Category: BMW Motorrad Forum

Hello, I had ordered a motorcycle according to my wishes from a friend, a factory member at BMW several years ago, this was then formally delivered to him, so that he was also registered as the first owner in the vehicle letter. The motorcycle then stood for half a year, until he could formally sell it to me with a few kilometers, which at the time occurred at the overpass. 1. If I want to sell the krad now: I now have to sell myself as a “second wheel” at the sales ad. sitter”, although I have proven to have driven the krad from the beginning (e.g. already carried out the first inspection after the purchase in my name, the initial kilometers are also in the purchase contract) ? I don’t want to get any legal difficulties on the one hand, if I pretend to be the “first owner”, on the other hand also take no big losses at the VK-price … 2. The krad is still registered to me, i.e. there is still the old drive Now I have discovered the vehicle letter, stupidly this was punched (by whom, unfortunately, I don’t remember after all these years) and stuck in the folder. So on page 1 the seal of service of the “first holder” was punched to a small part and in paragraph 33 (page 2, remarks) part of the tyre designation for the rear tyre “holed away”, however, you can still recognize the tyre designation well in the vehicle registration, otherwise only empty fields were punched along. My question : should I have a new vehicle letter issued to the registration office and me (now it’s called different), so that I do not get any difficulties with the future buyer when I sell it, or does this even raise the suspicion of a buyer, if I now “come” with a new paper with a machine over 15 years old? By the way, I also have an “EEC-conformity certificate”, here is also the back tyre designation, which is clearly stated at the Bri ef is just punched, I have to give it to the buyer, right? 3. I feel a bit murky during a test drive, because the bike is still registered for me, if the potential buyer is looking for the width or “builds” an accident. Is there a “pre-contract” for a test ride if necessary without a legal obligation for the buyer to buy the machine immediately – or how do you handle it with the test drive? Thanks already for your answers 🙂

Hello, can someone please tell me how the three crown-shaped mirror fasteners (clips) are made of spring steel, which are riveted to the mirrors with blind rivets and with which the mirror is attached to the bolts (part 03) on the panel. BMW does not seem to have them individually, but they may not be special BMW parts and therefore may be otherwise available. Of the six crown-shaped parts, on the two mirrors, there are some clips on three. Laschen aborted, whereby the mirror no longer fits properly tight. Thank you for your tips and help Liebe Grüße Herbert

Hello, I have to ask you this now. A well-known one who knows (as it is) who wants to sell his F800R. The price is unbeatable even for the mileage but now I have to know if such a thing is a good choice or you prefer to invest more. Here a few basic data: EZ 4/2010 about 45,000 kilometers down ABS windshield heating handles BC is supposed to cost almost 450€ Supposedly it has always been quite dangerous. But over three to four corners it says that Yes always! I would love to buy something but I don’t know anything about the condition! Are there people with such kilometers? Thank you for your answers

Hello together! Actually I thought that this would be a common topic for the old 2V boxers and the gearboxes with “permanent gear damage”, as I was allowed to read here 🙂 Long speech, short meaning… new topic My R 80 GS, year 94, with 90tkm gives from the gearbox funny sounds of itself. Especially with load changes, partly also during acceleration and, at irregular but short distances, in full speed comes a very disgusting screeching from the gearbox. As the ring spirits in the Lord of the Rings movies, to whom that says something… so not nice. Besides, as soon as this squeaking occurs, very unhealthy vibrations (in contrast to the engine bubble relatively high frequency) are transmitted to the whole machine. Does anyone have an idea what that could be? And further: Where I am already there, how much transmission oil eats your thickness? Is that normal that the 800ml should be as good as empty after almost 3000km? Already quite nice happy, isn’t it? Quite apart from the fact that the gearbox is completely dry on the outside, so no dripping sweat or the like?! Many greetings and already a big thank you for your efforts! Martin

Hi all, my GS is 4 years old Now the ABS has gone out and the braking force was 70% off. In the workshop a defective pressure modulator was found for which I should now cover 1700 € and bmw rejects a culant control. My ex dealer went bankrupt with which I had read the last 2 years already 6 ABS errors. His answer was always “battery too weak or sensor repositioned” etc. everything can continue. By the way, cih had in the meantime scho N 3 batteries worn out. Does anyone have the same path of suffering ? Does GS drive blind and deaf? Have any tank backpack and suitcase for R 1100 RS if anyone is interested.

