Category: Yamaha Forum

Moin together. I’ve had a problem with my little, well, always. From the very beginning, she jumps very badly, when the engine is cold, and with Choke already not at all… if she then approaches, then she dumps with hardly perceptible rotary zalula (so 800 ca) before her, then she likes to die off, if I don’t react fast enough with the gas tap. If I now move the Choke even a few millimeters, she dies immediately, but then can be without Choke u If the engine then has a little temperature, so after about 1min. it keeps the idling quite stable and rises In the speed slowly direction 950-1000 revolutions, which then sounds like a healthy and round idling. If I put the choke in before I start, then the whole doesn’t sound so healthy either. The sound is not quite easy to describe, but is best to compare with a very dull knocking that par If the little warm is everything is tutti, only to get it until then is quite difficult. Warm start without a choke and without gas in 2 seconds. Well then also the real question: How would you go about this thing, how does a meaningful order of work look here? Have basically a plan of cars, but with engines with carburettors my experience value is practically not available… Thanks in advance for your help

Hello all, I am unfortunately at the end of my nerves. I bought the Yamaha Virago 535 from dealer, first hand. Year of construction 1999 mileage 7000km The moped is in a very good condition, everything was also made by the dealer – service carried out fresh through our master workshop – carburetor overhauled – spark plugs new – spark plug new – oil and filter change The following problem, hot or cold, when pulling gas in idle, the speed always hangs a short time and goes very l There’s no problem when I drive, but I come to the stand and try to drive, it doesn’t come forward as if it’s swallowing. In addition, as soon as I pull 20% of the gas nothing comes, when I give 30% it pushes forward suddenly. Am I at speed and give gas everything good. Only this advance. Of course, no direct injection but my feeling is that something is wrong. Another note, in idle and when releasing gas, the exhaust is banging. t though nice but something not right with the moped. Dealer tells me that the seals have been checked, my guess that runs too lean or pulls false air. I drove just since purchase 100km and had once filled Super Plus. Hope that someone here can help me thanks !! LG Daniel

Hello, I’m new here at the Yamaha Forum since I bought a Tracer 9 GT from 2021 3 weeks ago. Since 1994 I drive a motorcycle and have never changed a brake line. I have now read somewhere that Yamaha requires an exchange after already 4 years??? My first machine was a Honda CB 500, with which I drove for 14 years, about 55 TKm) and have done all the maintenance work after the warranty period itself. I have the brake fluid regularly every 3 years. The Honda also had rubber brake hoses, while the BMW was made of steel flexible cables. In the car, brake hoses are only replaced if these first porous spots on the outer skin (usually after more than 10 years). The TÜV examiner sees this the same way. Is this a (over) careful ) measure of Yamaha, as is the case with so many manufacturers today? How do you handle it?

Hello together, I have bought a XV 1100 vehicle,without wire harness,but all parts as stated. I have problems to connect the ignition to the ECU. Can someone tell me or also help me to restore this? I need to say so the occupancy for the ECU. MfG Maddin

Hello friends, I bought a used Yamaha Thundercat in 1997 and wanted to change the cooling fluid, watched a video from YouTube and did so. I only found the manual and found the operating instructions and found that I did not do it the way it is in the manual. Do I risk an engine damage? The following: I opened the hose at the left side of the water pump below or loosened the clamp and then from the hose of the n Radiator comes the cooling liquid drained, it is of course also a little out of the water pump, according to the manual one should unscrew the screw with the water pump and so blow and additionally two screws at the cylinder head should be opened and there also coolant should be drained… However, I did not do this, just loosen the hose that runs to the water pump and then filled with distilled water at the top in the radiator, the motorcycle approx. 1 minu running around the system to rinse after that again the liquid left out and filled up in the radiator with fresh coolant… Then just start the motorcycle and leave the radiator open so that it is ventilated… I found at the end that I only filled 1.5L, according to the manual belong in the cooling system 1.95L and 0.55 in the reserve tank… take that I have not drained the whole coolant, maybe there is air still inside I risk an engine damage? Bil d 1 Figure 2

Hello dear motor talker, I have an annoying problem with my XJ 650 from 83. The motorcycle gives full throttle on its own. It starts clean, but turns high after a second and hangs at high speed. I have open air filters on it, but the motorcycle ran with those earlier without any problems. What I have already tested: – Gas and Choke rope hoists have nothing to do with it – Idle speed control screw brings no change – carburettor has been cleaned, all membranes are healed, all nozzles free – mixture screws turned out on 2.5 revolutions, no change – intake nozzle and seal new, no improvement – petrol tap membrane works perfectly. – The carburetor is synchronized – the spark plugs are a bit black, so the motorcycle seems to run too fat. Don’t understand exactly what the cause is. Does anyone have another idea? Thank you very much am desperate.

Hello community, I have the following problem on my R6 RJ05: From a fairly exact 8500 rpm the performance is missing. I always describe it like a kind of child safety system The performance is completely gone, the machine starts to stutter and first does not take any gas until the rotary blade falls off again and attracts it again. But only up to 8500 rpm. I had given a system cleaner in the tank last year and the problem was gone during a longer tour, after the winter this year again the same problem. The problem has been the machine for a long time, since I anyway rarely and little driving I had never had to deal with the muse. The good piece should be given for a new MT07 in payment, however the dealer could give me on the basis only “a few hundred” , which is why it is now active also there for the examination there is what it could be. Actuel the workshop is probably in contact with Yamaha whether the error is known. The factory At present, however, it tends to the petrol pump, which probably doesn’t deliver enough from XY U/min. A new pump probably costs ~600€ if I have seen this right with my research. Evtl has some similar experiences or solutions here.

Hello need your help, after my aerox drove great again, the disillusionment came again.Spring at once with the settings no more.I have to turn the mixing screw almost completely in, so to the right, almost to stop, about a quarter of a turn I can still turn out, then it runs.If I turn further left out then he wants to go out.Is this setting not too fat?Why does it only run out in this setting. Rtel turn.What can that be, or what do I have to change with it that purrs again.Understand the whole net.When starting it turns then also in the setting extremely high so that the rear wheel turns already like crazy..For helpful tips I am grateful to you

Guys, I’m looking for another möppi. 🙂 An acquaintance of mine wants to sell me his FJ 1200 3CW (3rd hand, 5o TKM, 90er BJ) for a big appearance. Simmerrings, chain and tires have to be made. Simmerrings for the TÜV, rest for me, because machine since last TÜV almost only stood. Otherwise, it looks very good. Except for the tires I do the two things myself, should then with tires become almost 500 double mark. Machine I like very well, can sit well on it and ha t neat booms from the basement. But just chain. Kardan I like better, because no effort except once a year change oil. So I hold it at my R80 at present. Aaaaber: I like the XJ900 Diversion almost better. There I have one in mind for almost 3 large bills, 90 TKM, 1st hand, check booklet and Kardan. Can I also sit well on it, but must be turned a little doller. Cost more than the Brummer above, in about the same weight and almost similar consumption. So … Has anyone ever had both machines? Dangers? What is the better choice for a quiet but tall driver?

Hello Have a yamaha fz6ns2 bj 09 without abs. I was recently allowed to drive an abs braked fz6 and would like to miss this extra no more. Unfortunately, I have no one on my machine. My question is, is there a retrofit kit? Is it recommended to install the afterwards? What does something like this cost? How much can I expect for the complete conversion? And, can someone recommend me serious suppliers? Thank you in advance!