Category: Kawasaki Forum

Hello, bin Neu hier .Perhaps one can help me and ask for your help. My Kawasaki Z250 C no longer starts after the winter break. Had the battery removed before the winter and now installed again, but the starter only ratters although the battery has enough power. I think it’s not due to the battery, but what can it be ? Greetings O.A.

I need a new headlight, with me the light angle (height and side adjustment can no longer be adjusted). Would you like to ask if the ones from the GPZ 600 and from the GPX 750 fit? Will buy a cheap one in the next months (until August) at Ebay. Then the TÜV is due. PS: I also have to change the needle bearings on the swing (is that difficult?). Would the machine like to drive until the end of next year to get me a 1000er(R1 or similar), n until then I want 500€ together so it becomes something reasonable. gruss Klinky

Servus people, I drive a Zr7 Bj 1999, in possession since September 2010. – 2011 the valve was set at 36.000km. Everything is fine – in mid 2012 I had the valve set at about 49,000km, in the workshop these “spacers” (or plates) were replaced/changed… however. Anyway, I have the feeling that the valves are very clattering, especially on the left. I imagine that it was not like that before (or quite before when buying). You can hear correctly, I don’t miss oil, but it’s old. Must be changed. Whether it’s because of it? The workshop type said it’s normal, because the valves now have a “game”. But the clacking is quite strong… Is that more normal or should I worry about it? greetings and a nice start to the season I wish all PS: I bought the machine with 24,000km, now there are 51,000km druff

Moin, the Kawa from my girlfriend is unfortunately God’s raced through the AU and we don’t really know any more at the moment. The CO value in the increased stand gas was too high. The motorcycle has an injection and therefore offers rather little adjustment possibilities. We already got a new old Lambda probe, put a new air filter on it and check again everything that can be tested as a private person. The motorcycle currently has the original exhaust on it, but when buying was an MSR Auspu ff grown without a cat. Supposedly the car was somehow HU/AU, even if we had neither an ABE, nor anything else when buying it. And according to the Internet, Mopeds needed a cat for a long time…. and you can’t just build an exhaust without a cat on it and still have the appropriate AU values, right? Now I wanted to ask what you could look/do? A completely new exhaust would probably be a useful extension, just Wouldn’t be worth it anymore with the car… and the cat can’t be through after just 9 years and just 25,000km, right? Besides, we don’t know how long the OG exhaust was in the corner. Maybe someone can help me! Thanks already!

Hello this summer my Z1000 went out about 6 times during the ride, always in rolling mode, you want to give gas you notice that the machine is off. Ignition is still on. Turn off ignition and turn on again, then wait briefly and start again. No matter whether in the stand or while rolling. During the ride “roll on” does not go, the ride continues only after restart. After that it drives as if nothing had been done. With long rides the intervals become shorter. If it is cooler can I don’t have a kink in the hose and I don’t have a coded plug either. Tap on the control unit, I’m looking for a company that can repair testing and possibly if something is broken.

So to my problem Have a Kawasaki ZZR600 standing in my garage which has not been operating since last year. My landlord gave me this machine because he bought an R6. The problem is that the machine does not start. It is constantly on the org but it simply does not want to jump on. However, if I “put” petrol into the intake tract and the starter turns the machine up (6000U/min) – so again switched off because the engine is cold. I have fol gendes done on the machine: – The petrol line which leads to the carburettor checked–OK – vacuum line to the tank checked–OK – carburettor removed and these individually checked (carburettor needles & floats) are in order–OK – spark plugs replaced and when I’m already doing the ignition coils tested–OK – compression checked–OK . Oil changed–Check But I just can’t get the engine on. The starter turns and turns neither false ignition nor anything else happens : /. Today I pushed up and down the carburettor membrane from jux times and noticed that one (cylinder 2) does not build up “pressure”. So I removed and see a hole :/ But can it be that a membrane makes the machine do not make a mux? Has someone made the same experience and can help me =) I am technically gifted but I don’t want to take the engine apart now =)

Hey guys, I’m just making myself a huge head.. and I don’t even know if it’s right. I set the valves on my ZX10 2006. Can do that without any problems and I know myself too. I reinstalled the camshafts on OT marking all great. Spanners in, then something with the hand turned the motor through, spanners out and it must have happened. Since I didn’t fix the chain with the hand it is while spanning (spanner moves out) and at the same time spin out skipped around several teeth. I didn’t notice this at first, so I turned the motor by hand and suddenly a resistance came where I didn’t get any further and I stopped directly, so I didn’t try to get over it with force. I knew directly what was wrong. I expanded everything again and now everything fits. My question however: I think the inlet valves touched the piston at the resistance. Now I am totally afraid that I bent the valves e. My mind tells me that you can’t push valves crooked only by turning your hand. And how did I say that when I didn’t get anywhere, I stopped right away. Do you think it’s possible to press the valves only by turning their hand crimped? Bzw. if you don’t even press them with force.

Hello, I’ve been a proud owner of a Z800(e) for a year now. However, I would like to be on the road from this year with a short license plate holder and LED turn signals. I already read a few topics here in the forum about the LED turn signal, but I just want to make sure that I got it right again. I chose this license plate holder at Louis.de. In addition, these LED turn signal for front and rear. If I understood all the posts right now the original relay can not work with 4 LED indicators. As far as so good. I need either resistors or a suitable new relay for this. However, the linked one by Louis does not support a warning flashing light system according to the product description. However, this one is present with me. Here in the forum a user linked to this relay (independent of load). Is this correct? Furthermore, the question arises to me what the LED indicators have for a plug. or are these usually only two strands coming from the flasher. Here are two photos of the previous plugs / sockets. And another question, where can I find the relay? In the rear or somewhere under the tank? Thank you for your help! Greeting Jonny

Hello together, I’ve been driving a Honda CBR500R with 48hp for about 2 years (and about 22,000km). Now that I finally got my open driver’s license, I’m looking for something with more power, sound and emotions The Kawa Z800 would satisfy all my wishes at first sight and is at the moment quite high on my wish list. My only concern is in the rideability and that the Z800 might overburden me as… well advanced beginner. my questions to you: How does the high weight of the Z800 behave, for example, in tight curves? How do you estimate the Z800 from the rideability compared to something as light as a Ninja 636 / cbr600rr? All in all, just leave your opinion on the Z800 in combination with a sporty driver with 2 years of driving experience Thank you already to all in advance

Hello guys. Can someone tell me something about the Z 1300. I was offered such a part from a collector’s resolution. The net doesn’t give much except driving reports. There’s only something of sow heavy, little slanting freedom and that it sucks like a hole. But the six-cylinder must be the scratcher. And that counts for me. I’m mainly concerned with spare parts supply, tyre availability and the stability of the machine. Is the last carburettor model, A4, I think. nk in advance