Category: BMW Motorrad Forum

If I have only 2 or 3 stitches left (100 – 120 km remaining range) and put the motorcycle on the side stand again, the strokes have disappeared at a restart, the tank indicator lights up and the residual range is indicated with zero. There is also no improvement during the ride. The fact is that the 100 -120 km remaining range before the parking has already been very well tuned. And how was it before? There is a maximum stroke that was again there after a short ride. The residual range never went to zero. What I don’t understand: the foil generator from 3 strokes should not be decisive any more, but only a calculation on the control unit is made. Therefore, a parking on the side stand should not cause any fluctuations on the side stand with only two or three strokes?? Because, according to my dealer, this can only be a software problem, but the latest one was played up without success. An exchange of the foil provider initially excludes my dealer, since the time limit is not valid?

Hello, I have seen a really nice R1200S in a parking lot today, great colors, simply chic. On closer inspection, I got dizzy: in the area around the starter and especially in the area of the lamp and the disc, the machine is incredibly rugged. After a tour with rain and agricultural road cover, the question arises for me: how do you get it clean again. The parked specimen was like from the brochure, flash-blank. My machine already decorates after a short distance at least one or other insect corpses, albeit considerably less than before. Everything on the BMW is also angled and shattered at the front. How by heaven do you get it clean again? Or do you just buy ‘ne new? Toothbrush and cotton swabs? The parked specimen was really flawlessly clean, including high-gloss cooling ribs. In Ernst, my previous RS had a largely smooth covering, sponge over it and clean was. Also the block had only a few dirt nests, no comparison to the machine seen. So, what is useful?

After inexplicable vibrations, so from about 135 kmh, I had the balancing on the front wheel checked. It turned out that the front wheel had probably not caused it. Only when the front tyre was installed (you could not push the thru axle in parallel ) much notice that the left front wheel damper was about 1.0 – 1.5cm longer. See photo. But exactly this damper, had only been repaired a few months ago, because it sweated. How can it be that you did not want to have noticed this in the BMW workshop when it was installed? Otherwise you should have been stunned, that the damper is now longer. My question to the BMW workshop was = What went wrong during the repair? After I asked the request and sent a photo with me. Answer BMW = This looks funny, but nobody would have repaired this so, we have to check it before in the workshop. My question to you = Who had something like this before? What exactly was the cause?

Greetings, after you gave me such great tips about the R1200R, I just dare again 🙂 Although BMW was never a topic for me as a Ducati driver, it is now the only one. I was quite sure that it will be the R1200R until… I have taken place on the 1200GS. Up to now my 175cm was an exclusion ground – until I experienced that even with the *räusper* size you sit wonderfully and safely on it. Now I would have the following offer: R1200GS, 5.2013, 19.000 KM Equipment: Comfort package, DWA, Touring package, Dynamic package, cylinder protection, service maintained if necessary Navigator IV, and original BMW suitcase system The price is – mind you with us in Austria (20% NOVA extra) Euro 12,600,00. What do I have to pay attention to? If I understand it correctly, the Dynamic ESA in the touring package is included – is that right? What do you think about it? Thank you for your help!

Hello dear biker joy of the BMW Boxer model series. I bought four weeks ago a BMW R1150RT, year 2004 (by private) and found after my first long tour the following problem: . Starting situation: 250 km country road behind me. The whole with several stops. Without start problems. Displays of the amatures – unobtrusive. 50 km before my destination parked on the side strip (motor parked). 5 min. later first start attempt. Motor turns hard and slowly. Starts however not. All lights in the amature board flicker. Short memory pause. Second attempt. All lights run out. Engine does not go through. One hour on my “private” pick-up service waited. Motorcycle pushed back and forth to a safe overnight parking place. Pick-up service comes. I make a final test …. and ….. the engine runs. (What’s going on here???) . At home the battery expanded. Checking out. 100% in order says the analyzer. . Is there someone who had the problem already? Could keep a message?

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Servus. Does anyone have a tip for me how I can read the error memory at ner R 1100 RT ? It goes off with a warm engine without notice and cannot be started any more. Starter spins freely, but start up is not. After half an hour waiting time it starts immediately again without murmuring. Kind of sounds like heat failure. What is typical of this model ? -NWS or KWS ? -End coil ? – or motor control unit ?

Hello dear friends, I would have liked to have upgraded to my K100 HYMEC Magura Hydraulic Coupling. Does anyone have experience with it? I bought a HYMEC with DEKo (so it means with Choke) There is different variant of Hymec. With me is 9.5 with decoration. It would be very nice if someone can help me love greetings Goobie

Hi people So far I have only run around in the golf forums or in the Guzzi forum, but I have run a K75 RT, so now here my question. The motorcycle is from 1992, has not yet run 60,000km, is in a very good condition and as a lack actually only a defective tanker, which I then exchange soon. The ABS is expanded and this removal is also registered. I do not like ABS. Now the actual cause of these lines: I am not satisfied with the windshield. It is the high disc, but from about 120 the wind disturbs. I remember reading that the K75 (K100) has particularly low wind noises. What disc does this low to no wind current have? One looks at pictures from time to time with discs with an upper edge pulled upwards. Would that be the solution? Or an electrically adjustable? Or such a narrow disc attachment? I am 185cm long and not a “sitzriese”, if I go about 5cm with the head down and forward, it becomes clearly better to sit down. Besides, I don’t like to change the idea of a closed helmet?

Dear Schraubergemeinde, here again an ÖL inquiry to the knowledgeable colleagues. For my new used BMW R50, built in 1959 I discover in the BMW original repair instructions of the Bayerische Motoren Werke AG Munich, the following specifications. Engine oil: SAE 40 transmission oil: SAE 40, from Fg.-No. 646 486 Hypoid oil SAE 90 rear wheel swing: SAE 40, from Fg.-No. 646 358 Hypoid oil SAE 90 rear wheel drive: SAE 40, from Fg.-No. 641 986 Hypoid oil SAE 90 According to the Fg.-No. of my R50, I would have to take for all SAE 40. Here my questions: What exactly is SAE 40? Is SAE 10W40 also SAE 40 or what would I have to buy? Even if I should take a test by BMW SAE 40, it would be possible or even better to take Hypoid oil SAE 90 for gearboxes, swings and end drives? Is the SAE 40 for the engine the best or if you recommend another oil?