle with a wrench. Now I’m helpless – the bike sold as a hobby motorcycle doesn’t correspond to the purchase contract, because there was no talk of defensive screws. Who cares for it? What does the HGB say about it? Or can I just refer to the BGB, because it was a private business. Is this a case for the court in economic terms or should I seek a private agreement (with whom of the 7 )? I’m afraid I bought something from windy bikers at E-Bay – all crooks, especially if you don’t know where they come from or want to come from before!

Hello fellow sufferers, short description of the problem with my “Karla” (GPZ600 R BJ 1986, ZX 600 A). “Karla” jumps without murmuring in the morning (even after colder nights) flawlessly (apart from the usual choke problem).If I take my darling to the bun, she no longer jumps.Benzinhahn stands on “ON”. Must then wait about 30min and hope that she then starts again.If she does this, she runs perfectly.When I have reached the home yard again,… …….. “Karla” from,………………..trying to start again,………………………………..nix is!!!*smack* 30min everything Roger starts again. Have now already renewed the spark plugs, the reperature set for the “missing……..” petrol tap lie here when I fell yesterday on the subject of underpressure. What can the jewel have? Carburettors were syncronized 1000 km ago. Can anyone give me some useful tips?

Here is a clear tendency to find a specific manufacturer or type of brake lining.Because all opinions differ very much.Some swear on Lucas,EBC or on those of the large motorcycle accessories mail order ( Louis,Polo etc.).Remodelling on ZZR fork including front wheel including six piston brake system.Organic or sintermetal.Original Kawasaki pads have appothetics prices. Despite the fact that the brake linings are not suitable for use in motor bikes, there is no need to change the brake lining on my motorcycle. r confusing variety has to be given the appropriate coverings that should be enough, I say Ottonormalfahrer. I am looking forward to lively tips, tricks or experiences.If I have overlooked here in the forum posts on the topic, I ask you to excuse this. Thank you in advance mfG Klaus

Hello, with my zx10 I wanted to change the oil filter, according to the motto screw loosen complete filter block out new filter on the screw on it and pure the whole, as with other motorcycles usual. According to the workshop manual and an English repair instruction a simple thing. Now it comes: After I have solved the screw now, I can not take the filter block out of one piece, because the large round plate does not pass the exhaust pipe (cross-connection piece, 4in2). H Do you also have such a phenomenon, or am I the only one? I think I will pull the long screw out completely and then I can move the lid sideways. I just hope that I can get it back in with the new filter.

My GPZ 1100 annoys me – I had already described it elsewhere – with a strongly pulsating front brake and a still overflowing carburetor 2. The latter is not a bigger problem, just a fiddle, on which I am actually not so sharp, but the brake annoys. Often enough a offset of the discs to solve the problem (or just to create) but if the disc has a blow away, you have to replace it or have it straightened. Now I would like to test this. . By having to get the wheel out for the new front tire anyway, I would unscrew the windows and check them. Has anyone ever done this ? Put on a glass plate ? Put anything on it before ?

One wonders slowly what is more expensive. 1 gram of gold or one gram of kawasaki. And if those who set the spare parts prices at Kawasaki really still have all the slats on the fence. I repaired the carburettor for plutkenstein and found, among other things, that a carburettor lacked the needle nozzle, which a previous “repairer” had swept away (=lost). No problem, I thought, trifle, cost a few cents, are 1.5 grams of brass. and the Alex is a very friendly Kawasaki man, who can’t do anything for it, I stared at the number 25.82 Euro without any surprise. Inflated to the 267 kg GPZ 1100, which I have just finished and will be offering soon, I can already calculate their price: this would then be at 4.45 Million Euro. Sorry plutkenstein, I can’t help it, at least your GPZ 500 S will run again soon without reason, because your carburettors will go to the Post. Nevertheless, I am really stunned about this. At the time of Emperor Charles of the Fifth, it would have hit the person responsible. In his “Peynical Court Order” the “Straffe of the Wucherey” was the stake…

Hello kawabiker I drive a gtr 1400 and was recently to the 12000 insp. at a kawa dealer in leipzig. after first request was called me 250€.When the gtr (with my wife as a witness) was delivered it was then already 350€ lt.kawaserviceplan .na goes well still still,so radio number still left for emergency. the next day I was greeted with the words – it has become a little more- rubber footrest mounting at the back for cuts- rich 620€……it was still changed brake fluid( after 23 months allegedly drawn water) to talk us out would have only told us the wage costs + material…. is the hamm, in my life I have already bought some cars and motorcycles and all the mundane prices entered also a !!!!!!inquiries with other kawa dealers was also confirmed to me 350€.After renewed excitement and telephone call with the managing director were issued to me 80€,still 200€ more expensive as promised. so who creates his kawa after LEIPZIG to insp. BITTE A WRITTEN. COST VORENSCHLAG RELATING !!!!!! I was made impossible by false statement a workshop comparison. with a hourly break of over 70€ also clear……. mfg rainer

hello I drive an er6n, is my first “season” and would have a question for knee grinding. my grinder looks like this at the moment (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/snapshot2011072311.jpg/ ). as you see it is not evenly sanded, but the front edge is sanded off (with my left grinder this is even more visible, as I am not yet so sure on the left and not so often grind). now my question is whether I have something wrong with the hang off technique. do and what I can do so that I (as I have seen with other drivers) grind so that my knee grinder is evenly sanded off. is it because my motorcycle is not a super sportsman and therefore I automatically do not come so far down? of course I don’t care how the grinders look and I know that the question is a bit banal but I would still like to know if this is “normal”. thx, mike

Hello, I bought myself a motorcycle last Saturday. On the internet was “Kawasaki KZ 550 H/GPZ 550 UT”. Unfortunately, in the papers only the key number of Kawasaki and then only “000000000”. Now I would like to know which model this is. Can it be that it was an import from abroad? As color is also only white in the papers, although it is red (original lacquer). Frame number agrees with the one of the papers. It is throttled to 20 kW. Would also like to use the L I can’t find anything on the internet about the model “KZ 550 H”. Please help me! Thank you very much!

Hello, I’m just setting the valve play at my ZR7, here I’ve been provided with two instructions. Guide No. 1http://www.s-n.name/ZR7Forum/Ventile/Ventilspiel_002_tommi.htm Essentially, this statement is concerned: When piston number 1 is on OT, the following valves can be measured. No. 1: Inlet and outlet, No. 2: Outlet, No. 3: Inlet If piston number 4 is on OT, the following valves can be measured. No. 2: Inlet, No. 3: Outlet No. 4: Inlet and release instructions no.2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0cJ0Ca1EUo I can summarize the explanation in this video: In the OT marking 1-4, for example, cylinder 1 stands when ignition –> Valves are closed and can be tested (one + outlet cylinder 1). Cylinder 4 is then pre-priming –> Valves overlap and a measurement is not possible. A complete revolution further up to the OT marking 1-4 is cylinder 4 when ignition –> Valves are closed and can be The same is done with cylinder 2+3 Now the conflict: the first variant is quite celebrated and applied in the ZR7 forum … I remember then to have set my GPZ according to the instruction No. 2. According to instruction No. 2, the respective cams are always horizontal to the head and this is a memory that remained for me from then on. The measurements for both variants are very different, therefore my question : Is variant 2 correct and therefore variant 1 wrong? I just remembered something. At that time I had a shop at hand, because I paid 1.20€-2.20€ per Shim + mail delivery. Now I can only find shops where it starts from 6,90€ per Shim + 6€ shipping ….has jmd alternative dealer at start? I thank you for helpful answers. LG