Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

In my 15 year old Ibiza I have seen that in some places (radius so 5-10cm) there are many small cracks in the paint. Looks like dried desert soil. But you have to look very carefully. From wide it looks like a slight dirt stain and is matt. Between the cracks it shimmers out silver, but it doesn’t rust. That there is no way to fix it completely is clear. Is there a way to alleviate it? Could there happen even more in the future (expansion, rust etc.)? Can such places be polished, or should they be avoided, which would of course look even more strange? Thank you for the answers.

Hello, my Z4 (E85) has set rust at the door. Of course at the fold, where you can repair particularly badly. Above the fold is attached a sausage made of sealing compound. My plan is now to cut away the sealing mass in the affected area and then remove the rust mechanically. Then comes the following: grating with Nigrin rust remover gel primer with Brantho corrux “nitro-resistant” varnishing with original BMW varnish from the can (colour + clear varnish) is on the inside, there is hardly a sausage from sealing compound to be applied anyway Spray the door from the inside with Owatrol (through the drain holes in the door) After a few days spray the door from the inside with fluid film (through the drain holes in the door) What do you think about it? Would you do something different? If yes, why? Thank you for your help!

Good day dear engine talk community, I had an accident this morning in which I drove into a guardrail. I probably flew out of the curve. My vehicle got it pretty hard. I insert pictures to illustrate the damage. My questions are now: Where do I have to go to get that repaired? What exactly is being done? And the most important thing is, what will it cost about? I’m in training and unfortunately I don’t have a lot of budget. That’s my biggest worry now. I don’t have any real damage on front and rear bumper, are just a few scrapes. That’s why I would have it done sometime. The correct damage is on fenders (driver side, front and rear) and the two doors. The vehicle is a Polo 6r Bj 2010.

Hello, my transit has put a little rust down below. no rusting, quite superficial everything. Now it should come still so 2, 3 times through the Tüv. Should I do a little more effort here, or would it be enough here if, for example, I went once a year with some fluid film? Or maybe all with Fertan infiltrate? A complete resealing at the specialized plant (safe > 1000€) is too expensive for me and I don’t think that’s worth it The whole back is the trailer coupling.. that consists of almost 1cm thick steel.. there is therefore rust relatively no matter Transit Box BJ 2007 150Tkm

Hi, I’ve been looking for a long time in the net but I haven’t found an exact answer. My question is probably not new. I’m about to bring my Ford Transit back to the front. I’m doing this for the first time and I’m confused about the different statements. My plan currently looks like this: 1. rust spots blank sanding with sandpaper 2. Place with silicone removal clean up 3. Place glue off 4. And here comes the cracking point. I don’t have a spray gun or compressor. I’ve made good experience with “Rostegal” with the frame of my trailer so I would like to use it here as well. This is available in the spray can. Can I take this or should I rather buy a bucket and apply it with a brush? Since the car is not a beauty I don’t have to renew before the original paint. For the renewal of the underfloor protection I already ordered Permafilm and Fluid Film Liquid A, should I just use it for the rust spots too? Or should I use something completely different?

Hello, I have a very urgent question because I only have a lift available this week! And I have smaller rust problems on my Volvo on the underfloor, have now removed the underbody protection as well as possible and would like to do the following: Rost umwandler 2K Epoxy Primer 2K Clear varnish Underbody protection My problem:Underfloor rust 1Underbody rust 2 As can be seen in the picture there are many overlapping folds and the underbody protection I also did not get out of every corner. So I won’t be able to paint? What can I do with this paint keeping order? Also the transitions to the old primer and the underbody protection worry me… Where should I stick off? Would you please me if you could help me! Vg Morten

Hello, I am now planning to treat my rock impact grating on the bonnet at the end of the week. I was advised to tackle the problem with rust converter. The day before yesterday I had taken the rust converter from Hammerite (can still be changed) and wanted to ask how I should proceed now. My thought was: sand off the rust spot with lubricating gel paper. Then let the rust converter on it and dry out. Now my question is: If you make the rust converter again and then make primer on it or can you just paint over it with the paint pen via the Hammerite rust converter? Because on the package it doesn’t matter that there is a primer in it. Would I be happy for advice. MfG, Ivo.

What I would like to do here is: to collect the experiences of members who had treated the body with visible rust spots 3 years ago. Interesting is what exactly was done, with which (chemical) means and whether the rust came back after 3 years (or earlier). I just had to treat my car and could not find any reliable information besides a cavity treatment test, which are traceable over several Jaher. Most people write about the just freshly performed rust treatment. But how that looks after 2-3 years comments then. So I will search the forum and ask the authors of the posts, which are for more than 2 years in the past, to post their investigations here by PM. Then one can learn from first hand what has worked and what does not. If you personally have the experiences, write like this too here. It only has to be enough time since the treatment has passed. If I know someone else who has done this, I would also be happy if you want to contribute to the thread. The Zinc wall can not do so originally.

Hello municipality, I hope in this themed forum I am in the right place with my problem: We drive an “Opel Astra H 1.7 CDTI DPF Caravan” from 2008 (KBA2: 0035 / KBA3: AHO). The color is starsilver-metallic (color code: Z157 XXVM). At the edge of the right rear wheel run and the complete lower edge of the right rear door the lacquer/clear varnish – slight corrosions are already apparent. The previous owner has already done two painting work at these places, but after the cold winter months “resolved” again and again under the clear varnish. On the pictures you can see details What can be the problem that always after the cold winter months these old rehearsals appear? Well aware that a statement without direct consideration of the car is difficult: Is there still the possibility to carry out improvements via “smart repair”? Can anyone recommend a painter in the area Cologne & Rhine Erft circle?

Hello friends, I have no idea where to put this post, you can still help me. I have a Mito QV he is very new just 5 months ago and has made it 3000 km on it. Have made the fatal mistake and let me put the original Alfa stickers on the left and right side. I went to a prof. folierer, but he has made it slightly wrong and cut them several times in different places through the paint. The plates are above the wheel box to the right. Have the stickers down and am to the paintr, because every paint doctor told me, there is no need to polish it. The end of the song is now looking like a paintr, on the left side he has got everything out but on the right he is through the clear varnish. Conclusion: Now it had to be painted again, it meant to make it too good?