Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello community, does any of you know how best to disable the anti-hopping function in the clutch? I mean, without affecting the normal switching processes. Motorcycle is a ZXT 10D, Built ’96 (ZZR 1100D). Can you simply replace the 12 springs in the rear part of the inner basket by rigid sleeves? Has anyone ever done this or am I the only one who doesn’t like it when someone else than me has an influence on the motorcycle in certain driving situations? persuz

Hello together, I signed up here because I have a few questions about a Kawasaki motorcycle. I don’t have much to do with motorcycles, it’s probably also because I don’t have a driver’s license for this, because only 16 … 🙂 I’m more active in the Ruprik tractor. So, now, but to my case. My grandfather has a Kawasaki, 4 cylinders standing. The stand only years around, was never moved. I’m also slowly getting out of it, so last summer and trying to run the thing. The battery is broken but, therefore, I could not make all the wide tours with the motorcycle, battery was simply over. In the higher speeds it always started “to spit”. If I wanted to speed up suddenly it did not come after it. I guess dirt in the carburetor ? Can also be that a little bit of petrol was in there .. The fuel hoses were a But well, I want to make the motorcycle fit again. New battery, carburetor ultrasonic cleaners, new petrol hoses new spark plugs etc. Maintenance just. Now I have search via Google pictures with different photos and have come to the conclusion that the Kawa must be a Z400. Built. 74 possibly ? I have unfortunately no data there, come only Easter again to my grandpa and motorcycle. Will however by then already have got spare parts. But I have here a picture, vi elleicht can you help me ? What is it now ? And where do I get spare parts for it ? Carburettor seals , filters etc. !

Moin, since I finally got out of the hospital and I probably have to stay home for the next few weeks, I wanted to ask a question. I had an accident on 18.06.2011 with my motorcycle (zx6r bj 00). I drove with my motorcycle the highway where there was no speed train, drove 250-260km/h in the meantime. Then there were a few cars in front of me, which eventually also let me overtake. Then I accelerated again. The truck for the right lane of the cars behind it and was immediately skipped to the left lane. I had no chance to evade or brake enough anymore and drove it to the car with approx. 160 km/h fully in the back. Had already finished with my life when I noticed that I couldn’t make it any more. After the train’s ascent, I saw that a truck was the first to drive to the motorway. I made a salto on the front of the motorcycle and slipped about 100m with the ass over than asphalt. On the vehicle and on my motorcycle there was total damage. The driver now claims that he was already on the fast track when I am on it and has reported his damage only to my insurance company, he said nothing at all with his insurance. I handed everything to a lawyer. I smashed the Kpl. thumb joint on my hand on my right hand. , as well as a beck break, a bruise in the genital area (have already Easter) ^^ and a few deep abrasions. Be operated on Monday at hand so that they can patch my joint together again. I’m glad that I’m still alive at all, but it upsets me by the accident opponent, who didn’t even ask how I am… what do you think about the question of guilt???

Hello forum, I’m new here and hope I don’t make a mistake here the first time. I wanted to get a GPZ 900 R soon, but I have a few things to think about. First the motorcycle was built in 1989, that is 22 years old and ran a whole 200,000 km. The seller has renewed in front of about 10,000 km tires, brakes, Simmeringe in the fork, chain kit and cooling circuit. He also said that he probably had resyncronized it, whatever that means. Tips and experiences regarding the GPZ and what should I pay attention to during the test drive? I thank you already in advance MfG Eddie

Servus, in advance, I have not found a forum section where this question fits specifically. Therefore, I would be grateful if a moderator should postpone my question accordingly. To the situation: I collected my first laps/experiences on a race track last week to be exactly on the Nürburgring GP. Overall I drove 4 turns and in the last one I had my first slide. Maybe someone would be so nice and would explain what it was about, or would have I am in danger with my ZXR 400, tyres Michelin Pilot Power 2CT, standard dimensions. Tyre pressure according to manufacturer specification. In the third corner the rear wheel came to me, felt it simply slipped away as if I had “run over” the tire from the slanting position I have already sanded with the footrests, but then pressed a little further and then fell into the corner inner side as the rear wheel has lost its adhesion. e also tell me that the motorcycle has literally slipped away towards the corner outside. My speed was estimated at around 60km/h. If I were interested, I could put in a few photos. My questions are now; were these already the limits of the tyres, or even of the motorcycle? Would you have been able to prevent this “slip” by another driving technique (Hang off)? How do I know when I am at the limits of the tyres or of the motorcycle? I did not feel any signs that I had too much slanting, etc. Next year I’m going to participate in a driver training. I’m absolutely thrilled by my ZXR. An absolute force in the curves. Greetings

