Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello, I have mottled my GPX 600R over the winter (dank full, carburetor run empty) and wanted to start it again after installation of the fully charged battery. Unfortunately, did not jump on and ordered only. A few days later on the start button pressed and the motorcycle jumped immediately. Again a few days later only to org again. The starter turns, but somehow does not ignite it. Then tank decomposed and candles turned out or tested whether there is an ignition spark. This is unfortunately not the case (new candles are still bought). Can it be that the ignition box (all fuses ok) or an ignition coil is defective or what could it still be? Unfortunately, I am quite a layman, especially with regard to the electrical system. I also had problems with the deadman circuit on the side stand from time to time. Can it possibly be related to this? Unfortunately, this is so installed or screwed from the engine, so that I do not use normal tools so much probably the exhaust has to be dismantled or? Looks like that for me anyway. 🙂 Maybe someone has an idea!? Thank you already in advance! Thorsten

Hi guys, I have a 1984 GPz 550 with 65 hp at (approx.) 10500 rpm. Since I have suitcases on it, which only allow up to 130 km/h, and therefore I do not need the maximum speed (196 km/h without a suitcase at all), I think, both camshafts to run around each tooth. I had done the experiment once with a Gpz 305, which has only 1 overhead camshaft to let it run around 1 tooth. Effect: Vmax sank by 20 km/h, but the torque in the lower middle The 550s doesn’t have a lot of suit anyway. So I think it makes sense. It’s possible; in case of doubt, of course, motor with wrench slowly flipping out. Is it legal, do I lose my insurance cover or something like that? Thank you for your opinion Uwe

Hello dear community, I got an old GPZ 1100 B2 a few days ago. It was 32 years under a pergola. The engine can be turned after some try and fresh warm engine oil, the clutch separates also and the gears can be switched. It was probably totally resinous. Now to the problem: Plus pole cable to the starter relay and the fuse box is missing. From the starter relay a cable goes up to shortly before the battery compartment and ends with an eyelet. From there a cable to the + the battery goes with some exits from the plus pole to the fuse box. A branch is provided with a flat cable shoe for the fuse box. But from this cable shoe there is still a cable piece which is equipped with a diode. Someone knows the value of the diode or the cable. Maybe someone knows with electrics of the toll GPZ. I search schematics and rep. instructions to the Kawa as well as spare parts. And seriously, the one or other advice. I hang no ch two pictures of the cable tins on. Are probably for the Canada and US models, because the plug connections do not fit to my electrics. I thank you in advance and wish everyone a lot of health. Achim

Hello, why can you read something about this model? Was that just a small series? No one is driving? Were they so bad that they were re-set directly? Or are the machines completely problem-free so that never even a word about it has to be lost? Since there are only a handful of contributions to the box to be found here in the motor talk, it should not bother anyone to set a link to another forum here. otorrad found, however, the model seems to have been built for over 10 years? That somehow doesn’t fit quite together…?

Hello Yesterday afternoon I drove on a country road ( 70 km ) and suddenly my Kawa took no more gas and just rolled off, but the engine remained on. The red warning light lit on the right, but didn’t flash. I turned off the machine and waited about 5 minutes and was thinking what to do now. Then I started the machine and everything was quite normal. I then continued the drive and everything was as always and the red warning light didn’t go on any more. I arrived at home after about 30 km I took the manual ( The big one for Kawasaki workshop ) and went on troubleshooting. The red warning light always goes on for several errors, if the oil pressure pump is not working properly, the oil filter is clogged, the oil screen is clogged, or there is a fault at the immobilizer. The last oil change with filter was made last year in July. Since then the machine has run 4,000 km. The total power is 7,470 km. a few months following. New pinion, new chain wheel, and new chain for super sportsmen. Sprocket has 2 more teeth, for more speed in the upper gears ( Please no comments about the legality ) Speedometer was installed and calibrated by Kawasaki. 2 weeks ago a USB port was attached to the handlebar for NAVI and was connected to the battery, since between is a separate fuse switched. I think the best should be to bring the flicker once to Kawasaki to the F or do you have an idea ??

