Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello, I have the following problem with my Kawasaki Zephyr 550. I opened the machine a few weeks ago from 27 to 50 hp. During this time with 27 hp the problem occurred the first time, at some time on the highway, therefore hearing speeds the machine went out and I had considerable problems getting it back on. It had no fuel in its inflow. Now with 50 hp it no longer goes out, but after some time with a speed of 140km/h and higher the power decreases and I can no longer reach more than 100km/h. I then drive to a side strip/park and wait for a moment, then it runs normal for some time. It almost seems to me as if the speed limiter turns on in the car, which however cannot be due to the speeds of the Kawa, but the stalling is the same. I found that the tank is rusted from the inside, but this problem was fixed, at least once. In addition, I have renewed the fuel filter, where I found rust sets in it. Can it lie somewhere on the carburetor or does anyone else know a good tip??? But please don’t “ask the dealer”, I have already come up with this idea, only that didn’t help me any further and a reperture would be between €150 and €1000, depending on what to do. I would be very grateful if someone had a solution ready, greeting Oliver

Hello guys, yesterday I bought a GPZ 500 and drove home (45 km) because you are top in shot according to VK. two weeks ago during the test drive everything was OK and also yesterday until shortly before home, since I turned up up to approx. 8000 rpm and from there you did not go more than 3000 – 4000 rpm no matter in any gear. I changed candles, filters and oil today in the hope of eliminating the problem. I firmly set the only 2 liters of oil from the 3,4 without filter. he was inside, this small amount can lead to damage to gearbox and engine because since then power loss has also been present a metallic ringing and you run very hard and unevenly. Thank you for pointing out advice and possible cost forecasts.

I wanted to start thinking about saving my money until my 18th birthday and then getting a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R. Or should I now rather get a YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) and then, with experience, get a big machine like a Ninja? Because I’m not sure if the ZX-6R has too much power for the 1st motorcycle. But with the YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) I’m not sure if the power is enough. The ZX-6R would i You’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now to get to know a motorcycle? And if 125s, which Aprillia RS125 or YAMAHA YZF-R 125? If you want to get to know a motorcycle, you’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now?

I changed the motorcycle (84s) years ago for a car, since then it stood around with me. 3 years ago I used to swap the scrapy 4in1 system again for an original one, otherwise actually nothing. It was always like that, when you turn up the petrol tap, runs down out of the carburetor battery fuel. Yesterday the oats bit me once and I removed the carburetor battery (sch… game). All float chambers degraded and found a lot of dirt and also in the third e in fixed float needle valve. I cleaned everything and that looked good as well. When blowing through the central gas hose you notice that all floats close (gasifiers on the head) or open when they are right again. I have installed them again and connected them to an emergency tank, the original one is filled with an undefined mixture of old fuel, rust and water. And again dripping fuel out 🙁 It is not even recognizable from which gas he. The positive, the part runs great, after a few years of service, two of them outside, is the one that jumped directly at the first start attempt. The second problem is that the start button doesn’t work. With the old thing, it’s just a requirement that the gearbox is idle, right? Neutral lamp is on. Does the cable go directly from the handlebar to the starter relay and where does it go long? Thanks for tips…

Hello dear community, I got myself a well-preserved Kawasaki GPZ 550 (1984), which now only stood around for 12 years. In the vehicle note the machine has about 50hp, but I am somehow unsure, maybe one of you has a plan. My uncle and I try to bring the Kawasaki back to the front, however we have some questions: The air valve, which is at the front fork, how much pressure in cash comes in and/or Sticksto ff. Can you inflate it with a standard bicycle air pump? Above the side stand there is a kind of welded fuse, into which the side stand could be plugged, or what is this? I will send you the photos of the air valve on the front fork, the fuse for the side stand as well as a photo of the carburettor. Greeting Nik86

Hello Together I wanted to revive a KZ650SR and did most of it. This machine actually had an engine of the D variant (contact ignition) installed in the original. Then the previous owner of the engine was replaced by the engine of the F variant (contactless ignition). The wire harness was adapted to this. When I picked up the machine, it had power. The engine ran … although … well. Now it’s like that I always have the following problems: The engine runs some Z … then the current is off. Wants to say: nothing is going on anymore. No lamp, no ignition, no glimm lamp … nothing. Safety is okay … before and after the fuse is voltage. I now change the controller .. everything is going on again. So the controller is defective. BUT: After an uncertain time x … the same happens again. The machine has not been driven a meter yet … we only talk about the test operation in the stand. In this way I have heated up 3 controllers so far. The only explanation is that the only I now have an ironing that the controller that is installed with me (it has a cable bundle with 6pin plug, but with only 5 connectors and separately a cable with single connection …see pictures) does not fit the F motor. Therefore, my question: – Does anyone know if the controllers of the motors with contact ignition have different values than the controllers of the motors with contactless ignition? If yes, which please. – Does anyone know if the controllers of the F motors have the same connections as those of the D Mot oren (see pictures)? If no, can someone please send me an image of such a controller for the F motor? Ideally also with type plate/exact designation and connections? – Does anyone know how the harness of the SR (formerly D motor) would have to be converted (concretely) so that the controller fits for the F engine variant? If this is necessary. I hope I can solve the problem. Would the machine not like to give in to the parts recycling. Thanks and VG Tom

Hello everybody, I haven’t been here for a couple of weeks now, because my GPZ 600 runs like clockwork 🙂 Now to my question: I bought a nice GPZ 500 Bj. 88 for my girlfriend on the weekend. This has 50 hp in the appearance, which is probably true. Since she is doing her driver’s license and wants to get the “open” appearance directly, the machine must have at least 60 hp for the test (i.e. the original, open performance of the GPZ 500). Who can tell me how ic h get the GPZ now from 50 hp to 60 hp?? I know! There are a lot of things in the forums. But I have only found the removals from 34 to 60 hp. Is it true that in this case (50 hp to 60 hp) I only have to change the carburettor lids?? Thank you and many greetings, Claus

For all motorcycle brands “open” meeting with large frame program – among others dealer mile – LIVE band – exit – trophies – biker games – DJ – ect. date: Whitsun 2011 Friday 10.06.2011 – Monday 13.06.2011 More information about the meeting:http://www.NRW-Zephyr-Treffen.dehttp://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5240500943_36a4f56e68_z.jpg

Hi, I ran overland with my he5 when she suddenly started spinning at 100. She had a few misfires, a little jerked. She turns up quite normally, but it simply lacks the power. As if she had only half as much PS. Spark plugs are ok. Runs also on both cylinders. Tank is also full. Has someone a advice. Knows someone the problem or something. mfg basti21

Have a problem and just find no solution … I bought the bike a short time ago and brought it back to run after longer standing time I changed candles and oil and cleaned the carburetor She ran perfectly and drove back without any problems to the TÜV and after she is now registered I wanted to do a splash trip Not even 5 min later Fing to oil the machine … Only with running machine the oil drips … So towed and parked today w should I start it again to clean up to see where the oil is running … But now it doesn’t start anymore