Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello together Today I was confirmed by the breakdown service, that the petrol pump of my YBR 125 Custom has made me limp. So then drove to my garage of trust and then I asked what it should cost. The answer was a real shock and I can’t quite believe it. For the pump alone, the 500 Swiss francs (i.e. 430 euros)!! For me this sounds totally overpriced. After some research on the internet I found spare parts, which a In addition, this seems to be a well-known mistake. But my mechanic says that there is nothing to do and Yamaha wouldn’t take over it and that’s not so well known. Can someone help me out with a few facts? Should I contact Yamaha directly? And can it be that a spare part costs so much more just because it’s from Yamaha? I’m a bit perplexed just now because I bought the motorcycle in 2013 and find that it can’t be that after 5 years of racing, it’s not possible to buy a motorcycle. The pump is already over, although it was driven only in the summer and in the winter stood nicely in a garage.

Hello motorcycle friends, on the housing (the housing is made of cast iron. the screws are made of anodized steel) of my clutch switch is the screws depleted and so I took the drill and wanted to drill the screws out. the screws is however so hard that I can barely get one mm further. the hole is now about 3-4 mm deep. then I set a left turner and tried to turn the screws out but the grips at all. I use hss drills from the building house. the best loud salesman. the drills break off after the row. I cool them and also tried to try out different strengths but nothing goes on. I thought about getting titanium drills and drilling a hole at least as deep as that the left-hand turner takes hold. slowly the ideas go out, maybe you have a refined idea? by the way, I have attached a picture. at the bottom right is the exhausted hole to see! mfg jan

Hi guys, I hope I get some suggestions. For some time now I’ve noticed on my box that the gear change is rough and loud, even during the ride. Know me technically quite well and have disassembled the clutch today, I couldn’t detect any flaws, all the discs still have decent profile and the clutch basket has minimal notches. Before I join now and get a complete clutch set I would like to know what else can be responsible for it. I put washers behind the clutch springs to get a little more tension on the springs. It seems to me that it has got a little better but still not really good. I am grateful for every tip! MfG KC

Hello dear Yamaha community I introduce myself briefly. Up to now I have been active mainly in the BMW forum. Now I have bought a 2017 Yamaha X-MAX 125. I come from Zurich and enjoy the weather 🙂 To the problem: My X-MAX moves to the left, which means that the scooter tilts to the right. The workshop rebalances the tires, checks the steering head bearing and thinks it is normal, certain tolerances, probably I do not sit in the middle, and so on. For me it is not acceptable, the scooter has a guarantee and should drive straight ahead on its own, no fall, only one year old and 2000KM. Free-handed driving is only possible if the upper body is about 10cm to the left outside of the center. That’s not a little. Of course, you should not drive by hand 🙂 Is only for test purposes. Does anyone have useful information? What can it be on? Wrong settings from factory? The brake system is on the left side, it can we (I put the scooter on the middle stand, the steering wheel straight, then I push the rear wheel down, and the steering wheel immediately pulls strongly to the left side). I’m happy if someone has experiences and solutions. That the Yamaha X-MAX pulls to the left and does not want to know much about the guarantee, takes away the joy of the otherwise very beautiful X-MAX. Thank you.

Hello! I got from my neighbor a Yamaha XJ 900 J or F in the glow J 4BB year of construction 1991 the motorcycle did not jump on. After cleaning the candles renew the battery oil change petrol change she jumped on, I let it run warm. After switching on OFF she went from everything ok after restarting RUN also everything ok.Now she confessed 3 days the starting is not she spins through as if she wanted and then it is over. After checking the candles she sin d Wet the wheel has long confessed that I have to say.Otherwise everything is ok brake fluid changed and vents light also ok only when switching on the driving beam the tail light does not go out at the passing beam. Who can help me there further ? THANK YOU