Hello Kawa friends, because the light didn’t go, I changed the bulb. Since this did not create any remedy I also controlled the 4 fuses. Also no broken. What is the next step? And yes, I noticed afterwards that it is not because of the bulb, when both lights don’t go anymore

Hello dear community, I bought a Kawasaki Z800e 2 days ago, which is throttled to 48hp over the gas train and “only” 9000km on it and is 2015 year of construction. The machine runs clean and quiet, only one thing bothers me, and that would be the stationary gas. If I turn on the engine, the machine runs without turning on the gas lever already on 2000 revolutions. Here I can turn the gas lever in the opposite direction by 1cm – 1.5cm, which results in the speed again I don’t know about sorry. Now I let go of the gas lever again, it moves back to the standard position and goes back to 2000 revolutions, I can’t imagine that it’s something with the engine but rather what has to do with the lever or train, because by chance someone knows what this is about and how to fix it??? In addition, another question: The clutch lever and brake lever is from V-Trec, everything works perfectly, only the clutch lever is very hard to operate and also does not feel smooth when letting go, but jams quite easily, not that it hangs, but it does not feel fluid when returning… Many thanks to all who take the time and for every answer, am new here

Hello together, since I have been driving the Kawa very rarely for the last 3 years, I want to sell it now. Tüv expired last year. So I went to a motorcycle house to make the TÜV there. Since the last Tüv I drove about 500km. At that time, at the same workshop, new tires, new chain and new pinion were attached. Now my Kawa did not pass the TÜV. Defects is a game in the camp at the suspension of the rear wheel. Cost approx. 400€ according to the workshop. The value of the Kawa is perhaps 130€. I have now thought about changing the camp myself and took a closer look at it. So I picked up the rear wheel with a stand and searched for the game in the camp at the suspension in vain. Now I would like to get a second opinion. But where should I go? I can’t go to a free workshop, which also offers Tüv, since the same TÜV makes the control there. I think already that it is in a database I’m not allowed to go to a free workshop without a TÜV appointment, because the TÜV has expired. What should I do now? How do you control the camp exactly during the suspension? I pulled and wobbled a lot, but couldn’t find any game. Where I did the Tüv, could or didn’t want to show me, because there was too little time. It’s been funny. My guess is, that they might want to exchange something that is not necessary. In addition, a game like this should have been noticed before the last 500km, so before the last TÜV!? Can you give me a piece of advice here? Thank you in advance. MfG

Hello, I have a much bigger problem and don’t know any more. My ninja bj.96 has recently made fierce bitches. At first it was all top, at once she started to take no gas from 140 for a short time, neither turning up nor holding on to the gas, suddenly there was a push again and then she went on. However, at 120/130 it’s all over again, you can practically turn the cock in circles there nothing happens anymore.??? 1 and 2 gear everything great after work. Gasoline pump, hoses, carburettor completely cleaned, nozzles checked, new candles to do nothing, I really don’t know what else it could be..maybe know yes jmd rat. Thanks..ps…is ne zx7r bj. 96

Hello Kawasakifriends, after more than 10 years my ZR-7s now makes problems, this expresses itself as follows. 1. When starting you feel a slight starting weakness so that you almost die off. 2. When driving off (gas completely closed) and later giving gas it jerks slightly. 3. Stand gas is quite restless or can not be adjusted. Problems 1 and 2 can be solved by slightly increasing the stand gas. Then however, it only travels slowly. In my opinion, the problem should be found in the idling system of the carburettor. The Kawa now has 36tkm down and thus the valves were adjusted last year. In the meantime the following was done… – Carburettor was cleaned by specialist company Ultrasonic. – All 4 idling control screws incl. O-rings were replaced and set to 2.5 (outside) or 2.25 (inside) revolutions. – All 4 carburettor rubbers (connection air filter to carburettor) were n replaced. – Carburettor synchronized – 2014 or had new idling nozzles installed just under 5tkm ago Otherwise I did not have any problems in the upper load range…today only nearly 300km again. I have read in other threads that it is recommended to increase the original 35er idling nozzle. What do you say and if yes on which size (38, 40 or 42)