Category: BMW Motorrad Forum

Since 1980 I have been the second owner of a 75/6 (90S equipment) and we have since completed nearly 300,000 km together. Never had trouble before, but all 100,000 new KW bearings and new upsize pistons as well as the usual (heads, clutch etc.). Now the next overhaul is on, the cylinders are at the end (2nd level). My question is now: Do I stay at 750cc with contact ignition as before or follow the recommendation of my workshop, on Siebenrock Power Kit 1000cc & Silent digital ignition umz So far, the cow has been running absolutely without problems for 37 years, only this stability remains with the increased torque? I am a relaxed driver, who can always be warmed up, but has also driven for many years for cost reasons 30s single-range oil… What experiences have you made. Best regards

Hello, maybe one of you already had a similar problem. I would just write down the basic data for you: Motorcycle: R 1200 R LC EZ 10/2015 LL: 16500 km connection guarantee since 10/2017 I have the following problem: My moped must now at 16500 km to the annual inspection, because since the last inspection 1 year has passed. At the same time, however, I would have to understand the friendly one at 20000 km again for the big inspection. That would mean for me that I have to have 2 x for inspection this year?! Once now (yearly inspection and 1 x at 20000 km probably then in September) I don’t want to risk my connection guarantee and therefore want to be sure. Mfg

Hi @ all, the SUFU was used but I really don’t come with it. It’s about the following. We buddies want to get together a readout device/sofware/interface to read out several BMW Möppis. This is about models like the Racer from the beginning of 2017 over the 1200 RS from 2018 to the 1250 models of the RS and GS from 2020. Now we ask ourselves the question whether it’s with a readout device/software/interface or whether the different models have different prerequisites? What can we read out all these models from the beginning of 2017 and also drive them? Coding would be an additional gimmick but rather it plays a minor role for us. I have for BMW car INPA and Rheingold and also D-Can up to e61. Can we do something with the right cable or have to start from the beginning? Coal is not supposed to play the big role at first, but also not to be completely taken off. It should only work reasonably for us all. Would be grateful for your experiences and your swarm knowledge. We don’t want to buy the wrong or double bin.

Hello, I have recently been proud owner of a S 1000 R year 2016 in full equipment. Customer service and TÜV were made new. After the first exits I have some questions: – The damping can be set to soft, normal and hard. But I can hardly notice a difference between the three steps. Is this normal? Generally I find the chassis in position soft very hard. Does it possibly work the variable damper setting with me? – Can you retrofit the switching assistant Pro of the current model, i.e. the blinker function to switch down? – I have the information that you can retrofit ABS Pro. Has this already been done here? What did it cost? – The clutch feels like getting used to it. When coupling is sometimes a kind of snap in the hand lever (unfortunately difficult to describe somehow), as if the coupling is somehow delayed or hand levers is delayed back to the starting position. If this is due to the anti-hopping coupling, if I have been asked for a quick answer or if you don’t know anything about it.

Hello together.. Has one of you already shifted a battery from you? And that is that I drive a BMW R1100Rt.. The problem I have is that I have no power connection in the garage and so that it can also not connect over winter. So I have to remove the side cover every time.. and that’s for…. So I thought to myself why put – I don’t just build it in the side case.. Has one of you already made this and can give me tips??? The cable are at the end provided with an eyelet (to screw it to the battery..) I had before the new cable then what goes to the battery with an eyelet on each side.. The one eyelet then stops for the battery and the other eyelet with the already existing with the help of a screw to connect with mother.. As a battery connected to cable.. Cable end also with an eyelet and then red with red … Eye on eye and then connect with a screw….. Isolated finished Would that work? or how thick would be attached to the battery?

Good day , With me it has happened for the repeated time when I press the Mode button during the ride from the radio (audio system in the left side panel ) ,the ignition completely runs out . Engine runs however , all ads in the cockpit , tachometer , tacho go out for about 30 seconds . After that both pointers from the rev meter and the speedometer hit again and everything is back to normal . Had the last year before . There was deleted the error memory at BMW . Was nothing in it . Should it watch . Now I had the problem again . Has someone had such a thing in style ? Thanks for your answers ,Help

Hello, with my K75 the starter is no longer working. Have already implemented all the tips of the specialists. Nevertheless, “glued” the relay during the starter. You can only stop the process if you disconnect the battery. Therefore, I have already installed a battery disconnector. I have already taken the following measures: – new battery worried because the specialists at BMW have said, that happens when the battery is too weak – without success – starter is replaced – it was the theory, the starter pulls too much power – without success – electronic box replaced – According to the circuit diagram the electronic box is controlled during the starter – without success – the plug at the starter relay has at the plus pole 2 cable – one leads to the starter button, the other to a control device. Have now separated these two cables. If I now push the starter button, which is connected only to the one cable to the starter button, the starter is activated – without success – the starter is activated and there is nothing stuck to the electronics operation. Probably because the starter is not activated via the second cable.

Hello, I have had a BMW K100 LT Bj. 1985 for a few weeks. So far everything is great with the motorcycle. However, I have a big problem with the wind noises. I am about 1.90m tall and sit with the visor just a bit above the end of the disc. So in the middle of the vortexes. The wind seems to be with a multiple of my other mopeds without disguise. From about 120 km/h it becomes almost intolerable. An even longer disc will probably not come into question. Therefore my question can recommend a suitable shorter disc?

New Michelin Road 5 + new brake pads. Since the beginning of April 12,000 front and 10,000 rear driven. Do not drive as wild as last year. Consumption also reduced to 5.5-6.0 Ltr on average. Very different driving feeling with the new Michelin again. Drives like on rails. You can feel the grip in the popometer. Luckily we can drive in the Lockdown Light from Monday, 03.11 least Moror wheel, if we still get some sunny days over 15 degrees. From today’s point of view in BW 16 degrees on Saturday, 18 Sunday + 21 degrees Monday. Starts well.

I had to switch to a BMW R850R after my driving school change, because in the other driving school (for class A) he was not clear with my driving instructor, he was pedagogically a smooth zero and he was not interested in what I was driving properly. But I was already driving over 6 years forest and meadows with Suzuki Dr125 and Kawasaki KLR250 and (Z650 was driving school machine other school) and yesterday the first time I switched to BMW R850R thought I was going to hit the beat. The slump is a bump I had never had any problems with my 2machines and the 1 in the other driving school. When I was switching and driving yesterday I thought what is that. When coupling it still goes from 1 gear to go but from 2-3 gear up and turn down is still to drive in my eyes ne ne mutung again and because Klackt (kracht)es down in the gear so that I thought the thing was falling apart. Have the one gear from Robur to turn off but the drive from 2-3 gear and turn down the drive should not be nice enough for me.