Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello, We have a yamaha rd 350lc YVPS stand long in the cellar and garage at least 15 years. Has only one key.. Has been on the race track. Papers probably have disappeared. Jumps probably. But I did not test. Whether and how it runs… What is a realistic price? I want to buy it from my uncle. It was the machine from my grandpa. According to him it moves in the range 4000+ There was also someone who did not want to pay the price.. Ic h once offered 2000. Is that realistic? Or is it worth much more unkempt standing for at least 15 years. Without TÜV.. I’m concerned above all about the fact that she stays in the family.. My uncle wants to sell.. He said a well-known says it would be a collector object and therefore so expensive… but 4000 for a kfz without TÜV and papers I don’t think is realistic now. Dear Sarah Wursthorn [Transferred from motor talk from the topic ‘Price yamaha rd350 lc YVPS’.]

Hello municipality, I have brought a RD 125 AS3/DX back on the road. The engine has 12tkm.. new piston rings mounted, all seals and wedirings renewed, carburettor overhauled etc… On the roll the thing presses 14,5 hp at 8500 1/min at the crankshaft. however below 7000 1/m, in “goes” almost nothing. Light slope (2-3%) in the third gear 9501/min about 65 km/h => high and the speed drops to about 7500… then it loses slightly at speed … and if it is below 70 00 down is the oven off… Turn back again 9500, switch … the same game. I have already scratched at the front from 15 to 14 to 13… the transitions are a bit better… But the performance so blatantly drops does not go into my head… OK 125ccm is not much .. Does anyone have similar experience or a tip?

Hello together, can someone give me a tip how to get the front fork or shock absorber apart to renew the Simmerings? Thank you in advance

Good evening, I recently bought an XJ 600 from 1997. I unfortunately had to throttle it because I only have the A2. My problem is that it runs out as soon as it is really warm. I have changed the battery so far because after the drive the battery was displayed as empty according to my charger. Next I had checked the controller, here I had at two inputs 0.6 Ohm and at a 56kOhm. Have replaced it now and there is still the same problem. If I had the Bat I have measured the alternator through today. On all 3 lines I have 48V and Ohm lies in a very small area approx. 0.8Ohm. What makes me stutzig is that when I give gas the voltage goes further down instead of high. Could it be the Lima? According to previous owner he does not know this problem. Is there any problem with this problem? s possibly at the throttle? This is installed between the cylinder head and suction nozzle so after the carburettor. I am very grateful about every help since I am really perplexed. Thanks in advance.

Hello, I am currently making my XJ550 Built. 1984 fit again after a longer service life. I have already cleaned and overhauled the carburettor bench. I also checked the valve play and used other Shims, so that this is again in the right measure. After I had problems with the idle speed during the initial start attempts I expanded the carburettor bench again and changed the throttle valve seals. Now the motorcycle runs quietly in the stand. and during the first small test drive everything went unobtrusively. Now, however, I still have the problem that the motorcycle can be turned into the 1st or 2 gears difficult. Thus it is hardly possible to switch to the neutrals. It feels like the whole mechanically blocked. I had not yet had the clutch open, because I am a bit unsure about this. I have difficulties with the cold start of the machine. So far it was only possible with I have read in some forums that the small battery does not have enough power to start the engine, because it has a higher resistance due to a non-opening clutch. Is it possible that these two problems are related to each other or must now be the third battery, since the new one is no good? I hope that you can help me further. In the meantime I put a lot of work into the machine and I would be happy to get it to run again perfectly. If the information and technical data are a little too short I can list all of them again of course

Good day, I became 20 years old a few days ago and have now made my A appearance and should now drive the “very big” one. I made my A1 at 16, with 18 A2 but I drove until the end of 18 was my little 125. From 18-Now I unfortunately did not buy an A2 machine and have only ever driven a larger machine in between from well-known ones (mal 48Ps, sometimes more) (If I have to estimate a total of about 1500km driven last year). I am not interested in the n am thinking of buying me a 2009 R6. I know, changing from 15 to 129Ps could be a bit much, but I have always been a very reasonable and forward-looking driver and would slowly try to get to the full performance. Now to my question: Do you think I’m going to kill myself with it or has one of you also made a similar jump in performance and can give me tips on this. I’ve also seen several (especially in the USA), which directly on a 60 That’s why I personally don’t think that’s too tragic. LG and thank you for the opinions, Niclas

Hello people! I think about a suitable moped for my nephew and fell in love with the XSR125. I will buy him the A1 (he will soon be 17), but he still has NO LEEI car experience! I don’t feel good about giving him a moped with a highway speed, but would be happier to give him a Fz, which does not run faster than 55 km/h. So that he can keep up with the city traffic without any problems. Of course you could go the official way via AM (with really pitiful 45km/h), but that means for me completely stupid and unnecessary costs for FS and also for the moped. So A1 would be really useful and desirable. Would I therefore be very pleased to have the moped down to 50…55km/h for a year. Does anyone have an idea where I can do this? P.S.: If this limitation is achieved by a sim plen mechanical intervention (e.g. final stop at the gas train) would of course be all the more welcome to me…

I had to do some technical things (brake was fixed, fork leaking etc), now the engine comes up. Both cylinders have over 8 bar. It has a top spark of ignition. Even after 8 years the ignition can not have changed. The carburettors are tight. After 10 attempts candles out: are wet, i.e. fuel arrives. The only thing that comes to mind is carburettor out and into the ultrasound, o Although they obviously work. Or does someone have another idea before I get in the annoying carburetor – get out of it? Thanks in advance! Greetings, Uwe

Hello together With regard to the assembly of the hand brake cylinder I would need some expert tips. I bought a new repset, now the strange metal disc puzzles me, because I am not clear about the exact positioning (not least because of different statements of some people). My question is: How exactly does the marked disc have to be positioned? I assume that it is pushed directly after the 2nd cuff on the piston…and indeed so as shown on the picture. Or is icj there wrong? Thank you for your opinions. HP

Moin Moin.. I bought me a bolted-out xj900 4BB today. Has everything been done so far. Only cardan oil not. I read in the book that a SAE 90 should be pure Have here still from my oldtimers a fresh 75w140 GL6 stand …should nevertheless also fold or? It will be warm yes thinner than a cold 90s In the differentials of various oldtimers has always come a GL5/6 with as large a tension as possible of viscosity. Cold as thin and hot halt thick…should nevertheless not snow ll run back enough into the lubricating area? I’ve done this for years and never had any problems. Or is the XJ very sensitive? In the engine belongs a 10w40. Does someone happen to have the norm ready? Or is there an oil among xj’lers or diva drivers where everyone “swear on it” . Best regards And always a hand wide under the bug spoiler. What I just remembered. These shock absorbers have come recently just before tuv at the previous owner. Do you need an ABE or registration for? I didn’t tell him and he wouldn’t have cared about it.