Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, I found out from my Peugeot 107 (purchased 4 years ago) that in the area of the sleeper and above the rear fender the paint and the underlaid spatula are tearing open. Furthermore, in the area of the sleeper there are other notch-shaped dents, which look as if they also want to tear in the near future. Here was probably a accident damage that I have never known until now repaired. A short test with a magnet shows unfortunately that the car in the in 1. Image blue circled area probably was spatted, whereby at the “stackiest” places the spatula must be >3mm thick (magnet drops off). In the green circled areas cracks can be seen. Therefore I ask myself the following question: 0. Why does the paint tear up there after more than 4 years? 1. How do I (provisionally) remove the cracks? Especially with regard to corrosion protection, I worry, since painters like to spat on bare sheet metal. 1.1 My current plan would be, in the cracks per Lackstift some primer and then brush in cover paint and then “seal” the whole thing with clear varnish. Does that make sense? 2. Is there any way to prevent further tearing of the varnish/splash? 3. How expensive would it be to have the whole professional fix? VG

Hello forum community I’ve been painting my first car for almost two weeks now (left fender; beetle). But now I’m completely desperate, because it just never works. Here’s the story: – Let paint determine and order cans to test the color tone. i.e. primer, filler, base varnish (Da Metallic) and clear varnish, everything from one source (123 lacquer). -Cot wings sanded, in rusty places except for the metal -Primary several times filled rt and then sanded – base varnish applied and after about 10 minutes clear varnish wait over it ->Result: a crisp orange skin and a matte varnish – thus clear varnish sanded again. But since in some places the varnish was a little thin I am waited again with paint over it -two days, base varnish sanded and with clear varnish over it ->Result: again an orange skin – clear varnish sanded again and again with clear varnish over it. ->Result: color and gloss grade fits, it is But at least an orange skin can be recognized. -So I washed it thoroughly and wanted to polish it (strictly according to the specification, so with a polishing sponge first by hand) ->Result: now the varnish is extremely matt and the orange skin is still there. After this experience I gave up now. I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I also paid attention to temperatures, shaking duration and ventilation time and still it just doesn’t work. I’m completely desperate. I wanted to but only do something good for my beetle and eliminate the color differences…… Can someone help me or tell me what I did wrong? Did I miss something? Also, that a polishing provides such a bad result for me is more than frightening. Should someone in the Reutlingen/Tübingen area be there, who might be willing to support me personally would of course be even better (of course if the situation is a little better). I am happy about your answers. njamin

Hello…. And here’s what I did yesterday; I painted my bike in the back as someone drove me in and I haven’t had the damage repaired since / did it myself. So yesterday I started, cleaned, sanded and then painted + clear varnish. (I didn’t need the primer because I got everything out. Painting looks really good (ORIGINAL LACK FROM THE SPRAYDOSE), but I have a few small things: – The clear varnish (My mistake) has smaller runners.. Do I get the 2000 wet sands out and can it polish afterwards? Or is it still too early and should first let it harden out. – I have light orange skin. Should I grind it or simply prepare it with a sand polish and a high gloss polish? Bzw. is that enough for the “original” shine? – The transitions are very “hard”. Can one improve it with a grinding polish and “soften it”? I know nothing about the car directly, but I didn’t know where to put it. Thanks for reading, maybe someone can help me. I don’t know how to save it, or should I just regrind it, paint it, etc.?

Hello all, with my Skoda Fabia (built in 2007) the sleepers have a light rust base. It is the bottom of the sleepers. 2 years ago I had already done something, but the rust comes back. I guess the sheet metal can be attacked again by stone strokes. I had sanded the rust as well as it went on and applied rust transducers. Then there was rust stop primer and underbody protection on it. Do you have any ideas how I can do it better, dami t no rust comes anymore or the varnish is better protected against rockfalls? Would it do something if I took normal black paint instead of the underbody protection and sprayed underfloor wax on it? For example this one here:https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=sr_1_1?… Thank you in advance.

