Category: BMW Motorrad Forum

Hello guys, I have a R 1100 RT from 2000. It’s actually a quite reliable machine, but there are some mucks in it that come back again and again. My current problem: The display for idle (green neutral lamp) comes delayed or not at all. I already had to fix twice, that was not exactly cheap. The problem is, if I want to start the bike and the neutral lamp is not there, then I can only start with pulled clutch. One of you can tell me where this neutral switch is located and how to expand/exchange/repair the most skillfully. I would be grateful for a help. Greeting Dirk

Hello guys & girls, I was at my B M W branch this week and asked for a driver training. There are the following dates, which you can reserve directly with the NL Mhm 0621-8357400 or a nearby NL. I just thought that it interests one or the other and hope that I will not be submitted here SAME CHARACTERISTICS. I swear I have nothing to do with B M W (except that I have become a freak)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tra ining Basic course: 19.03.05, 17.04.05, 19.06.05 Training course: 20.03.05, 22.05.05, 16.07.05 The training should be very popular and would have arrived so far. Supposedly it should be a trainer, who also trains the Pol. motorcycle team in BaWü. Maybe you can see yourself at one of the above mentioned dates. Greeting GS Günni

Hello, first of all I want to say that I am currently still Yamaha fj 1200 driver, but am interested in a BMW. On Saturday I could drive the K 1200 GT and I have to say, I was surprised by the qualities. But now to the negative and my question. From 4000 unturns went a restlessness through the machine and at the handles and at the footrests was a vibration, which I did not like. The handle said that it is over after the 1000 km customer service. Who has also so Before you spend over 15000 euros, you want to know more about it. Thank you hennes588

Hello together, I would just be interested in what experiences you have made with above mentioned moped. My cow is year 1989 and since then I have driven only modest 85,000km. In addition to the “normal” wear parts I had so far the following defects: – 2x original spring leg (the third licks again) – starter – 2x carburettor membrane left, 1x right – gear outlet bearing at approx.80tkm (and I had the gearbox overhauled immediately) – both bearings of the Kardantunne lklinks rear – approx. every 2 years new gas trains and every 4 years new Choke trains – approx. every 4 years a new battery – steering head bearing at approx. 75tkm – clutch at approx. 50tkm The oil consumption is 0.25l/1000km. I gave the carburettors this winter for overhaul, because they could not be synchronized perfectly. Are these the usual repairs or did you have other experiences ? Greeting, rainman

Moinchen Männas, as I wrote some time ago, I have now bought a ZX 12 R, Model 04. So. The dealer, where I bought the machine, told me now to my astonishment that there must be special engine oil in it. Because of shear forces in the gearbox and so on. To the closer understanding: I have at home in the cellar certainly still at least 30 L in a liter-combined best mobile oil Syntetik oil, SAE 5W-40, API SJ/SF. So I imagine not to be quite so uneaten, because i I’ve also talked to specialists from the oil industry in detail. -I’s a really exciting topic, by the way. However, in the driver’s manual it says all API`s up to SJ funzen. Viscosity 10W-40. Good and beautiful, a 5W-40 oil covers this area. So it had to go without problems. Does anyone have any opinion about this? Could perhaps also help others who like me have always turned in good engine oil. In GSXR 1100, for example, also. What experiences do you have? Od He’s carrying your merchant what the boy means. I don’t care about the whole thing. As far as ersma. Until then and Tschö says Marcus

Hi all BMW R80R / 1992 My electric power source has the part number Bosch 0 120 340 008. The type of generator is G1 – 14 V 10 / 17 A. That’s all there is to say. Too little juice. At least the instruction promises 20 ampères, but it obviously doesn’t bring it. Diode plate / windings / stator / rotor: everything has been checked and ok. Pathogen voltage has it too. Who knows whether there are stronger versions in the same place, or whether you have a stronger performance class under the “engine hood war t? The only upgrade to a government regulator with higher charging voltage is more damaging to the battery (strong gas in warm weather, despite temperature compensation). I want more juice if I need it (nebula headlights / full light / dipped light). Fact is today that already with dipped light (1 x 55W) the battery is slowly discharging. That can’t be it. BMW still offers heating grips on this motorcycle model. That would make the energy balance better without heating handles. Thanks for your further answer mopi50

Hello guys! I spun around a little bit the other day again. I brought my 1100 GS to the screwdriver to have it checked out after just under 100 tkm. Then the question shot through my head what I should do, if it doesn’t do it for some reason anymore. I of course looked at the 1200 GS. But somehow I also came to the 990 KTM Adventure (I like it quite well). Now my question: How would you like to escape iden and why? Looking forward to reading from you mfG Jens

Hello forum community I have the opportunity to purchase an R100RT and wanted to hear the opinion of experienced BMW drivers. Now a few dates: – Built 07/ 1980 – 185,000 km – 70 hp – TÜV 08 / 2008 – 2 previous owners (1. previous owner has driven it 20 years and about 165,000 km; 2. owner has driven it 7 years and about 20,000 km – all repairs and inspections have been carried out in a BMW workshop and documented (from 1980 on) – had probably an accident, since on the left torrent l Scratches can be seen; fairing, handlebars, footrests, etc. do not show any damage – engine jumped immediately and runs smoothly and calmly (valves should be adjusted) – engine has been overhauled and a new piston set has been installed – clutch has been renewed – the general condition is very good; varnish looks good for age, no rust to detect – licks some oil (pebble pipe seals or oil tub seal) – test drive was not yet possible, d a sign off and location is in a lively residential area – Price 1750 € Now your opinion and knowledge is required. – it is worth getting this machine – you have fun with such a machine – how it looks like with repairs; you can do it yourself (Brother is Automobiletti and I also screw myself) – Spare parts purchase / prices for spare parts Try attaching a few pictures Thank you for your answers Greeting Funke

Hello, I – as a beginner – am looking for an entry-level motorcycle. A colleague of mine wants to get rid of his F650 to buy something bigger. Dates: Kilometer level is 29840 First registration was on 15.05.97. Colleague is second owner, he has driven it since April 2000, sit himself only about 10,000 km, mainly in nice weather. TÜV probably still has it until spring 08, if I remember correctly… We have not talked about the price yet, that would be m a first question, what you can demand or should pay for it maximum. Then I read here that there is not only an F650, but different… I don’t know the differences, but try to attach a picture below… Maybe you can also tell me what I should pay attention to during the test drive, and what I could then notice when observing (don’t forget: I’m a beginner AND tech layman…) Thank you for your help and feedback! SChö on Sunday the Cathexe p.s. wishes: HOW to cuckoo do I link the picture right?? I only have lettered salad and question mark!!

Hello, I’m thinking of buying an R. The price frame of around 2000 € is in question because of mainly four models: R 80 RT, R 80 GS, R 100 RT and R 100 GS. Which types are recommended? What are the fuel consumption and defects? What are the driving performance? I am a quiet driver, but I need torque and more than 150 km/h march speed should also be in there without having to squeeze out the engine. With my F 650 it went without problems and I think that the 8 00s make up their extra weight by more force. Or do you need the 1000s with 44 kW? I want to drive stress-free and confidently, not racing. Nevertheless, I do not drive slowly, because of the 70 km work path. Are the R-models recommended or should one take a K? Well, with my daily driving distance it should be clear that the reliability and the consumption are very important to me. I need a cheap vehicle, which does not let me down, even if one does not daily I look forward to your opinions! Greetings Michael