Category: Kawasaki Forum

servus, sometimes a question, am currently in despair, after several phone calls and contact reception by e-mails I still have no switch waves seal. somehow such a thing can no longer deliver or it takes and can not tell me when it is available. my seal below right that where the switchbar goes in is gone, now I have already tried a lot, but get it not dense and up to 8 weeks on a stupid seal I don’t want to wait either. has here still some dwer ne idea where I get the part? it’s not the simmering behind the scratch, it’s the din below what’s ripped. Part number 92049Bhttp://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?… or something you can still get that close to? so shit, must constantly put something under, because not just loses a little bit of oil. Or does anyone else have the complete Gus wall? to rebuild? Greeting and thank you

Hi, my girlfriend and I drove away with the GPZ over the weekend. I drove nice and easy, had been really fun, for a while with approx. 100 km/h on the highway stubbled there. We had covered about half of the planned distance, suddenly the machine started to jerk, no more gas took on, went out and I was forced to drive to a totally unfavorable place to the side or to roll. Fuel was enough in, so that wasn’t it. I had e but the feeling that she no longer gets fuel. She didn’t want to jump any more, only when I put the gas tap briefly on PRI, she came again and I could drive the next AB exit out and into a parking lot. What do I think. Let the planned WE burst, call ADAC etc.? So I definitely couldn’t continue. Had still a nice track ahead of us. I remembered many posts here in the forum, that one could first find a possibly existing one. There were no problems with mine, but I didn’t think of anything else. So I dismantled the tank and hoped that a piece of the fuel hose would be so long that I could connect the hose directly from the tank to the carburettors. That was the case thanks to God. So: intermediate filter out and see there: Machine ran again, gave the whole WE no more problems, then drove a total of about 400 km. r wonders: can I imagine that not enough fuel will pass through the filter if you give it quite a bit of gas. But if I tuck around leisurely at 100 km/h, how can that be? It is also interesting that I managed to get through with the thing in it for almost a year without any problems. I cleaned and rusted the tank in winter, so there should have been no dirt in the filter. What do you think?

Hy here Melbel1! today I don’t want to bother you with copying from the manual!!!! My 750 ut nerves when it’s warm,it always has different speed between off- 500-1200 no matter how gently I turn at the stand gas screw. It only runs with Choke and immediately runs around to 5000 6000. then I play with the Chok then go until I start. Chok pure exploit at the first ampel.if I turn the stand gas screw higher then it hangs away at the gas.I hope you can me help with your experience? Would really be great greetings from Stuttgart

Moin Moin or say hello to God. My GPZ600r runs a little unruihg when I start you she likes to go out at the lower speed range immediately again…..(choke is drawn) I always play with the gas until she is warm. After that she does not go out anymore. Sometimes however, the rev indicator always moves between 900 and 1500 turns (after approx.10-15min.) So a little restless. After this time she always stays between 1000-1200 . If I will have my Kawa painted again in winter anyway, maybe I should leave the carburetor for ultrasound cleaning? And could that be the problem? So long tours does the little one very well with and the gerlos pass she also packs very well. I think however, she could sometimes take the gas better… (but only trust) Will still have so much fun with the little one…….

Hello together, I have the following problem: Since I forgot to adjust the training course regulation screw correctly, my GPZ 600 R BJ 86 got too much petrol and is completely “decomposed” after a short distance.Wouldn’t want to start again. Since I’m not a car driver and young in the motorcycle world, I first dived out the spark plugs (I didn’t know that I didn’t have Sepel the training course regulation screw properly) then it started again one-way-free After about 2 km again the same.Then I found out that it must be the roadway and she was standing about a week before my apartment. I regularly tried to start it. Only the first time before I expanded the roadway, I had Problene. Despite the nomally sufficient jog train she did not want to go on and only started the “click” under the seat. (safe box, ignitor or something). At the last time I pulled Jog right away and then is Then I found out the problem, fixed it and reassembled it. And there was no spark and there was just the click. Again the spark plugs changed but this time it didn’t work out. I didn’t have an explanation what to do. And ask you to help me. Thank you in advance. Greetings younglist

Evening dear community The friend of my brother had a serious motorcycle accident in Bielefeld yesterday. A truck driver had overlooked him. Today he got word a few minutes ago that he died from his injuries. Now a world has broken down for Him and I don’t know how I can help my brother. My brother also drives motorcycle which I think also plays a role. Can someone maybe tell me how to build it now? He is working Is the Commission aware of this?

Hello… I bought a Kawasaki from E-Bay some time ago. I was inspired by some other topics (the wrong year of the BMW, the Kawa from Poland..) and I also have a question: At first reperatures I had to realize that my almost new bike, year 94 was obviously not always repaired and maintained by professionals. Quite obviously one of the only 7 previous owners “wrought” at least a dozen screws with the pliers. I suspect further damage and trust mi It’s hard to get closer to the motorcycle with a wrench. Now I’m helpless – the bike sold as a hobby motorcycle doesn’t correspond to the purchase contract, because there was no talk of defensive screws. Who cares for it? What does the HGB say about it? Or can I just refer to the BGB, because it was a private business. Is this a case for the court in economic terms or should I seek a private agreement (with whom of the 7 )? I’m afraid I bought something from windy bikers at E-Bay – all crooks, especially if you don’t know where they come from or want to come from before!

Hello fellow sufferers, short description of the problem with my “Karla” (GPZ600 R BJ 1986, ZX 600 A). “Karla” jumps without murmuring in the morning (even after colder nights) flawlessly (apart from the usual choke problem).If I take my darling to the bun, she no longer jumps.Benzinhahn stands on “ON”. Must then wait about 30min and hope that she then starts again.If she does this, she runs perfectly.When I have reached the home yard again,… …….. “Karla” from,………………..trying to start again,………………………………..nix is!!!*smack* 30min everything Roger starts again. Have now already renewed the spark plugs, the reperature set for the “missing……..” petrol tap lie here when I fell yesterday on the subject of underpressure. What can the jewel have? Carburettors were syncronized 1000 km ago. Can anyone give me some useful tips?

Here is a clear tendency to find a specific manufacturer or type of brake lining.Because all opinions differ very much.Some swear on Lucas,EBC or on those of the large motorcycle accessories mail order ( Louis,Polo etc.).Remodelling on ZZR fork including front wheel including six piston brake system.Organic or sintermetal.Original Kawasaki pads have appothetics prices. Despite the fact that the brake linings are not suitable for use in motor bikes, there is no need to change the brake lining on my motorcycle. r confusing variety has to be given the appropriate coverings that should be enough, I say Ottonormalfahrer. I am looking forward to lively tips, tricks or experiences.If I have overlooked here in the forum posts on the topic, I ask you to excuse this. Thank you in advance mfG Klaus

Hello, with my zx10 I wanted to change the oil filter, according to the motto screw loosen complete filter block out new filter on the screw on it and pure the whole, as with other motorcycles usual. According to the workshop manual and an English repair instruction a simple thing. Now it comes: After I have solved the screw now, I can not take the filter block out of one piece, because the large round plate does not pass the exhaust pipe (cross-connection piece, 4in2). H Do you also have such a phenomenon, or am I the only one? I think I will pull the long screw out completely and then I can move the lid sideways. I just hope that I can get it back in with the new filter.