Category: Kawasaki Forum

Good morning, I ride my motorcycle all year long, as long as the weather permits. The problem is, if the Kawa is outside at temperatures below 5°C, the oil becomes so thickly liquid that my E-starter comes to its limits. The pistons move only very tediously in the cylinder and it does not get enough turns to start. even pushing is extremely difficult with 2 men. Once the engine has run a few minutes it also immediately starts again. (oil gets warm and thinner) and runs much easier when pushing. Even in the empty run you notice an increased resistance in the engine. Battery about 1 year old, valves set, carburettors are clean, no false air, oil change about 6 months ago, Choke works, spark plug about 6 months old. Temporary solution is a splasher start pilot, then it ignites once and runs independently. Oil: mineral oil base 10W40 Polo brand Which oils are better (thin liquid) for the Wint He? Is the brand suitable for the Kawa gpz 600 r? At the last oil change the oil was still in good condition (no water or excessive chips) Greeting

Hello together!!! I’ve been working on KLX 250 engines for two years and have now arrived at 42hp. I’m starting to think about the ideas and I’m looking for people with whom I can exchange ideas about this machine…… Thank you!! Here are some pictures that are supposed to give an impression of what I’m doing 🙂

Hello Kawafriends, so after otherwise everything runs the starter again problems. The problem is if the motorcycle is standing a few days and is cold, it jumps with the starter without problems, only after it had run a little about 2 minutes, the starter does not spin the engine anymore. I only hear loud rattles as if teeth would rub over each other. Have now installed a freewheel repair kit,and two different starter tries but still no difference. could that still be now ?? Can it really be due to the starter they are of the 650 GT ??

Hello – Andreas my name I currently have a Kawa GPZ 750 UT and have to do a few things to measure valve play – control chain spanning and even synchronizing the carburetor. If I have asked in the course and I have found nothing suitable here in the forum, I would like to ask the questions here in this topic below. My 1 question refers to the valve play set. I have the instruction for my bike and there is written “Crankshaft turn on T14”, gu t , I thought there will be T14 and 1 line that must stand with the fixed line in curfew. The T14 can be seen, however, T14 has 3 strokes .. I took the line, which stands exactly opposite of T, to measure. However, I am unsure :/ In the appendix is the instruction and the picture of the adjusting plate to see My 2 question My father brings me a compression meter To question how much pressure in bar the cylinders must show I found this here in the forum “The GPZ has a tolerance of 7.5 – 11.8 bar, with a maximum of 1 bar deviation over all 4 cylinders. The deviations you have are in the tolerance range, but are only all too low.” Who still signs this statement? Greeting

Moin people, I bought last year a Kawasaki KX 250 F where the TÜV expired. I finished it so far but now I have the problem that a “theft protection” is not registered. The Kawa has no handlebar lock, I have only retrofitted an ignition lock. I then talked with 2 TÜV examiners and both meant that e.g. a brake disc lock under 21. must be entered and this is only done by the TÜV examiner who made the 21ers at the Mopeze My question is now, is it true what the two have said or is there another possibility and how can I look who or where the 21s has been made? I only know that the Kawa got a road registration right after the purchase, so 2004 and thus also a couple times came through the TÜV

Moin moin, I’ve been driving my “new” GPZ500S EX500D for a few weeks. I’m a total beginner and unfortunately I don’t know so much about any support. It usually only starts with a full choke in the cold winter weather between the 1-3 try. Choke I could not really take out, because otherwise she was at the lower 1.X rotation range and went out powerfully or simply. Keep her mostly in the 2 range with the Choke setting. The last times, w o I drove you, you needed a lot of gas to drive you and not strangle you, somehow it takes you worse – power is weaker. Sometimes or especially if I then go up with the speed, the GPZ starts to twitch (quasi short power surges forward). Occasionally, it has had the “full power” again and you didn’t twitch any more. In addition, there was a small loss of liquid (looked like petrol), it dripped at the start, where the seal v from the exhaust was. Condensation water? Everything was nice and good, she was still driving and I didn’t think anything about it because I thought it was the weather. But now to the real problem: I drove the GPZ with Sozius in the back, short stop after about 4km. Until then everything really jumped well. Only the gas took on again very weaker. When I was then 1km danger the speed went down and the motorcycle went off on the road in driving (despite higher speed). Try to start and failed: When I turned the Choke up again, she jumped on, the speed either went up completely or the motorcycle went out immediately after a short time. After about 1-2h where I put it off and pushed it away started the machine and speed was relatively stable for 5s and then the machine went down again with the speed and went out. Is it on the carburetor or what else could be the cause? Would I be very pleased about any information. MfG Philipp

Hello, I bought a gt550 from 1986, was then my first motorcycle, and wanted to get back in with it… I wanted to start the first tour, but while trying to leave the bike on, smoke rose below the battery. The roaring noise didn’t leave anything to guess. So far I have no idea where this came from. I removed the side panels, but can’t see anything obvious there. I’m thinking about whether I can now re-enter the battery. ue, to almost live see what exactly smears. Can I do that? Or should I leave it better? Frustrated greetings Astrid

Good morning dear Kawasaki friends, I have been playing the motorcycle driver’s license and a suitable machine for a long time. As this is supposed to be a well thought-out investment I am currently looking for a suitable machine and I got stuck at the ER-6n, as it immediately addressed me visually and should be particularly suitable for beginners. Now I want to have the new machine throttled on acquisition and now my questions: What types of thrushes are there? ? Do I lose a lot of acceleration as a result of the throttle? Can the throttle be removed after 2 years without any problems? I heard that it can come to late episodes if one drives a throttled machine again “open”. What is there to consider to avoid possible late episodes? Thank you for your time and a nice day I wish you. Sincerely, fl590

Hi guys, I knew before I bought my first bike not quite what I should keep from the service intervals and how much I drive at the end. 6000 Km at my Z900 is clearly less than with other vehicles or am I wrong? What do they want to check through after 6000 Km if the intervals for other vehicles are only 12000 or 15000 Km and you know what the costs are? If the costs vary locally, I come from Stuttgar t. Thank you and LG

Good day to you all. As described above in the topic I have problems with my Kawasaki and don’t know any more. Out of the hose from the KWG ventilation engine oil comes out and that not very little and the engine oil foams easily. It is definitely not too much oil on it and the piston and cylinder have come new. I now ask myself the question where the oil comes from have had the cylinder down twice because I thought vllt a piston ring is not right but that was not the fa ll. Can’t say if everything was fine before the piston change because I bought the machine like this already. Has someone had something like this before or can you give me tips on what else it could be? MFG Basti.