Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello, I turned off my motorcycle at school and I just learned that a friend of mine turned me on for fun in the 5th-6th gear in the stand with the engine switched off, probably without clutch. Was something damaged and how do I best switch down? Ignition on, pull the clutch, start the engine and then just switch it off?

I don’t understand that everyone is always talking about changing the cooling water? Why coolant hammers at least 10 years of opening cooler fitting is a clear liquid in it is good with a notched broth ok then change it. Otherwise let the fingers of it only after 10 years or 300 000 miles it should be changed that are already all continuous cooling fluids!!

Hello all, I have a Yamaha XV 750 4PW BJ97 where I refreshed everything somewhat before I drove it again after a long standing time. Now I have the following problems: At full load in the upper speed range no more power, at gas removal misignitions and white spark plugs. Air filter is fresh – intake I will test whether densely Keyster carburettor repair set carburettor synchronised New fuel lines tank checked and fresh fuel The only thing I n och habe: Since it is a V2 engine and the petrol tap membrane was somehow not dense I blinded the vacuum hose from the suction nozzle to the petrol tap and then drive with the position PRI (run through). After that I re-synchronized the carburettor like above. In the stand it finally ran a lot better and quieter but still the problem with the high speed and no more power… (from approx. 4.5 thousand revolutions no more power and only very slow turn up) U And when it’s cold and I activate the choke it jumps briefly on turns up and goes out again. Then I have to turn the stand gas screw very far in so that it gets temperature after eternal E-starter at some point and stays without Choke. I have Pro carburettor a 122.5 main nozzle (original) and the needle has only one position. And the mixture screw can not be set with running motor because no access possible / I have 2.5 revolutions outside of stop) I will order a petrol tap and restore the vacuum line, will make me smart how to check the ignition coils correctly and check valve games – more I can no longer think of what I can still do so that it runs nicely… floating positions I try to look at again and adjust if necessary and to exclude that he gets too much air sometimes with adhesive tape or similar to reduce the suction so that I can see if it then runs better (since to lean by too much Lu It can’t be that the flat sliders are opened properly by membrane and therefore they run to lean (I have traces of wear on one side of the flat slider and guess that the one depends and therefore not enough fuel is fed but with low to medium speed band there is enough power… If someone has a tip I would be VERY grateful! I’ll add pictures tonight.

Hello my dear friends, I added a DT to my condition 2 months ago TÜV reports from 85 until now. Since I am dependent on my DT in winter I looked into my water tank once, I did not find a coolant but chocolate pudding [see videos and photos]. It does not squirt conspicuously only after accelerating it smokes a little [normal for a 2 bar]. Now I ask myself the question what can this be? Temperature problems I have never had before as well as It was still warm. What is that slime? Is it enough to rinse with distilled water? lg

If you have a tip on the black bar (see photo , supposedly pixel error in the display ) in the kilometer display ? Would you like a workshop that gets that or a private contact . The tachograph otherwise works perfectly . Also the km display ! Only there is this permanently existing black bar available . Have received a variety of different statements : 1. This cannot be eliminated 2. If two tachos can be sent in , the kmStand of the now installed tachos can be read out and taken over into a used tacho. 3. With a used tacho the km-Stand cannot be changed. The displayed is fixed ! Thanks for your support !

Servus Friends I have an A2 driver’s license and would like to buy a Yamaha XJ900 (first registration in 1988). I want to throttle this and convert it to a Cafe Racer… Now the version has 98 hp and I can only drive up to 95 hp (and then reduced to 48 hp) with the A2. If I would have the bike checked for the current performance level, will there possibly come out 95 hp? Due to wear etc. over the years. Or do I have no chance to have it transferred to 95 hp? otherwise a different possibility, so that I can still legally ride the bike? Can I possibly manage this somehow with the “right” inspector from the TÜV? There is a throttle for 48 hp and I would find it a pity if the project would fail at the 3 hp… Thank you very much! MfG

Hello together, I have run a few minor “problems” with my XJ 900 Diversion 4km Built in 1997 about 35,000 km. I bought the machine a good 2 months ago from a dealer near me. Before the collection a complete inspection with all liquids was done. Now I drive the XJ for about 700 km and I noticed a few small things. But I don’t quite know if the problems I have to deal with or things that are normal for the XJ. Learn the M 1. When the XJ is cold, I have the feeling that it clacks out of the engine. Can also mislead me. 2. When the XJ has run warm, the exhaust gases do not come from the right exhaust, but with such a light puff puff puff. Hard to explain. On the left, the exhaust gases are nice and even. I don’t know if this is normal. But I didn’t notice until today. I can’t remember that it was until now. 3. When I fall in the evening (day after day it falls). The light flickers sometimes, either when I flash or at the acceleration. As if the lighting system were short and then working again. Thank you for your thoughts. BG

Hello dear XJ community, I’m new here, my name is Jan and I live in Erding. Recently I bought a 31a because I had one between 1984 and 1991. Wonderful! Now my question: I would like to upgrade for optical and nostalgic reasons to the original handlebar-resistant panel. Supposedly the bike then tends to commute, but that was then with the Pirelli Phantom. Today’s tires (have now the BT45) are many times better, besides I use the 40 Jah Re old bike no longer on the highway anyway. Does anyone have experience with it? Does anyone have experience with the released radial tyres (e.g. Conti Road attack)? Greetings Jan

Hello, Today during the ride of the engine of my R125 year 2019 I ran out under strange noises. Got a loud helmet and was on the highway therefore I can not describe the sound perfectly but healthy it did not sound at all. The indicator light is on and the engine can no longer be switched on. Not even the ignition works, means when I press the starter comes no more than one click. Engine has driven about 19500 km and I actually did No short distances if it could be avoided and over 7-8K I have almost never turned because I also avoid motorways if I can. Is it possible to start with a remote diagnosis? At least to narrow down the source of the problem something? At the moment I don’t really have the resources for workshop and can really only hope that the whole engine is not in a bucket… So if someone knows what..

Need spiritual support again A buddy asked me to bring a rather rancid DT-175 engine back into the gears Coupling and cylinders are lying next to it, visible and noticeable running tracks on the piston, upper ring fixed, but according to My estimation rather a dead end, it did not eat. What makes me sceptical is that the part, especially the clutch discs, are totally rusty. But: where should the water come from? I am afraid that bearing balls rusted si So my specific question: how realistic is it that a standing engine rusts from the inside so that storage damage threatens, or does it grind itself with the time, love, hope and fresh oil? My plan would be, because neatly rust solver pure, then two three times properly shaken with gasoline, fresh oil on it and finished. Am I improving or is this a recommended procedure? I don’t, the workload is out of budget anyway.