Category: Yamaha Forum

My DT 50 MXS unfortunately causes problems. It rotates cleanly high up to about 80%, but then the rest is missing. It looks like you are missing fuel on top. It’s all 100% original, also the main nozzle suction nozzle etc. The mixing screw is set exactly according to manual, 1.5 turns out, the needle is in place 2. What I have done so far: I cleaned the carburettor twice, all nozzles are free, every hole. The float is set correctly. The air filter is like new. The connector between the carburetor and the air filter box is right… I removed the cracker and exhaust, was quite oily, I cleaned it coarsely, but I am almost sure that it is not the source of the fault. In my opinion, the spark plug looks ok, brownish, a little rusty on the outside, maybe it runs a little too fat. But it’s always a bit grim, but it’s a little greasy, so I’ve sealed it now. Not at the back, and I definitely drove the DT 50 already fatter and it ran normal… It’s striking that when I start the moped now, it’s short the first two, three times when I turn up gas give, but then no more. It’s like a lack of 10-20 % power. It doesn’t run completely bad, you can drive. But normally the DT 50 MX (is my third) always run around 60, and it runs like that only 50. And at some point it already ran better. Somehow says My gut feeling that the problem is in the carburetor, but I have no idea what else to test… do you have an idea?

Hi I’m new in the forum.Great posts, but nothing that helped me.Unfortunately. Therefore my question to you: Normally my XV starts immediately at the push of a button.When I start off always.But after a smoking break I have a huge problem. For 3 years! — is at just this break and the pressure on the starter switch only a crack ( once ) to hear.Then I press 2-4 times it spins hard, but then jumps on. a new magnet switch didn’t succeed. So the error is somewhere else. I also have the same problem when I hit the car battery. Only a crack. So it’s not because of an empty battery. I turn a gear in and then push the gear slightly against the center of gravity and then start, the magnet switch pulls through and the machine jumps on. Would be very grateful if someone who had the same problem before “I could give you a hint.

Hello together, my name is Kevin and I drive a Yamaha XVS 650 4VR from 1997. History: I decided to take a break at the beginning of the season to expand my steering switch and have black powder coating. I came back here a little over a month ago and built it all up again. Ignition turned on and noticed it doesn’t start as always the petrol pump (think it’s the petrol pump?), nothing at first. Everything works, turn signal, brake light, off and main light, look e da Hupe is not working. OK I thought to myself later. Full of euphoria E starter pressed and with terrified noticed, nothing. As if the switch was death. OK I thought to myself battery is too weak, bought new and same game as before..everything goes except horn, gasoline pump does not start and e starter does not make a muck. I then read some rum and there it was said it can lie completely on the Killswitch. Thought OK sounds logical, because when I put in there something broke and I I may have thought he has a wackler. So new steering switch got worried. Everything built in full of joy but see there, same problem as before. I slowly despair because unfortunately on the part of Mottorad I also don’t know so well. Gasoline is present in the tank, everything fuses in order (also nothing burns) and battery is new. Killswitch should be fine, because when operating I hear a relay. Maybe someone has an idea about what it might be? And I’m sorry w it is an obvious mistake but as I said, I don’t know myself so well. Thank you in advance.

Hi together… I have something to change before my FZ8. Would you have nice if you had n some suggestions. Planned are: rear silencer, brake and clutch lever, mirror, rims (possibly water transfer pressure… or rim stickers…Color?? ) LED indicator front, footrests… Am not entirely conclusive to me if I should partially be mounted in gold (because of the suspension fork) … especially concerning the clutch and brake levers as well as the feet. Or rather stay with blue/black… Greeting Andy

Hello to the municipality, I am just driving A and have the opportunity to get a YAMAHA XV 500 SE in a very good condition. Since you find so little on the internet I thought I asked here for the reliability and general experience reports of this moped. And do you mean a trip from Bavaria (Franken) to Berlin is possible without any problems ? Many greetings

Hello guys, I want to shield you: With my Max the battery is emptied during the ride. In order to keep them alive I have to keep the Max of traffic lights always in the gas, otherwise it dies. I measured the following values: Battery fully charged: 12.8V Charge voltage increases to a maximum of 13.2V, voltage does not break together with higher dreg numbers Residency of windings: 0.7Ohm; 0.7Ohm; 0.7Ohm AC voltage of Lima measured between phases: approx. 21V i.e. 63V g It’s not possible to detect a mass closure, all plugs cleaned and treated with contact spray According to the workshop book, the resistance must be about 0,35 ohms. You think there is the problem to look for. Furthermore, I had read that when using double headlights, as in my case, the Lima already comes to the limits. what do you think?

Hello together maybe one of you can help me. I have a Yamaha YZF 1000 R built in 1997 and am doing a big maintenance (change valve shaft seals, grind in valves etc.) I have a problem now which I can’t explain to myself. I don’t get the first part of the cylinder head off. Screws are all solved/removed and also seems to want to get out but it hacks or it jams somewhere. I don’t want to pull out now with violence. There’s nothing in the workshop manual that helps me. I once added a picture from the internet so you know which part of the cylinder head I mean (marked red).

Hello to each other, I’m the new one and I’m looking for a used vehicle (Enduro) around (max 125cc, 15ps, you know) And I want to get involved directly with a question. :> What do you think of a service life 25+ years dry in barn? Would such a DT 80 LC1 still be saved by hand? I have to say, of course, that I have no experience in “screwing”, but it is often mentioned that these old bikes are easy to repair by myself. Can you say from the beginning that such a thing would be utopian for this motorcycle in terms of cost? Thank you very much already and nice Wednesday

If it only runs on three cylinders, then it suddenly pulls off at full throttle to expose itself immediately to it. All float chambers fill up, I tried that, the carburettors are supposedly ultra sound cleaned, at least externally pieksauber, however, this has made a Yamaha – dealer, not myself. Before I take them apart now and shell them myself, maybe someone has an idea, the same experience, it is what banal ? spark plugs are new, filters are also. And: W as have the six (!) black hoses for a purpose that disappear from the gasses in the Nirvana in front of the battery box (and are nowhere connected)

Hello, well you can help me, had my yamaha virago 535 bj93 rebuilt, and now she no longer jumps on or, I need the bensinpumping relay with mass over bridges to start it, and even then she only runs on cylinder 1, I assume that the cdi does not pass any mass to the relay because the cable goes directly to the cdi. Had anyone ever had such problems and had advice for me still spin through, relai I worked tested, gasoline pump works even after exercise rbrücken, I assume that the cdi is broken or just that it does not release the mass because what andres is broken like e.g. kill switch or magnet switch in the petrol tank????? Just how to check???