Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello, immediately after the purchase of my XYR 1200 in 1998 I installed a half-shell, which was manufactured in Italy and distributed via Yamaha. Meanwhile the luminosity of the Ablelllichte is no longer sufficient. On the bulb and the power supply it is most likely not. The headlight is from tri.o.m and has the number 400032-1-2. Has someone had the same problem one time? Can it lie on the reflector or the optics for the dipped-beam? Does someone know where I can buy a new headlight cheaply? Thank you and greeting, Bernhard.

Hey Schrabuerfreunde, I hope to meet someone who knows each other here. I have a Yamaha XS400 4g5 built in 1980 with 38 hp. The machine stood almost 20 years in the garage, but has jumped directly. After cleaning the carburettor, the motorcycle no longer takes any gas. Gas levers completely twist through do not bring the bike over 2000 revolutions. To the background: carburettor was cleaned and the nozzles also looked very good. (nozzles also looked very good) The machine was throttled from 27hp to 38p S. The question now arises to me whether no suitable nozzles were installed during the dethrottle. Main nozzle 125 air nozzle 150 needle position to 2 (at all other stages they do not start) No-load mixing nozzle has been tested for several positions (without success) Seals have been tested, no false air is attracted Can anyone help me?

Moin moin friends, yesterday I drove with my Thundercat about 15KM without any problems. Then she stood up for about 2 hours, she jumped normal, but after about 100 m she just went out without jerking or anything like you just turned the ignition key. The only thing she still does now is on ignition and try to get the oil level warning light on and that was it. No starter turns, no petrol pump clacks or anything else. The starter turns, motorcycle starts and both lamps go off. Does anyone know this mistake or can give me any tips? Thanks already for your help

Hello I had built in a new engine days ago because my old engine was botched. Well with the installation I apparently now also failed miserably 2 Yamaha books and step by step everything checked off and marked. Engine has 200km down So to the problem new engine started running without problems after 50kms started with cooling water problems Moto control light did not light up. probably means that it also didn’t get too hot. But! The Maschiene has up in the cooler instead of 1l nu r 500-600ml of coolant fit in. Before emptied on the screw on the cylinder so should be as good as nothing in it. well was full once turned on and let run until all bubbles come up up well maybe still 50 ml refilled closed up. The compensation tank filled up to the prescribed 250ml between Min-Max so few round driven not far about 15-25 km. started to shoot me the coolant from the cooling system into the compensation tank de r then in the ride passed noticeably by drops on the disguise and puddle small ones. Then the Maschiene Schleichend started to get start problems as soon as she was on but she ran without problems then went before after a ride briefly into the bank to withdraw money afterwards I had to take about 2-5 min organs until she started. See video (home after 10 min standing time so still warm) Do not need any stupid comments either I know I’ve shit something. e New engine 800 for the air. Sparkling plug Rzufern was wet smelled of gasoline. But I have no idea about despair. Machine: Yamaha YZF-R125 Re06 bj2011 New replacement engine.

Hello, I have a yzfr 2022 and last year I had the 1000 service. At the workshop, where I carried out the oil change, said that then the next service is at 6000km, where the oil is changed again. At the moment I am at 5400km, but I just noticed that in the manual it says that the oil should be changed every 3000km after the first interval. Did this follow now, if I change this only at the 6000er?

Tomorrow, year 95 My neighbour has made me, battery is charged 12Volt but should be replaced. Seat removed when I turn on the ignition lights up nothing with the instruments but it clicks on the Big Black box under the seat, it does not start either, so does not react to the push of a button and starter does not receive a signal. Do I turn off the ignition briefly the Green Idle indicator. is there still a fuse? Is idle in and stand is e s also not, or yet the battery too weak? or a relay broke over winter? Machine still ran last year. Edit: what noticed, is that the gas grip is fixed, I could not look yet, has the possibly a TPS sensor on it so that it does not switch through because that is something from the resting state? mfg. Peter

Moin, am new here in this section – I have been running around in the forum for a long time, but so far only in the car section. But this has changed for a short time, because since this year (end of April ́24) I also ride “Motorcycle” after a long discussion with my wife, who has always been against motorcycling so far – but this has finally changed this year. even though the reason originally came from our daughter, who is currently in class A1 and BF17 makes reason enough for me take up the topic again long talk short meaning, I made so this year short time times fix B196 and to me fittingly a Yamaha MT-125 as new vehicle added, so it can now happen that I now more often roam around here and who knows what happens in close purchase still wishes everyone a nitter-free season and on a good cooperation vg Stefan

Hello, I connected the battery wrongly last week and since then the machine (Mt10 from 2016) no longer starts. I changed the main fuse (1st photo) the problem is still there. It sounds like the machine is short and then goes out again and again and again. I removed the starter relay once and I noticed that the right compact point for the fuse is not available at all, is that normal? Can that have something to do with it? ? I hope someone can help me here Link to the start-up video: https://youtube.com/shorts/lJ8Bf2vqTl4?feature=share

Hi, already sorry in advance when there are already several threads on this topic, I am in the bottle subforum or other things… I have been dealing with the topic for some time now and have found nothing to please me at best will so far. To my problem: my moped has foam in the oil but not too much and even only with running engine. After that it is put away within a minute. Jetz is always left in forums where it can lie and that foam In the oil is a dead sin and an engine damage is imminent. But I can let out the “normal causes” such as too much oil, cooling system or too much short distance all. My cooling system was printed by the workshop and is dense, it can not be too much oil as well as short distance. After I made my oil change yesterday with oil filter and extra attention did not get in too much oil and it still foams, maybe a little less but foam is still there. a contamination in the oil it can not lie with fresh oil. I drive now certainly already 8000KM with this problem and have up to the little foam in the display glass no other faults. Can it be the foam is to a certain extent normal and I let the Internet drive me crazy? already thank you Lg

Hello together, I recently bought myself a Yamaha Virago 125,EZ 2003 with 7.6KW. The machine actually runs cold as well as warm I would say quite well, jumps immediately. What with me problem is, if I drive e.g. 3rd gear and give full throttle swallows the machine for a moment and then accelerates normally. What I have to mention is that Yamaha accelerates better with 3/4 gas than with full throttle and that you can feel it so properly. According to previous owner, the suction support was replaced,larger Main nozzle installed and then carburettor set (as I said in idle it runs really nice and quiet). I just installed the new NGK Iridium spark plug, but set electrode distance to 0,6mm (according to the internet is 0,6mm). Candle picture looks fine for me. What else could the problem be?