Gude got me a z1000 BJ 03 , had had a slipper with the previous owner and exhaust , dent in the tank and disguise on the ass , abm footrest also warped left side . Have they now built up and I drove before times a lap , has everything worked well has had itself switched butter soft , today tried and more like in the first gear and idle went no more , have then bitsel tried to adjust on the pole without success . What can this be ?????? Had still an oilwe Chsel made since the previous owner 10w60 had made by motorex pure and I now 10w40 motul Would be shit if it were the gearbox at once ??

Which hoses come like the carburetor? This is not to be seen in the workshop manual. I didn’t develop it myself and therefore don’t know about it. and sorry, unfortunately, can’t take a picture at the moment. There are at least 3 nipples, 1x central probably for fuel supply and 2x left and right between the two external carburetor units. Will the two outer ones just be connected to each other or will they go back to the tank again? Would I be very happy if the j Can you say something?

Moin municipality, after many years without problems with my thickness, it has now apparently caught me. Brief history: On the way to the Tüv purpose HU I established a leak on the right fork tube. Okay, off to the screwdriver of my trust. Where the thickness was already there, he should also let Tüv go along with it. Up to this time I had installed floating Brakingwave discs with sintered blocks. Had no problem with any test site because of this with the HU. On the Derkra tester, which is too much game in the floaters and therefore did not give a badge…. Since I have made very good experience with wave discs and sintered blocks I ordered again, this time the one from TRW, because the Brakingwave allegedly should be “scrap”. Since the former screwdriver of my trust for the installation of the discs and blocks incl. material had called 750-800€ I decided for the self-installation. Up to now also never had problems with it, no matter if Car or motorcycle. Now my problem: On both sides the inner blocks are no longer released from the disc. The exteriors are already (approx. 0.1mm). Thus the front wheel does not rotate freely. I have now driven about 50Km, but nothing changes. I pushed the pistons in the saddle with a piston reset. Ging Buttersoft. Brake effect is good according to the new discs and blocks. I measured discs. From system rim to outside 13,5mm as it should be. The front wheel s In the pictures you can see clearly that the inner pistons have extended further. When the pistons are pressed back and I measure inside and outside from piston to brake disc I have left 0.1mm and right 0.2mm difference. I would say that the discs are centered in the saddle. I hope someone can help me here, because somehow I just lost confidence in my thickness 🙁 Greetings and a beautiful Sunday still. Andreas

Hello, I’ve been fighting for 4 weeks with the 250 tbsp of a friend who’s been standing in a corner for the last 3 years because she hasn’t been running. I’ve already reported on it in a different thread, and I’ve been able to solve some problems there. Unfortunately, I’m not getting any further at the moment, and I’m trying my luck now in a new thread that specifically describes the current problems……Previously following info; I’ve got the two carburetor(s) in the last 4 weeks All nozzles and cables are free, all trains are OK. The idle needles stand on factory setting 1 3/4 revolutions. Problem 1: If she has stood one night, she does not start. With Choke she generally does not start. Without Choke you notice that she wants to start, but does not get enough fuel. If you increase the idle with the idle screw, it runs on, but then turns very high in idle, so that you have the idle with the screw problem 2: If you pull the clutch during the ride and let it roll, it goes out after 100-150m. In the stand, however, it runs for hours. If you let it roll downhill without pulling the clutch, it doesn’t go out. I’m curious about your ideas….. Greeting Dirk

Servus, I’m new to the forum. I’ve had a GPZ 550, year 1988 for 20 years, original 50000 km! Last year she started jerking from time to time. I couldn’t find a mistake, I pushed it to the age. But for a few weeks now she has stopped suddenly. This can happen after 20 km or 170 km. This happens sometimes if I want to take the pace back, e.g. from 120 to 80 and then accelerate again. I have the impression she gets no fuel. I stay about 3-5 minutes My workshop did the following tests: renew fuel hose with filter, renew vacuum hose, check petrol tap and tank ventilation, check air filter, ignition system, ignition cable, ZK plug, check candles, check all cable connectors to the LiMa and ignition system, check ignition setting, charge system, (charge voltage 13,4V) battery. Has someone from Eu ch had the same problems? How have these been fixed or can anyone give me a tip? Stupid only that I want to go on vacation at the 30th, so very short notice. Greetings and thank you in advance, Walter