Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello dear Yamaha friends, I drive a Yamaha XJ600S, year 91. Recently some repairs and TÜV were due and I had the motorcycle repaired by a free workshop and brought over the TÜV. I also had the oil changed (yes, at least that’s what I do myself). Unfortunately, too much oil was filled in. On the day after the pickup I found out at home that a fresh oil pool was under the motorcycle (also the frame was oiled below the oil pan). Even after the excess oil quantity was released the motorcycle loses after (during?!) a ride oil (before the repair it did not!). I have pointed out to the workshop owner (he also repairs himself) the circumstance and told my fear that the seal(s?) is damaged by pressing out excess oil. He argues against it: 1. Oil would lose the machine through the venting, all half as wild as possible. In addition, I could drive with too much oil motorcycle, because I can’t happen except the oil from the venting out of it. 2. Or it’s politely expressed the oil, although it’s very wildly makes me feel like oil.

Tires experience wanted “ContiGo or Bridgestone BT45 ” I want to mount new tires with a Jungster, as the old ones are probably hardened by “non-use” in the course of the years and do not offer enough safety in the curves. On the XJ the last Metzler lasers front 3.25 H 19 and rear 120/90 18 are mounted. Alternatively, one can probably mount the Bridgestone BT 45 or the ContiGO. The Bridgestone should have a saw tooth pattern in the tires ahead after a certain time when sharp is driven. Alternatively, the ContiGo would be much better just because of its profile similar to the Sumo tires and the supposedly good grip. However, some voices say to the rear tire of the ContiGo, which is probably to wear faster than the BT 45. After 3 to 4000 km a new one would then be due. Which experience do you or good acquaintances with it? Personally, it would be no matter if the tire really after 4000Km , because the sumo tire holds just when 2500 to 3000 kM. Dear more grip and less than bad as the Michel.

Servus. I’m new here and hope to find an old rabbit or Häsing, which can give me tips for my problem. I live in the south of Germany and by nature I often travel in the Dolomites. Normally I drive a Triumph Explorer, but at the end of last year I saved at a sentimental moment an XJ600 S Diversion 4BR(A) year ’94 from scrapping. The moped was driven a lot but also experienced quite regular service. There were too many repairs to the previous owner. The engine runs quite round and willing, if you persuaded him to run, there he is a little bitchy, especially if it is colder 🙂 …. I am not a KfZ mechanic now, so I would certainly have to use a workshop if it were to be done around the engine. Quite a lot on the outside I like to do however myself. Meanwhile the good piece of me has e.g. new tyres, new brake discs, steel flex brake glue of course also a fresh brake fluid and new brake pads. In addition, I replaced the defective charging controller, as well as the leaking seals of petrol tap and float chamber covers. Now, however, I am faced with the problem of a defective “carburettor preheater” installation. The previous owner had already made me aware that he has been driving without it for a while. . After I have just sunk down the tank anyway and there is a spare part to buy in the bay, I thought that I would deal with the topic right away. However, I find no information about what is included in this preheater and how it works in principle – if I don’t know exactly how something works, I will leave the fingers of it… Is there vlt. jmd., who can help me here: how is the principal functioning of this preheater? g and which parts may have to be replaced to make the thing work again. Many thanks and greetings from Garmisch Robert

I have a problem that I can’t handle myself. The following problem has been around for a long time, so I tried to solve the problem myself and suspected the error on the carburetor. But unfortunately without success. I turned a lap again today and at the beginning the box ran great, without any problems stuttering. But the warmer the engine got the worse the stuttering. So where the engine was completely cold, nothing was until it got warmer. The candle picture is 1A. So If the engine is warm: From a certain position of the slider (approx. 1/4 gas) the engine stutters. Whether in stationary gas or during acceleration. When accelerating, the stuttering is extreme. If I open the gas tap immediately (except for full gas), it is not stuttering. The stuttering is also when I drive to the Bsp 140 km/h, take the gas completely away and then turn it again to 1/4 gas. So it is not possible to lie on the carburettor, because I checked and cleaned everything there. I didn’t change or screw around. For me, this sounds like a carburetor problem, but I took the carburetor completely apart, looked at each nozzle and checked the suction sockets for leaking. Can it be on the pick up or on the ignition coil? I don’t know what else to do. I can’t remember what it could be anymore. So many components don’t come up anymore. I’ll buy another spark plug tomorrow, but don’t think it’s because of it. Have new spark plugs + other control unit installed. Can jemnad help me or have an idea what it might be about?

