Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hi people! The old (GPZ) is stressing again. Had the same problem before about 300km: overflow of gaser 1u.2 dripped and it ran only on three pots. So the gaser bench out, sometimes in the float chambers looks et voila dirt between float valve Gaser1. Today (300km later) full gas on highway, highway descent down and again it ran only on 3 pots + fuel in overflow 1u.2. From where can the crap come? No rust in the tank to see, fuel filter is also installed & clean, Schwi Since these are the same signs as the last time, I assume that there is something between the valve again, but where can it come from? Had an old air filter that crumbled, but that rather gets into the engine and not into the float chamber. I have no idea what’s going on. Please help me! Greet Patrick

Need new brake pads for my ZRX 1200S, which are not yet down, but squeak in front, that the neck hairs stand up. think also that those are already glazed. What am I going to say, original or from the accessories? I have read somewhere that Kawasaki has changed the pads of squeaking because of. Which would you recommend and how high is the price difference to original? Point 2 would be to set the valves, the buck now has just 24 k km down and would therefore be fälli g. However, the motorcycle is 19 years old and I don’t necessarily want to put 800 -1000 euros into the old car. Has someone experienced with it and can tell me if the valves are really so much different that they are outside of tolerance? Yes I know that adjusted valves can lead to engine damage. But my motorcycle is always driven sensibly warm and never turned out. My Z1000J did the grapple at the time because probably someone has done crap at the time. Of course, you can’t prove it afterwards and was at the Kawa dealer who messed up that. So, of course, I’ve got some muffin. Are there only fussers on the road these days and I don’t have the skills to work for them. A colleague told me that nothing had to be done with his Yamaha Xj 900 after 60k km.

Servus with each other, I signed up here in the forum, because I’m starting to despair. I’m going to pick up a little bit further and describe how my problem started: About a year ago it started that my KLX warm no longer starts. Cold, however, still perfectly with Choke. On demand in a KLX group I then set the valves and the problem was fixed for a short time. -> I thought that the valve play is too small and thus a valve in the warm At the end of the season, however, the problem came again, so set valves again. Outlet side was a bit too small but not a big difference. Unfortunately, the expected result stayed out now and it still did not start warm. However, rolling up worked. I got a tip to bridge the motorcycle, see that warm starts perfectly. -> 3 new batteries tried out, however, did not bring any success, meanwhile it starts I charged all batteries before installation. Voltage usually drops to about 10-10,5V when starting. Charging current has the Kawa in the normal range. In addition, I have already changed the ignition coil and spark plug. I have already checked connections between starter and battery. I have already found several forum contributions of this kind, but none of them has led to a successful result with feedback. Would be great if someone could help me.

So let’s hear if biking is really such an expensive hobby! I’ll start with: 2600,- € Fall ZX-10R (only fairing parts)

Hello dear people, I did not find any mail exactly to my problem. I wanted to get my ZX7R Bj. `96 out of hibernation last week, unfortunately it did not jump on. Instead, it is still drunk to me. Since I, a friend of mine, changed the spark plugs only 2-3 weeks ago, I would exclude these times. I let the carburettor run empty in the last fall, therefore I can not imagine that it is clogged. The spark plugs have I changed, since I had always had problems with that last year, when it came cold out of the garage, half an hour in the sun and it went on wonderfully. The spark plugs also looked really bad. Now to the battery, not the best anymore, although only a year old, but since it shrugged this morning briefly I would say, it might not be the battery either. I also had to warm them up with the (not laugh please) hair dryer so that they came. During the se I didn’t know where it came from. In another post I read that you should let the swimming chamber run empty. Where do I find the screw exactly? Bzw. is that possible without building the motorcycle apart? I hope someone can help me, since I don’t even come to the workshop……always thank you in advance. Greeting Sebastian P.s. It’s embarrassing to me, but I can’t help myself. someone has to say how the gas tap has to stand to stand on? Since it smelled like gasoline last week I would say he’s open, but maybe he’s on reserve

Hello everybody, I want to sell my Ninja, she only stands around and that doesn’t make her any better. Since I barely drove last year and I didn’t let the carburetor run empty at the end of the season, she doesn’t start anymore. So I start from the carburetor. Now I also need new tires and TÜV. At the next two-wheeler workshop you have estimated for everything together up to 800 euros. Do you keep this for realistic or overpriced? Here is a list: Collection – 30 Euro Verga serreinigung – 300 Euro New tyres – 350 Euro TÜV – 80 Euro This was only a prior assessment of the workshop without having seen the machine. I am irritated by the high price for carburettor cleaning. Had expected something with 100 Euro. Are 300 Euro too much or in the frame? My motorcycle: Kawasaki Ninja ZX7r Year of construction: 2000 Kilometer: 25300 Original condition Greetings John

Hello, I promised a friend once here to ask what is with his machine. Were 14 days ago in South Tyrol to enjoy curves and passes. Then on the 2nd day up the Gaviapass at warm 25-30° air temperature, when it suddenly popped loudly at the ZX9R during the ride and a steam cloud ascended – cooler hose burst…. End of the beautiful day tour. Machine stopped and the next day replaced. From then on forced breaks were inserted, because again and again vo The actual question, can it be that the cooler cover is defective, it should actually open at overpressure or is it probably that the cooler hose was already porous? Or did Kawa install a system error here, the machine was built for the race track, less for alpine tours with relatively high load at low speeds with little wind (cooling)?? In my opinion, this should not happen anyway.

hello together… about 4 weeks ago I got a brand-new z800. the moped drives really well. there’s nothing to complain about. However, I have “sometimes” the problem that I can’t switch down anymore. And that’s…^^ if I roll to the traffic lights in the 6th gear and then be, say, 40 or 35 km/h, try to switch to the 5th gear and so on, nothing does. I step into the empty in the best sense of the word when I’ve come to the stand the bulge can’t be switched. For the first time 2 minutes busy switching into another way while the cars are already hopping on me. however, that only sometimes does it. Furthermore, I still think that if I in the first course roll, something grinds (scratching – grinding noise). but there also not always. the statement from the dealer was that she has to be driven in. that certainly can not be. last year have bought a brand new er6n for my wife and the purring. will be again on Monday at the H ändler pass by and complain to me. so if someone knows something or the problem knows, give off a suitable commi. because a dealer can tell a lot if the day is long… mfg wolfi

Here I have an EL 250 B (1992), which has an increase in performance to 34 HP. Since in 1996 already oversized pistons were installed and the power increased by inserting 2 sleeves into the carburettor underpressure pistons.Now the carburettors have to be overhauled, my Kawafritze said that there would have to be new nozzles inside.Are there still the original Kawa nozzles or have been installed by the glue.Increasing also other nozzles. Can I possibly edit the built-in nozzles, thought there so on Reibale or do they have to be exchanged for Xkm in general? Thank you and goodbye Greetings The Chicken

My aged ZZR causes me some grief, actually I just wanted to lift the tank to get to the battery pole, but unfortunately the old petrol hose is torn down directly on the tap. Is probably already a little older the hose. Just cut off straight and again I don’t trust myself. then there is even less space when lifting the tank… Well the question, can you just change it? Or do you have to disassemble half the moped to get there first? If it were easy, which slug also do I have to order? is the meterware or something special? Greeting Kaiser