Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello together, I want to “winter” a few small places with Brantho Korrux Nitrofest. Unfortunately, I had to find out that the stuff is quite numerous and can thus be badly brushed. It doesn’t go well and becomes rather patchy or blurry when brushing. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Of course, the can was stirred and shaken before.

Hey together, I have a question for you once. I bought a 2 year old Mercedes C class in black. Now, when the light was covered, it was noticeable that the door and the hood were repainted. The dealer had also told me that and it was not to be seen in the shop. He told me that the paint shop did not make the “finish” or the matching reasonable. He has now offered me to take the car back or make it professionally new. Therefore my question: if it prof Is it really not going to be seen anymore? Would I be very pleased with your advice.

Moin, I’m now finished with the welding work on the underbody at my Golf 2 (all that shined was welded ) Now I have a few rust spots under the UBS and flying rust spots on the underbody and a little rust on the axle bodies, since I removed the underbody protection + loose rust slightly and applied 2-3 layers of owatrol, very satisfied. Also on all axle shots etc I did this, there was only light rust, really nothing bad. How do I continue ? UBS wax od he Brantho Nitrofest+3in1 somehow with brush over (shit angled places) or just leave it like that with Owatrol ? According to my experience Owatrol has stopped rusting for many years and it looked like before .. because without UBS I would see if it would rust on. Underfloor does not have to look like licked, should simply work and keep. I don’t want to sandblast and repaint everything , but there are too few rust spots . ( Is a beautiful weather vehicle ) The rear axle I have only temporarily pinned in, which comes sometime new as it no longer looks beautiful and I then immediately have new bushings without pressing out these before laboriously

Hello, the following repairs are in place for my seat. Both fenders change and repair rosticles below the fenders (Fig. 1).. In addition, as shown on picture 2, screw a piece of the cladding back on. The workshop comes to 6 to 7 hours working time. Can this get there? Honestly, it seems to me very long before for the small repairs.

Hi, I have a question about the costs of repairing a paint damage on the bumper of a VW Polo. I drove back from the parking lot about 25cm, with bicycle carrier on the trailer coupling and missed the VW Polo, which was behind me. So I touched the front bumper of the Polo with the bicycle carrier. I then looked, (in the dark) could not discover any damage, but nevertheless exchanged contact details with the owner. Then the news came that he discovered a Macke, relatively small, 4cm long and perhaps 0.3cm wide. Now he has an estimate for 1,200€. (assembly costs, painting, paint material, shipment costs and almost €200 in spare parts). I don’t know this well, but I have the impression that this is quite a lot. What do you say about it? Thank you very much and very much.

Hello, I bought a V177 today. Colour is mountainrau metallic. The passenger door has a scratch that is right next to the door handle. I agreed with the seller that the complete door should be painted for this. I could cancel all this. What do you think? Would the color difference be visible with a good paintr (directly from Mercedes Benz) if the whole door is painted? Car is from 2019 VG

When I changed my bike on my VW-Jetta the jack slipped and caused a decent dent on the left threshold, which unfortunately can also be seen from the outside through the slightly high pressed sheet metal The opinion of my neighbour (Car-Mechanic): It is absolutely necessary to have the car repaired, because this way the next TÜV can not get through. The assessment of my bodywork workshop (where I was already a customer because of a small dent): It is absolutely necessary to have it repaired. However, the TÜV insists on it. Otherwise it refuses the plaque. Estimate: 800 – 1200 €) The assessment of my VW contract workshop: repair because of the TÜV absolutely not necessary. The dent is not contested from there. It is only important to repair the damaged underbody protection at the place, so that no rust infestation arises. Repair, if desired for optical reasons, comes to approx. 3000 €. The evaluation of a TÜV engineer, who is kindly the No reason for the TÜV to object or even refuse the badge. Can be repaired because of the optics, however, does not have to be because of the TÜV. And what do I do now?: I have covered the damaged spot on the threshold with NIGRIN long-term underbody protection (black bitumen) thickly. Now I wait how the TÜV will react on my next official visit in May next year. If the damage is not objected, the matter is settled. If it does, I will have it repaired then – and only then. Now, as a precaution or only for aesthetic reasons, spend 1000 euros or even more, I think it is unnecessary. Does any of you have any experience in this regard?

Hello to the forum, I spat some scratches and scratches on my car and then painted over with base paint and then with clear paint from the spray can. The result looks good in itself, everything smooth and flat and beautifully reprofiled. The problem is that the sprayed paint only shines matte and has a very light structure, similar to superfine sandpaper. The factory-side paint, on the other hand, is matte and glossy. The clear paint I used, ne I thought it was the spray mist and wanted to polish everything on high gloss (first with a sandpaste, then with a high gloss polish), but unfortunately it didn’t do anything, everything remains matte shiny…. What am I doing wrong? How can I really get the paint shiny? Thanks for all the tips!

Hello guys, our second car didn’t make it through the Tüv due to rust on the threshold. The lack was fixed. We got Tüv. I added the result to you as pictures. If it’s technically okay, then it’s optically ok for me. The black “mass” is slightly rubberized. Painting work was not agreed, but the result was somehow different. What do you think?

Hi, short simple question: What kind of glue can you recommend to stick to a plastic stick? It has got a little hare hinge (just a small crack below the recess for the fog lights). Is maybe 3cm long and doesn’t even notice, just wanted to stick something behind it for stabilization (the best thing that can hold out the next rabbit impact). Maybe someone has experience and can let me share it. Thank you. Greeting Me talhead