Category: Yamaha Forum

Left hand for greetings, I have bought a Yamaha XS 400 Bj 80. This has already been converted to a Cafe Racer. Since I am very new in the matter Cafe Racer and still have a lot to learn, I would like to ask you if you could call me some pages where you can buy spare parts as well as other beautiful conversion parts. I want to disassemble my little ones in winter and repaint them etc. So it would also fit to make them even prettier. The charm of the 80’s in Verbi nd with modern style parts. I thank you and wish you all good driving greetings Mayle

Hello, I’m thinking about whether I ran on my XJ 900s (EZ 2002, approx. 48 TKM) which should be done on the chassis. Variant 1: Exchange the fork springs for progressive (although the fork is still tight, but I think that the oil is already 22 years in it and on occasion you can change the fork springs directly). The extra costs of the springs are limited. Variant 2: Springleg: here too the original springleg is installed, but good 500 EUR (+ x, if it is to become a Wilbers or similar) i Is this worth a lot? Is the investment worth it? Variant 3: first change fork springs and then keep looking … I’m looking forward to your feedback!

Hello together! I doubt slowly but surely! I have ne Yamaha V-MAX 1200 EN JG 89. For some time now I have the following problems. Problem: 1. Misignitions 2. Ruckelt/Stuttert 2. Power loss 3. No more current I have: 1. Gasifier cleaned and seals replaced 2. Gasoline filter replaced 3. Charger replaced 4. Spark plug replaced 5. Iridium spark plugs mounted 6. New battery 7. New fuses mounted 8. Ignition coil is controlled and ok! 9. Quetschverbidung soldered et It seems that it’s something electrical! When I was ready to start again after all this everything went perfect at first! My baby ran brutally afterwards and afterwards the problems started again. I think about replacing the complete harness and replacing each single cable with new ones. Have replaced the battery with a new one and the problem still exists. I have misignitions while driving and that especially in the cold condition. As soon as the V-MAX is warm are the misignitions And again she left me in spite of new battery etc. Can you/someone help me?! I despair slowly but surely! Friendly greeting Donni88

Hello together, it goes on with the construction site FS1-DX. I tried today to check the oil pump by removing the hose that goes to the carburetor and several times a kick starter. It did not come a drop from the oil pipe. The oil pipe from the oil tank to the oil pump is free, that runs out continuously some oil. Does anyone have an idea what might be defective on the oil pump? Greetings 6for9

Hello, I’m new here in the forum and also tried to find something on my topic, but I didn’t really find it. Maybe someone can help me. I drove on my Yamaha a partial synthetic oil, which had to follow a slide of the clutch. So the first tip was pure mineral oil rubbing disks/steel intermediate discs with acetone clean. That hadn’t worked out still a slide. Then new friction disks ordered TRW (steel discs had remained Mineral oil on it. but it still slips. Where is the error. It has run only 19000km. For your tips or suggestions I would be very grateful. P.S. Oil filter was changed each time.

HAllo I have the 14.1hp strong 125 motor YP125R (Euro3) in my scooter. Since the day before yesterday it does not take any gas. (he “swallows” himself). Under full load it then accelerates again normally. The engine starts 1A (cold start enrichment if possible) the first meters he drives super (probably because of the cold start enrichment) then, after approx. 150 -250 meters begins the “bocking” After approx. 3 minutes drive it runs quite normal as if nothing had been. or gets warm only after approx.5 minutes of full load drive, or at very slow speeds (Thermostat doesn’t close properly?) – occasional ignition oscillations (only noticeable in idle mode -> then it goes off) what was done: – oil change – spark plug changed – piston cylinder changed what did I test: – intake air temperature sensor (-> provides different values at different temperatures: from 2kOhm at 20°C to 22kOhm at -20°C) – throttle valve potentiometer (-> > con 800Ohm to 3,1kOhm continuous) Additional air slide: regulates perfectly Has such an error been known/already occurred? Theories: 1) Thermostat does not seal, control unit leans too early -> jerks in warm running phase 2.) Lambda probe defective -> false values in cold condition –> control unit leans the mixture from 3.) temperature sensor on the therostat defective Does anyone know the resistance values??? I don’t think the control times are wrong. The engine runs top when it’s warm t and consumes exactly as much as it used before the cylinder was replaced. I had a piston eater due to a defective thermostat. Does anyone have an idea?