Hi, everybody, I tried to synchronize the carburetors after their overhaul, but a cylinder dances out of line and I don’t get it tamed… :/ The carburetor bench was disassembled for overhaul, ultrasonic cleaned and equipped with new nozzles and seals. The float level was set to 13mm and the idle mixing screw was unscrewed 2 revolutions. The engine is running (not yet perfect) and also takes good gas, but cylinder 2 dances out of line . The clocks cross-changed – no change. As soon as I give gas, the pointer blows out. What could it be that cylinder 2 cannot be adjusted? What can I do? What do I have to do? What have I overlooked or not considered? Thank you and Best regards (the left clock has a little Macke and hangs about 0.7 afterwards)

Hello for now, I have recently been in possession of a Yamaha YZF R1 Rn32 Bj. 2016 and have the problem that the machine sometimes does not start because the battery (Shido Lithium LTZ7S/YTZ7S 12V/6AH) is too “weak” (?) at the first start attempt or even after a few days without driving, is already empty. Sounds like a problem with the battery, but I have already bought a new one and the problem has nevertheless occurred. It is a lithium battery, so it can also be due to the minus degrees of the last weeks, which this battery type does not put away so well. I would like a mobile starting aid, which in the best case is quite compact and which I can connect directly to my motorcycle. My plan was the following: 1. To have a starting aid cable (ring eyelets to EC5 plug) permanently on the battery and to have access from the outside. 2. A starting aid power bank with EC5 connector, which I can connect if necessary. I have my Bed Is an EC5 connector better or a SAE connector? 3. Is there something to consider when starting a lithium battery? (some of these start-up power banks probably only work with lead batteries and I haven’t found one for lithium so far) I would be very happy about help, as I’ve been researching this topic for days, but I don’t really get smart about it… Maybe there is already someone who has such a assembly himself and can tell me the components? Thank you in advance, Leander

Hello, I want to get the XJ 900 F, BJ so about 1990. Since these mopeds are already a bit old, they often also have the corresponding mileage. I am particularly interested in a relatively cheap model, however with approx. 70,000 km. Is that too much for the XJ? Or is it loosely put away. The nice piece should cost approx. 1,300,-€ incl. case kit/topcase (BJ 92). Otherwise not with anything, so suspension or something. What should I look at especially when testing / looking at? Or gleic h keep your hands off it?

It’s me again, I’m slowly working my way through my current project. Now the engine is on it, I’ve found that a piston ring is crumbling and has cut quite a few quilts into the upper piston edge. think that the part would run with new rings and some files until Katmandu, but still wants to rebuild the cylinder. 1. Which service provider, who also sends, is recommending? 2. Is there the possibility to glue a cooling rib again? 3. Many drill the Stand up and go on M8. Should you do that right away or rather try to freeze them out and get new ones in? 4. How do I measure the piston? Is there enough of a slide lesson? And yes: I send you a side cover picture 😉 LG Usch

Hello together, I bought my DT fresh and of course it blocked the rear wheel with my luck and most probably eaten. Since I don’t want to start 5 times I would have removed the engine and completely rebuilt it. In addition, it should be brought technically to a more modern level. I have all plans etc. for the moped however before going off I have various questions. – Are other motors and attachments possibly from the Dt250 or 125 with the de r 175 compatible, can I even insert the 250 engine directly into the frame? – The same question arises for me with the gear parts bearing etc. – Most likely the trigger from the piston eater was a defective oil pump. Does someone drive with mixture? Couldn’t be a topic to shut down the pump. – What is it like with tuning? is there experience with tuning parts? Does the device have another cracker / end pot there are any tricks from the ignition side? e already with the original parts difficult to find the right parts. Do you have good pages for OEM or also tuning parts? Parts numbers etc. Here my complete project: For links and recommendations I am very grateful! > Light & turn signal: Should everything be LED For this I have already selected all parts. > fender back: would like to shorten thus I need a 2nd > Krummer + Endtop: Have you experiences he gives shorter end pots/ sport manifolds with more volume > Carburettor: which carburettors do you use like this? Which are reliable and give a little more bangs on the bike? > Tires have I already picked out more smoother to be able to drive on the road a little more pleasantly. > I would have reinstalled all trains as they are all rusty. > Transmission: are there still original or OEM transmission parts as well as all seals Simmerrings and bearings? > Cylinders and pistons: I found the following: https://www.ebay.de/…/114220859366 > Screws: I need all the screw sets > Suspension: Which oils do you use? Do you get the chassis a little bit tighter with another oil? Do you have links to the sealing kits and bearings? As you can see, I need almost everything I am very grateful for every link, experience and tips.

Hello dear forum members, I’ve been reading the forum here for a long time now and notice that really nice people are on the road here. I hope you can help me in my case. I want to make my big ticket for the motorcycle this year. I have the A1 but it is not comparable. As a machine I have looked at the Yamaha R1 and the R6. Although the R1 has more power I think that as a newcomer in the class a R6 is far enough. I’m mainly thinking about my lack of experience with such a strong bike as the R1 and to be honest I don’t want to hang dead on the tree after 2 days. So I’m very likely to opt for the R6. Maybe you can give me an opinion about my considerations or review R6 / R1 for beginners. Thank you Sonic