Hello, I had today unfortunately a small stupid accident with my 523i am someone slipping while braking back on it The fender on the right is pressed but first has no really visible paint damage, gratifying would be for me of course if you can pull the fender back to its place of origin without having to paint afterwards, would that work like that? The bumper also has a crack and round the paint is bursting over there you can spat and varnishe or is there a danger that it will tear further under the new paint ? A few pictures are attached Greeting Flori

Hello guys, first of all sorry, if this has been treated maybe already 100x, but I just just stand on the hose, don’t come any further, and find nothing… Here’s my background: I have often painted small parts (door handles, mirror caps, etc.) by can, and the result has always been quite good. A few weeks ago I painted a bumper for the first time. Also got good. At my mother’s moose repaired a tear damage, spatulas (that was my first attempt) i not so good, but then painted, sanded, polished. Also good. Now I’m trying to paint a fender, and it doesn’t want to be anything (work like a hobby, i.e. with spray cans): Performed work: – fenders of course came to shredded, so with 400s the scars largely out, then 1200er, then 2000er (everything wet) sanded. – cleaned and degreased. – fenders made completely with rust protection primer – the upper half of the Koti with fillp Rimer made (there were all the scratches) – all sanded again with 1200er and 2000er – again cleaned and degreased – base varnish (1K) not covering over – maintained – base varnish covering – base varnish matt and rough and you can see the traces of the sprays (spotty) – again 1200er and 2000er – again base varnish, again matt and rough and flecky. – again 1200er and 2000er – Ne wide jet nozzle on the can -> spewed like sow. Mist. – again completely sanded from 400 – 2000. – Again normal nozzle on it. Again bad result. Spray distance: ~ 25cm, short spray runs with beginning and end outside of the workpiece Manufacturer Color: Multona (I have always used a new can has the same result so far) Manufacturer Clear varnish (as soon as the base varnish becomes possible): SprayMax (2K) Manufacturer Spray filler: SprayMax Paint place: In the carport in the shade (there are almost 0 particles & Viecher flying around – so far max. 1 inclusion with everything I have painted there) What the hell is different about the fender, like the X other things I’ve painted so far?! What am I doing wrong? I stand here like the ox in front of the mountain and don’t understand the world anymore About a tip or help I would be really grateful! Greeting, Alex

Hello dear community I hope I’m right here. I had my golf paintwork removed from an anerator and tested as well as certified paint shop. I did the biggest pre-work, removed the windscreen roofing windscreen wiper hood and components as well as glass pearl blasted. Today afternoon at 3 am I picked it up, unfortunately I was in stress and could only look at home properly. I noticed gross defects of finished paint and noses. What can I do about it? And yes a bill comes the days by post. Costs 250€. Picture 1&2 you don’t see so doll in the photo but it is immediately noticeable, here the color / clear varnish is gone. On the rest of the pictures you can see the noses and the completely run away varnish.

Hello together, before I finally spax the cladding parts on the walls during my motorhome expansion, I wanted to treat the cavities behind them with cavity conservation. One always left “Mike Sanders” but after everything I have read this is a) too elaborate in the processing (especially at the current temperatures) and b) currently simply financially not inside (one left of 1,000 EUR and more for a complete treatment) Honestly I have therefore the rather good The idea is simply to spray the Palatinate, where moisture accumulates with it. I would try to get a complete treatment of the vehicle next autumn. What could you recommend to me? PS: Should I be wrong in the care area, please move the thread to the godparents and mods.

Hello dear community, at my last HU a rust spot on the fender was classified as EM. The paint was not peeled off, but the examiner scratched something with the screwdriver. It does not seem to me to be safety relevant and the car (Passat B7) is over 10 years old and has 280,000 km on it. The examiner said that it had to be welded, but the workshop tells me on the phone that you can only replace it. Could you take a look at the picture. Bad luck with the examiner? Really swap, or can you fix it without replacing the fender?

Hello, I’m looking for a glue that can be used to glue plastic in the outside area. It’s about the wheel running linings of the Opel Corsa in the signature. There the front two shots are torn off on the driver’s side. A “plastic residue” (which is screwed from the wheelhouse) is still left, i.e. it would be glued to plastic. I want to make this provisional before winter, so that it is not completely torn off by the washing system. If it can keep great It is therefore necessary to have a suitable adhesive, which is… a, as tough as possible and does not drip and runs like silicone, so that the body plate is not dirty. b, still holds in small quantities (two points with a diameter of about 1 cm) c, withstands the ambient conditions in the outside area => What is suitable?