Good evening, dear people, I haven’t been on forums for years… it’s kind of funny 🙂 I greet you very warmly and ask for your advice. I bought my Yamaha XJ 600 S/N Div. 1994 (4LX) in January and screwed it ready to go in May. I carried out the inspection in my garage and the TÜV could pass it. However, from the beginning I had difficulty bringing it to the start the first time. In May it was possible for me to do the inspection in my garage. I tried to start the bike and see, it was running from there. In June, however, my Yamaha was drunk in the middle of the ride. I thought it was because I did not manage to switch to reserve in time; however, I then found out at the tank – who loves his motorcycle, who pushes! – that the tank was relatively full. I could only refuel about 2-3 liters with a tank capacity of about 13-15 liters. Al My solutions so far were: – unscrew and clean carburettors – replace or clean fuel hoses – replace fuel pump – test on vacuum – test spark plugs or replace – replace fuel filter Since the inspection was relatively fresh, the wear parts were all clean; however, they were still replaced. My motorcycle still doesn’t start so far and I’m slowly finished with my Latin. That’s why I drive mic h now on various forums and looking for hobby crafts or experts who can deal with this problem better than me. I thank you very much for your feedback! See you later. 🙂 Best regards

I bought exactly one month ago a MT07 2019 with 25000km from a dealer. I waited for more than 3 weeks for the delivery, which should actually only take a week, but well I got the machine. After a week a rattle occurred at once, I looked at the chain and was of the opinion it would be much too loose. I drove to the dealer and he meant that is not the case. I drove with the chain in this condition and d As rattle/noise got stronger and stronger and when measuring the chain tension independently, I noticed that it was too loose. I then returned to the dealer a few days after the first visit, another employee from the workshop looked at the chain and thought it was too loose. So I get two different answers from the same workshop for the same problem! The employee pulled 20 euros out of my pocket for clamping the chain and d After another 2 weeks the chain was too loose again, she wanted to tension herself this time and I noticed that it is different. According to the manual, the game should have no more than 5mm difference, with my chain it is 8-9mm. The chain set is through, at 25000km it should have been still fully in order, and 2000km later it seems completely worn out. I am to the dealer and he meant I buy the chain for 180 euros, and the cultivation for m And I’m afraid that my bike bearings are over too, they crackle so funny when the wheels are slightly turned. I went to the gym today, and on the way home I noticed that my brakes don’t work properly. With a full brake, the brakes push my foot and my hand out again, so it jerks and the bike gets super unstable. I despair a little bit just now. I thought I’d rather buy a bike. Machine at the dealer’s, he doesn’t pull the money out of my pocket. And then something like that happens, I definitely leave the machine and call the dealer tomorrow. But what’s the legal situation for me? Do I have to pay for any of it or do I have to take care of it and cover the costs?

Hello, I recently fell in love with a DT250 of the series 512. I find the part so pretty that I have serious interest in getting a bike like this. So far I am on the road with two motorcycles from Royal Enfield. I also find the first 3 series of the DT very handsome. What about the spare parts supply? Is there an online shop or something like that? Are the different series from the engine identical? I found a 512 which I like well. However, the previous owner can hardly say anything about the condition, would have driven only 2-3x in the last years. Since I don’t have time for a overhaul, I rather look for something that gives me long joy without repair jams. Think you can hardly say from a distance how it stands around the bike, depends on how much that has been heated through the terrain… What is a good price for condition 2? VG Lennart

Hello, I have a Yamaha XJ600S Diversion. 4 cylinder engine which is very smooth or should be. It is the version of 1997 with throttling to 48hp by suction nozzle. I changed oil and spark plugs myself and then I was with the machine in the workshop –> was made the following: 1.) Valve play set (was my wish because the manufacturer recommended this at 36.000km according to maintenance plan and the machine already has about 35,000km on it, last maintenance was at 6000km) 2.) Valve end (the old one would have been brittle says the workshop) 3.) Carburettor set (according to the workshop necessary because the engine would have run on only 3 cylinders before) 4.) Intake nozzles replaced 5.) Air filter changed I paid for everything together 300€ including material and taxes. What annoyed me is that the workshop did not point out that there are also unrestricted intake nozzles and that the throttling takes place at all through the intake nozzle. So wu I would have expected from an expert (workshop) that he would explain it to the layman (customer = me) and not just leave it in the rain. So the workshop is something “maulfaul”. But my big problem is: Since I was in the workshop the machine vibrates very strongly, at about 4000 revolutions it starts strongly and at 6,000 revolutions it is particularly crazily. The rearview mirrors now show everything distorted from approx. 100 kmh because of the vibrations and my hand is almost deaf after an hour. Yesterday I drove 2 hours and this morning my hand is still deaf!! That’s not normal? I have the feeling that my fingers are dying off if I drive with it even longer… Something is really lazy. Does it have to do with what the workshop has done up there? Should I post what values have set during the valve game? I still have the note. It seems “Spanish” to me. Thank you! Greetings,