Category: BMW Motorrad Forum

Hello dear Boxer friends. At my R1150r year of construction 2004 I changed the rear brake pads with Teilintegral ABS and since the moment I have braked the brake at the rear is not completely free anymore so the wheel turns heavier at the rear than front and will also become slightly warm heist light blue the disc. The floating saddle is smooth-running exactly like the coverings. I have to say that the first time I got sintering pads in the trade. Can one give me a hint about what that may be, or if it only has to be dragged in longer.

Hello all! Motorcycle: BMW R1100GS, Bj 96 mod 97 1. Question: My dipped light has broken. Do you know which lamp I need and how to change it? (Probably screw out the part in the height adjustment??) 2. Question: I will soon install an alarm system (because europatour in summer). Where can I safely tap 12V? Is the board socket constantly under current? Could I get the juice from there? I hope you can help me… Thanks already Greetings, P.

It was Friday. It was Saturday. Then it was Sunday. The BMW R100GS needed blood in its veins. Mineral oil 20w50. Needs no modern car today. Whether car or motorcycle. 7 petrol stations of different brands approached. Result: always annoyed the same picture: on turnover trained nice looking female being at the cash desk. With NULL expertise to the ÖL. With zero knowledge about product range of the tank. Exception: “I get the boss. Moment Please”. loudly, “We only carry synthetic oil. The best.” Until he listened and understood that there was the other customer standing before him. His face flashed short, when I held the oil can from his shelf in front of him with the text on it: “…made of mineral oil…”. His expertise became fleeting. Therefore the question here in the round: Which of the many gas stations with brand name or free tank leads mineral 20W20 And abroad Europe? I took mineral 15W40. Result Oil Thank you in advance.

Hello together, someone can tell me how I can measure whether my battery will be properly charged in the built-in condition while driving. I have a 19AH GEL battery. I had it loaded with charger. In the moped this was then after good warm-up (about 40km) and subsequent service life of 3-4 days, again as good as empty. The spare parts specialist at Louis told me that the R1200RT would also consume a lot of power with the detonated ignition key, so that the battery after 1 week I can’t really understand, but maybe the battery is not so great anymore. Switching battery on suspicion is not so cheap. Let’s see who has experience.

Hello, after 34 years of Japanese and Italians I want a BMW now. Ride almost only for two and my wife finally wishes for a bike on which she sits well. In the eye I have a R850R or R1100R. BJ 1996 – 2003 can cost up to 3500 €. My questions. I read that both models are almost equally difficult. Is that true? It doesn’t matter to me on the lawn but cozy glide there on day trips. What for a 850 he speaks what for a 1100 he ? Greeting from Heidelberg Rainer

Hello, I’m thinking of buying a K 1200 GT. At the moment I drive an FJR 1300 (not four weeks) but I have some incidents that have spoiled my taste of Yamaha. One can say about BMW what you want, if you really have a problem, then try to at least help them. What that costs is the other. To the actual question: The K has 8 hp more than the FJR, is thus in the insurance but loose 180€ higher in the year, I see that somehow No. Now I have read in some tests that the measured power is somewhere at 145-146 hp, of course with a certain scatter. Now I have the following phantasm; how useful would it be to drive on a test bench and have the power registered accordingly? Probably the effort clearly exceeds the benefit, but the hope dies as it is known cruelly but last. LG

Hello together, I kindly ask for your opinion on this case: I take my mopped every two years to a free motorcycle workshop. I have been visiting these for four years now, since I have my BMW, because the champion has learned there on BMW and can also provide BMW. Since I have little time, but always want a well-maintained mopped, I give my mopped for maintenance with the following order: perform all necessary maintenance, change all oils and fluids, brake check. Change wear parts if necessary. Please ask me for any additional work required from your point of view and for higher issues please contact me. So now I had my moped there in winter and picked it up again in April. All the work was done, (among other things the brake pads were replaced) the price was also fine. Now I measured the strength of the brake discs (original since 75,000 km), front (set to: 5+-0.1 ; minimum: 4,5; IS : 4,1 !!!) back (Sell: 5 ; Minimum: 4,6; IS : 4,4 !!!) Since the above mentioned workshop stay the mopped was not driven 200 km. Now I am more than shocked. May something like this happen ? My question to you: how should I behave ? since this is the only Wekstatt, which is relatively easy to reach I do not want to go somewhere else. But my trust is gone.

Hello BMW-community, after I switched from a Yamaha to BMW K1100LT Bj. 92 it caught me cold! Already at the transfer drive ABS and brake control lights flashed unceasingly. Well, after the first fright I then tested the brakes and found that everything worked perfectly. Having arrived at home, I wanted to eliminate the cause of the blinking, which could not be so much to my first appearance (I thought!!!). After I arrived in the F It has become clear to me that it will probably not be possible to fix it with 3 – 4 handles. I have now already changed the rear brake caliper and coverings, because they did not look so fresh any more. BLINKING however goes on cheerfully!!!! The “problem” is that I have to drive them forward during the re-registration at the admittance point and with this “blinking galeria” will probably not get a license plate. I would like to fix the errors gradually, but I don’t want to fall into senseless costs and especially would like to get her registered for the first time. Is there possibly a kind, helpful BMW-Ritter here in FFM or near-by, who could help me with a bit of a screw-driver-technically? Because I see myself so slowly with my humble knowledge arrived at a border. Because the “Worst Case” would be for me if I had to sell the “beautiful Diva” again with a lot of loss as “defect”. zt already really looking forward to the planned BMW tours….. So if someone could help, would be great. Greetings from Frankfurt

Hey Ho, I’m playing just so easily with the thought of getting a R 1150 GS in the future. Well, of course, there are already some from 3-4 thousand euros, but they usually have a high mileage. Well, I don’t know myself so much about BMW. I’m completely new, was mainly on the road at MZ before and would like to expand my horizon a bit. From which mileage, or rather up to which mileage can you buy an R 1150 GS without thinking about it? And above all, what should you b I’m open to everything. Should just be a GS and from BMW. So something like the F 650 GS or the G 650 GS and and and. As I said, I don’t know how to do that.) Thank you already in advance for your help.

Hey, I bought a BMW GS 1100 Ez: 1995 with 85 tkm. after 50 kilometers I stopped, stuttered briefly and then she went out and didn’t get to run anymore. Seller doesn’t answer the phone ^^ Think he cheated on me, it’s all right with the lawyer. So now to the problem of the machine : ADAC towed her off to a free BMW workshop at about 22 o’clock. The next morning, I called and asked if you already did something. said: Has the key in, and went on immediately. Batt measured and said Batt defective, thought it was. He built a new batt and tightened the V-belt and both cylinders Sycronized. It cost everything 350 euros. I went there the next day, picked up, and after about 40 kilometers again the same, went out. Again ADAC called and they measured some things. Did not find any fault. alternator loaded 14,2 volts everything so perfectly. So back to the W erkstatt. Mechanic said he must look at what it is, but does not know such a problem. If it stands longer so 1-2 std then it goes on again, after a time it stutters short and goes out. The mechanic said that can already cost 500 – 800 euros, I put on it: what is then with the 350 euros from before. Thought the error is fixed and yet not, and now I have to pay again ?? How does it look the , I have to pay 600 – 800 euros again ? He thought that only the battery is defective t , but you don’t know ^^ paid for the Batt 140 Euro , so 210 Euro for syncronizing and setting V-belts ?? Is really much too expensive ? This is done under 1 std . And for the V-belt set and 2 cylinders Syncronize + new Batt insert 350 Euro is already a juicy price And someone knows what else it could be that the machine does not run as it should ?