Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Dear MOTOR-TALK Community, I am facing a challenge with my spoiler and I hope for your concentrated experience and expertise. After about a week of driving time my spoiler tends to resolve itself. At the beginning I tried to glue it under a slight tension to prevent the coming up over the rear window. Unfortunately, this procedure did not remain successful and the problem persists. In order to counteract this, I removed the spoiler from the side a little bit. In my research I found the JB-Weld glue. Has any of you experienced this glue in similar situations? Or are there alternative recommendations for a suitable glue to reliably attach my spoiler to the rear window? Your support and advice are really needed here. Thank you in advance for your help!

Hello everybody, I have been victim of vandalism this evening (Happy Easter…). Does anyone have a rough assessment (perhaps from their own experience) which would cost a repainting of driver’s door and left rear fender (VW Scirocco, deep black pearl effect) in about? I am aware that a copainting is most probably not possible.

Now I came to the funnel to glue the car with stickers and foil itself. So rally numbers on the car doors, tiger head or skull on bonnet, sponsor stickers from motor oil companies, colorful (multicolored) decorative stripes, favorite bands, comic characters( Batman, Superman, Mickey Mouse etc…) etc. . I have no experience with it, just think that it is easier, cheaper and more individual if I myself mac he. On the whole I have colorful rally cars in mind. I want to include as little as possible (in the absence of experience, especially with curves, like wheel houses) the author’s edges. Wrapping equipment( rake, scalpel etc….) I have. Is there anything to say about this ?

Hi, I have to cut out a sheet metal about 120cm in length on my car and weld what new one in. Stupidly, underneath the veins run to the backlights in a plastic corrugated pipe. How do I protect them from the probably occurring spark flight while cutting out and welding? It is a sheet metal channel of about 7cm width. Is there a strip of a fire cover enough, or what do I take best? Greetings Chris

Hello together, I have to replace the thresholdrs at my focus. They are simply through. The new entry plates and the vehicle itself I would like to paint with 2K EP before welding on the inside. Question 1: Here is always only spoken of 2K EP Primer. Gerhard Holzknecht uses for example the 1-7520 Epoxy Primer Grey from DeBeer. Is the overweldable? On the product page I find unfortunately no information about this:https://tds.de-beer.com/en/show_region_productdocument s/europe/1-7520 Question 2: Is there any alternative primer that is 2K EP and can be overwelded? ————————————————————————————– Only informative: When the sleepers are in there, “kLine rust stop primer, transparent” comes on it so that I can observe the further course. In the case of rust on the underbody and in general: I stop it with rust converter. After drying, “kLine rust stop primer, transparent” comes on the underbody. If this is then dried through, I still process my “Presto” transparent rest and then observe the whole thing. ———————————————————————- My question only refers to the primer. The rest was only informative so that the big whole can be viewed. — Greetings attratus

Moin Moin, I bought a used one that has a scratch on the rear fender and already has a bit of rust. The seller gave me two paint pens (originally from the manufacturer, base and clear). I wrote to 5 painters and showed 5 workshops the car, the answers were either to expensive or so they have to go somewhere else. As only good offer there was a paint for 150€ net, unfortunately there is no workshop anymore Since the car is already 20 years old I don’t want to spend more money there and have now bought me rust converter and primer for 10€, so much so good, I think the rusts I get covered out, But now my real question: Since the primer, base varnish and clear varnish is so thick liquid, can you squeeze the horizontals with neat varnish and plastic card instead of additional spatula mass? And then I have read a few times what you can roll instead of spraying, works well? gt. The car is 20 years and has 150.000km which should last 5 years but if looks better than now would be good. So my idea to remove the rust, a little more primer up, on the old sanded varnish neatly up the new base varnish and balance out, then roll over and at the end clear varnish (maybe I still buy this as spray) up, polish and finish? So the new paint keeps on the old sanded and you can paint the paint with a foam roller ? I’ve done this a few times, but I’ve never done this big before. Thanks in advance