Hello community, for the current occasion I turn to the experts here. I’m about to make my driving license for the motorcycle. (I’m allowed to drive open) Since I’m on the lookout for potential motorcycles just before the tests. I like the optically the super athletes best. Therefore, the narrow selection falls on the Yamaha R6, Suzuki GSX-R 600 or 750 or the Kawasaki ZX6R. (In the order) I’ve heard from a friend that it makes little sense, a (My talent and motivation to screw is also limited). Can someone tell me about the respective motorbikes, as far as the inspection intervals are concerned, where are the children’s diseases? When are those from the factory set up and how much does that cost about? I think it will be similar with everyone. But maybe someone has current invoices lying around. Since I don’t have any appearance yet, it is not possible for me to do a test drive but if i I would like to buy it in advance. (A review is done before by a well-known mechanic). What do you think I have to invest here for a proper maschiene? Of course I have a price idea but would like to know your opinion about it. I thank you for the help. P.S. Maybe there is also one or other from Dormagen and surroundings for the exchange of information.

Hello Motor-Talker, I would like to ask you about your estimate. Imagine the following fictitious case, there is no real problem: You would have an excellent 125ccm engine with 5000km on the clock. This engine should have for example 11Bar compression. The 11 bar also reaches it and the engine is disassembled. Now we assume that the piston ring game should be 0.2mm. Also this is the case. The question about the fictitious case: How would the compression change, if one now in 1/10mm steps, the piston ring play by grinding down to 5.0mm would increase? Or what is really important to me: Would an engine with 5mm or even 7mm piston ring play still be running if the cylinder and piston dimensions are in the green tolerance range?

Dear community, I am really at a loss what I should do, so the question to you. I want to explain briefly what it is about. I have had the A2 slip for almost 2 years and at the beginning of this year I bought a used XJ600S with about 37,000km for 940€ from a private seller. My cousin did the test drive and he did not notice anything about the machine except a very slight fluttering. The joy about the “new” motorcycle did not last long, because during the first long hen tour (fortunately only through the city) I stayed there – tank was empty. Since there is no tank display on the motorcycle, I thought nothing about it and I filled up and made my way back. To then stay after approx. 85 km again. Once again the tank was empty. I then got in contact with the seller and learned that he had the machine before sale in the workshop (without invoice) to have the carburettor adjusted and the tank I then went to the workshop he specified to have them checked. I noticed an extreme petrol smell already during the ride and I also mentioned it there. You friendly gentlemen checked the motorcycle and found out the following. The 4th cylinder does not run with, no pressure in the engine block, carburettors do not work properly. The entire repairs would cost around 1000€. I have already legally informed myself and only one chance the engine This is not what the mechanics in the workshop with insure to have informed the seller about the defects of the bike. However, since they say that they only got the order to get the motorcycle to run, this is not given. So I am with a big question mark over my head before a decision. What would you do? I am a student and can not easily buy another or would the repair costs be burdensome. In addition, when I sell the bike, I would r machine may only get 300€. I look forward to your opinions and thank you in advance. Enjoy the start of the weekend.

Hello together! I have the following problem, someone can help me here. And indeed my otherwise very faithful DT jumps in by now only very hard. There is hardly any more to kick on, in the past she always came on the first or second kick. But once she has come and runs, then she drives herself astrein, without ruckler or similar. I have also changed the candles several times, but brought only a moderate improvement. Ignition spark is there. My suspicion is now due to the high mileage of now about 40,000km with the cylinder, a compression problem. However, you can still feel a clear resistance while kicking. Vll has someone still a tip or advice?? Mfg

Now I save myself every long explanation. I was in the garage on the motorcycle yesterday and I looked if everything is OK. It should be nice for the weekend Well I left the Virago on and look there, no problem (how also, hangs on the battery guard, so with screwed-down bench etc). So far so good. Unfortunately I am then, ask me not like I have no idea, come to the emergency switch. Works wonderful. Immediately everything was dead! So keys were pulled off, switches again on ru n set up and trying to start in idle mode. But she doesn’t want to jump in, doesn’t even try. However, light braking system, control lights etc. that’s all. Just start it doesn’t. I also folded the side stand, 1st gear in and then tried to start. Also there’s no reaction. What am I doing wrong???? Do I have to keep in mind something else? Is there a device that might have to be unlocked after you have activated the emergency switch? At this point in time, the starter doesn’t turn at all. Therefore—> he still doesn’t get any electricity 🙂 (question is why. Because the other amatures are going yes. Can anyone help me? I’m at a loss….