Hi! Since 1980 I have been driving, with some breaks, Mopped. In the 80s it was almost exclusively Yamahas: – Xj 650 – XJ 900 – XJR1200 Then a longer break. Then: – Harley Road King and later: – Kawasaki VN 800 afterwards (at the same time) – a customized sportsster 883 – Dyna Superglide I sold the Harleys last year because I had to use more ADAC-pan help in about 2 years + have sunk several thousands in Harley workshops. And that’s why I’m looking for an agile, tour-loving, winding mopped. On an England tour I met a guy who swarmed me from his R (00 (or 850) GS and how many kilometers he’d already managed with it. In between I had a test ride with a Buell Ulysses XB 12 XT and was completely enthusiastic about the splash of this mopped. But whether it’s worth investing there is questionable. After research back and forth I stay with I would be interested to know: Which long-haul travel enduro from BMW in the price range of approx. 9000.-€ (+/- 1000€) for next year would you recommend? My priorities are: – reliability – low vulnerability to repair – average terrain suitability – must be able to take 2 suitcases + luggage roll or: – I want to be able to do spontaneous tours without being afraid that the car will give up the spirit…. H From there, for example, the following models are seen: – R 1200 GS (Adventure) – F 700/800 GS (Adventure) – G 650 GS (where the 48hp seems to me to be a little weak) Focus is on used, since the budget is less than 10,000€ (7-9k). Ideas? Suggestions ?

Good evening, I was on the road for the third time today with my new F800GS and worry a bit about the built-in throttle. I bought the bike in winter from a very serious about 35 year old man who had voluntarily throttled the machine to 35KW (so for him there is no reason to play the throttle). I also never did anything on the throttle. It is a throttle that was installed in a specialist workshop. As far as so good. Until ever I only drove with my father, who drives a 1200GS (110hp). He already meant all the time, that the thing goes for 48hp already quite well forward, so we did a small “acceleration race” to see if this is only deceptive. Both times I have been up to about 100 speed front. That has already surprised us very much. On the way back on the highway the machine then slightly descended about 195km/h (entered it for 155). Can the throttle become inaccurate over time and have to be reworked? I don’t like to be scaled up in the near future because of driving permission, because the machine suddenly has 70hp instead of 48. So my question: Is it all so normal or does something have to be wrong? I already thank you for the help. Mfg Benedikt Beck

Hello, I would like to hear your opinion. My K 1100 LT from/02/1994 only ran about 63,000 km and goes next days to the 60,000 km inspection in the BMW workshop. I want everything that makes sense, except brake discs, which are close to the wear limit, but simply cost too much and I am not a heater. I have not been able to find anything unusual, so everything is really precautionary. In the maintenance plan there are two things about the importance of which I referred 1. the chain tensioner shall be renewed at 60,000 km. The man at BMW in the acceptance of the repair said that was unnecessary and that would have been very rarely found necessary 2. in extreme operating conditions the gas turning handle and the steering bearing should be greased every 30,000 km. This has not been done yet. What do you think. Thank you for your help Herbert

Hello together, wanted to open a presentation thread, because I didn’t find one here in this forum. At 16 I did my A1 and was then accompanied by my Aprilia RS125 for 3 years, 45,000km. After this time my personal interests changed and I didn’t really have much time to go to the mopped, so I sold them. Well, ten years later, I did something crazy again, signed up for the A without restriction, and myself yesterday spontaneously bought a R1200RS from the BMW dealer since I couldn’t test it yet, I hope it was the right choice. I only want to drive in the summer in nice weather, but I also want to have the comfort to be able to drive alpine passes a week at a time. The 1200 GS was a bit too enduro-like (from the look, because I wanted to have a slightly more sporty motorcycle).

Hi guys, I probably have quite a lot of work to do on my machine over this winter. Now I’m unfortunately anything but a technician and honestly know zero with repairs. The machine, a BMW R1100R, is from 1999 and already has 116,000 KM around… For a few months I realize that the good guy no longer brings a train on the road. She gets on the revolutions while accelerating, but does not get all this on the bike. I can only Vermu My main question is now, how can I reduce the risk that a workshop will turn on repairs that might not be necessary at all? The replacement of the coupling is extremely expensive. And I can only trust that I will be properly advised at the workshop. If the machine may still have a value of 2-2.5k, then I have to make sure that the machine is properly advised at the workshop. I would like to drive the BMW for a few more years. Between March and November I actually drive up to 20-25 km of work distance every day, in wind and weather. I also like to take recommendations for good free workshops in Hamburg and the surrounding area. Thank you in advance for your help.