Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello R6 municipality, I have a problem with my Yamaha R6 Rj05. I recently changed the chain including chain wheel. Chain wreath should also be changed, but it is welded. I left the old one simply before I break the swing and everything around, it also looks OK. My problem is, however, that the chain wheel is a little eating, is not bad but it is eating a little left <->right. I hope you can see this in the video. What makes me worry more is the Sch the chain. Can it be that the chain strikes so when the protective seal (plastic part on the swing where the chain rolls over) is worn off from the old chain. The old chain was unevenly elongated and therefore it has repeatedly hit the seal and the seal now looks like it is milled with a milling machine from above. Can it be normal when the motorad is up? When driving the situation is better in my opinion. Please for help! The groove bearing where the socket comes in is also new, it was broken. Video:Video Thank you in advance Lg dulevw

Hello! After my father lost the intress on the motorcycle 30 years ago and so the machine wandered into the cellar I now stand in front of the vehicle and am easily restored. Now the following problem has occurred: It is not possible for me to find the error why I do not get a spark. I have already checked the following: spark plug, spark plug plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil and from the black box I assume that it works. If I step the kicker ha b i briefly a low voltage on the multimeter, or it does in any case what. It is a CDI ignition (where the capacitor is located) There can be no wear due to movement of the machine because the machine has just 4000 km on the tacho. So my question: What can it be that I don’t get an ignition spark or what can I still measure so that I can check / exclude error sources.

Hello together, I hope you can help me. I’m getting my DT125 back in shape after 6 years and now I have the following problem. If I have assembled everything correctly at the brake, fill in brake fluid Dot 4 and start pumping the liquid in the container will simply not less. The brake pump does not pump. I then disassembled it and also saw that it was no longer top in shot. So bought a used new one and tested it again before assembly. T. Liquid in and pumped. Nothing came up. Then this one also disassembled, everything looked good. Reassembled and assembled. At first came when pumping bubbles, but brake fluid didn’t come out. What could that be? I’m really stunned. Pumping does the new one. You heard it even before brake fluid was in there.

Hello dear forum, I have been fighting with occasional starting problems of my R1 for some time now and hopefully have circled the error on the starter now. But I would like to have confirmed this by myself again roughly before I get one out of the bay! Not that it comes to something else afterwards…. I know that a remote diagnosis is always a bit difficult but I hope the one or the other can say something about it…. The following error picture appears occasionally…… Try to start the R1 – it either blows through as if the battery was empty (at first at creep current but the battery is fully charged) you can then press the start button several times until only the relay claps and the yellow light lights up in the display or – There is no turning of the starter and only the yellow lamp lights up in the display. or – In about 70% of the cases it starts quite normally as it should, that does not make it better of course…. Now I thought that it is the starter, possibly the free run of the clamps, so gear in, moped with inserted gear once shortly before and back, gear out again and see there the little jumps problemlessly. I therefore suspect the starter having a blow (possibly the free run??), now it is extremely uncool not to be able to rely on his moped, therefore I would like to replace the starter. Since I am not so 100% sure if I have circled the error correctly I hope you can h Is it possible that I can first expand the starter and test it?? So not only that it turns when I connect it to power but possibly also the free run… Thanks for your efforts and comes well into the season and above all comes home safely again and again!!!! Torben

Hello, maybe someone has some advice? Could not start 3 times, every time starting aid over the starter (current “injected” with a screwdriver). Suspected old battery. Switched. Since the battery is preloaded, it went well several times. 2 weeks had standing (weather…) and again. Battery almost dead. Sounds like a leak current, doesn’t it? The alternator seems to be iO, everything runs, light bright, flickering nothing. Forcibly, that the battery is charged (direct connection alternator ~ battery) or is there another extra component that you have to check? Parked also not on (grip heating, light, ….) During the ride also the handle heating is not used. If it should be a leak current, how do you find such a thing? Thanks in advance!

So you can’t throttle to 48 hp, because the yamaha doesn’t weigh 175kg, but only 166. According to StVO you have to meet the condition 0.2Kw per kg with the A2 driver’s license. Therefore you can throttle a 166 kg yamaha to 33.2 KW (who can’t understand this just 0.2 times 166 rakes already you have the permissible kW), that is 45,something PS. Since I don’t want to lower the Yamaha to 34 ps, since this is only unnecessary missing hp, I wonder if it’s possible the Yamaha to 45 hp (33 kW) Mfg Zaypix

Hi, As described above, I have both in the narrow selection. Z650 I drove extensively. Like both very well. Performance-wise both are also very close to each other. The MT has a 180 tire at the rear and therefore wider than the one from Kawa. Does someone know each other with both machines and can help me with my decision? Drive currently the TDM but that doesn’t last forever. And the MT seems to be a little higher like the Z650. I find both qualitatively really good so please ni cht argue, however, needs a decision support. New or 1-3 years motorcycles in any case come into question with ABS. Thanks already for the help!

Moin, I’m a fresh owner of a yamaha xte 600 from the year 97 I always start it in the choke, and let it run warm. Depending on how much time I have, I’ll just drive away sooner or later. For this reason, I wanted to know if the operating temperature plays an important role. So if it’s bad for the motorcycle to speed it up directly to 100kmh at 30 degrees. Or if it doesn’t matter. How about short-circuiting. Should you always decide on a certain I’d be happy if someone would answer the very simple question for you. They have to be put to you too. I’d love to say hello to Frederik.

Hello together, I’m just getting my old DT 125 RE back in shape and now I have a problem at the start. She stood for 6-7 years and after I changed all the liquids, I tried to start it. It was clear that the battery was flat after the time so it was called push on. I then pushed her about 20 times with us a small hill and at some point she then jumped on. Uhh everything good! The following days I pushed her through again and again Now I changed the battery because it was 11 years old. The battery was fully charged. Now I tried to start it via the E-starter, but it doesn’t start. The starter turns, but it doesn’t work. If I roll it a bit and let the clutch come when the gear is in place, it is immediately on. What could that be? I would have the idea now that the engine has too little compression and the starter does not manage to start it. I wouldn’t think of anything else right now. It just doesn’t matter that she’s drunk because of too much fuel, but he’s supposed to be gone when he gets started and then it should work.

Servus people I have the following problem for 2 days, when I wanted to start driving my r6 (rj03-99 year of construction) went out directly after a few meters, then you went on again and then only push through half-lived, the whole then no matter how much gas I gave only in the range of 1000- 1500 revolutions. I then dismantled everything, installed new spark plugs and assembled again, then it went on the test short quite normal. everything again and the same problem until the Bat I tried it again yesterday and it was like that again, start and it went, I changed and wanted to turn a round and it remained hanging again at 1500 revolutions. I then dismantled the carburettor and completely cleaned ( 3 out of 4 of these brass nozzles around carburettors were almost completely too) I put everything back together this morning and then had the stand gas too high, when it went on everything wonderful she turned only directly up to 6000, again out of the and the end of the song is that you didn’t want to go over 1500 again. I almost did it like that (with a hand permanently brought on the gas to 80°C but it didn’t improve anything. so if I don’t give a gas you go out, if I give full gas happens nothing, the rope doesn’t hang and has nothing to do with the shock was not jammed or anything else. what do you mean the whole thing is ? is somehow the fuel pump down or maybe the fumes, which other res doesn’t really come to mind anymore. have the little one for about a month, she has something about 47 K on the tacho and I drove with her now to the 850 km without any problems. am grateful for all tips and tricks.