Category: Yamaha Forum

Hello people! I think about a suitable moped for my nephew and fell in love with the XSR125. I will buy him the A1 (he will soon be 17), but he still has NO LEEI car experience! I don’t feel good about giving him a moped with a highway speed, but would be happier to give him a Fz, which does not run faster than 55 km/h. So that he can keep up with the city traffic without any problems. Of course you could go the official way via AM (with really pitiful 45km/h), but that means for me completely stupid and unnecessary costs for FS and also for the moped. So A1 would be really useful and desirable. Would I therefore be very pleased to have the moped down to 50…55km/h for a year. Does anyone have an idea where I can do this? P.S.: If this limitation is achieved by a sim plen mechanical intervention (e.g. final stop at the gas train) would of course be all the more welcome to me…

I had to do some technical things (brake was fixed, fork leaking etc), now the engine comes up. Both cylinders have over 8 bar. It has a top spark of ignition. Even after 8 years the ignition can not have changed. The carburettors are tight. After 10 attempts candles out: are wet, i.e. fuel arrives. The only thing that comes to mind is carburettor out and into the ultrasound, o Although they obviously work. Or does someone have another idea before I get in the annoying carburetor – get out of it? Thanks in advance! Greetings, Uwe

Hello together With regard to the assembly of the hand brake cylinder I would need some expert tips. I bought a new repset, now the strange metal disc puzzles me, because I am not clear about the exact positioning (not least because of different statements of some people). My question is: How exactly does the marked disc have to be positioned? I assume that it is pushed directly after the 2nd cuff on the piston…and indeed so as shown on the picture. Or is icj there wrong? Thank you for your opinions. HP

Moin Moin.. I bought me a bolted-out xj900 4BB today. Has everything been done so far. Only cardan oil not. I read in the book that a SAE 90 should be pure Have here still from my oldtimers a fresh 75w140 GL6 stand …should nevertheless also fold or? It will be warm yes thinner than a cold 90s In the differentials of various oldtimers has always come a GL5/6 with as large a tension as possible of viscosity. Cold as thin and hot halt thick…should nevertheless not snow ll run back enough into the lubricating area? I’ve done this for years and never had any problems. Or is the XJ very sensitive? In the engine belongs a 10w40. Does someone happen to have the norm ready? Or is there an oil among xj’lers or diva drivers where everyone “swear on it” . Best regards And always a hand wide under the bug spoiler. What I just remembered. These shock absorbers have come recently just before tuv at the previous owner. Do you need an ABE or registration for? I didn’t tell him and he wouldn’t have cared about it.

Hello, we have here an MT-01 with just under 11 tkm on the clock, at which chips are now in the oil. It all started like this: After a small AU drive (about 50 km) we checked the oil level again. Much we noticed that the oil tank was completely full, and if you unscrew the track rod with the running engine, spray the oil against you. If the engine is standing, the oil was then just below the GFwinde of the track rod. Our first thought was: Sure, too much oil has been filled, so sometimes a The amount of oil went well, but there were chips in the oil in the size of sand grains. Do you have any idea what could have happened there? So the cart would have to have 2 oil pumps. Can it be that only the return pump works and the normal one no more? Warning lamps didn’t work during the ride either. We really don’t know any further

Hello dear forum, I’ve been thinking about buying a motorcycle for some time, but I don’t have that much money. Now there’s an FZR 600 Bj 94 with 51,000 Km on the clock in the vicinity. It’s asking for 400€. The machine has probably been logged out for 5 years and has been standing in a garage for 3 years. I’m not so savvy about the whole thing (that’s why I’m here) and wanted to ask if you should enter the offer. I wanted to get the machine to a Who next week. But things like TÜV, battery, tires, carburetor, gasoline, etc. are probably already on the move. Is that still worth a look or should you leave your hands off with something like that? If the result comes from the workshop next week, I would of course write it in here.

Dear Motor-Talk Community, I’m currently driving a Yamaha YZF R125 RE29 built in 2017. For a few days now, my shift lever has been jamming up or down every time. The lever is no longer or very difficult to move up even with the foot. And when it breaks off, it doesn’t sound healthy. What could this be about? I would be happy about answers. MfG!

Hello. I bought an old RD 350 351 and want to renovate it as a summer project. I started in the front and removed the fixed caliper. Rusted as expected. Someone has an idea how to get out the silver pistons that press on the brake pads (photo) I can’t find a starting point for levering out and they’re really stuck. Thanks in advance. Gruss, Uwe

Hello, I have recently also purchased a Yamaha DT 175 MX. Year 1981, credible 6,800 KM, two previous owners, really good original condition. The following problem: I now have to renew the spark plug for the 3rd time after only 100 kilometers of driving distance. Each time the gkeiche, new spark plug in (last also with new plug), starts immediately and has great performance. After only 50 KM the power decreases and a few kilometers the engine stops the service and does not jump more on. Spark plug bolted out, held to the cylinder head and kickstarter operated: As with the previous spark plugs, there is an ignition spark, but at the thread of the candle and not where it belongs. I have screwed the prescribed spark plugs of NGK (B8ES) and also once by BERU … with the same result! Can someone give me a tip where it is in the Ekektric or Ignition???? Greeting

Hello For years I have had a Bimota YB11 that carries the engine from the Yamaha Yzf1000r Thunderace. The engine now has 26000KM on it and shows the following problem.: When I had the air filter box off the carburetor and the engine was running, one saw on the carburetor from the cylinder 1 an outflowing air (mixture) column ???? In my opinion this can only mean one thing, an intake valve does not close properly. How do I go now best? How can I check the valve play, what must everything to be dismantled ? Thanks