Hello everyone, have painted today. The pictures show the fenders of one of my 124 he Benze. I used the Spiess and Hecker Washprimer 4085 in grey. ground with 400 and then 1000 wet and everything with silicone remover. As far as good. The wings were smooth as the said babypopo. Then I took the Spiess and Hecker pre-lacquer in metallic…. everything looked smooth before the clear varnish order. Then after cleaning the gun I have the clear varnish (2:1 with Hardener….all suitable for the Spiess and Hecker mixing operation) applied…. The colour is nice and even, but the clear varnish is not as smooth as it should be….Orange skin is not yet, but I would like to get it even smoother. Data: (so I went ahead) 1. Painting took place in the new clean tent in my hall 2. Temperature approx.22 degrees 3. Devilbliss FLR paint gun used 4. Filter pressure reducer according to the specification of the precoat on 2.4 bar It…compressor is sufficient….old but no hardware store scrap 5. 2 layers pre-lacquer metallic (diluted with 20 % suitable dilution / adjustment additive bralith) 6. Ventilation about 25 minutes 7. Then apply clear varnish….1.5 to 2 layers (I have not changed the filter pressure, so continue 2.4 bar…) 8. since I have no suction, I have painted from top to bottom What am I doing wrong?????As I said, for the first time acceptable, possibly by later polishing improve g possible….but I would like to make it better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think one of you realizes what I screwed up!??!…..clear, a paint booth would be nicer, but. Pictures 1. with Washprimer grey Spiess and Hecker 4085 2. after the pre-lace order- smooth order 3. with clear varnish ….I then hung to the car too rough 4. here…Haube original and smooth….Kotflügeloberkante halt viel orangiger So keep the question, how do I get the clear varnish smoother…???? .less paint, more paint…longer intermediate drying/ventilation etc.???? As written, I’m just screwdriver, but willing to paint nice….do not know anyone who can explain it to me…so autodidact (-: LG

Hello dear community, in the context of a stupid carelessness I have to have my car repaired, see here:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…heiligung-bei-kasko-plus-t7427680.html On 16.03. the damage is evaluated by the friendly. However, since I have read and heard several different opinions about this, here is a purely technical question: The one says sheet metal exchange is better and more useful, since a sheet metal is so much better when first forming (accident) and when second forming (repair) The second says that it is better to bulge and, if necessary, spat, etc., because by changing the sheet metal the basic substance and structure of the car is affected and this could have a negative effect on the overall driving stability. Furthermore, all tinning or welding points INNNEN would never be sealed in such a way. I could now of course have the damage examined by several different companies and listen to their advice. But first of all, they can logically pay for what I see and secondly, I also lack a little time to do so. First of all, I’m concerned with the technical understanding of when to exchange sheet metal and when to repair it and why to decide. What do you say here the S-S-S-S-S-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C- pezialisten among you? Thank you in advance for your feedback! LG

Hello, can you no longer expect proper paintwork nowadays? We (free car dealership) have already tried out 5 paint workshops (there are no more around 30km). But of 10 cars it must be possible to get at least 7 or 8 properly. But again and again the same statements. …..Silver (almost all lease vehicles) almost impossible ….just paint the door…doesn’t have to paint the surrounding parts ….just at Ford there are 100 colors uancen….. etc. Can you confirm this? Or do I just have in my surroundings ….Pech?

Hello, I’m Marc and I’ve been reading here for a few days and just registered, because I’m very unsure how to proceed now. 2 weeks ago I bought a used one. With the certainty that I have to rework 3 rust spots, I first ground down in order to determine the real extent. The predecessor has already worked this place once before. How exactly can I not say. You can just see at these places that was painted. I ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! be read now ten articles and am more confused as before. Primarily it is about this place on the door edge, as on the photo hopefully to be recognized reasonably well.http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/trkantedmso49bfkn.jpg If you would like to have this over the winter as best possible, work therefore only with can painting. If the cash register is right again, I would have it done again. Now I do not get behind how to start. The rust has itself at the circular place g I will probably not be able to grind the pores “clean / rust-free”. The people of the rust protection depot shop recommend me as a basis: – clean grinding – Pelox or Fertan – Brantho Korrux “nitrofest” In a paint shop the procedure white was torn. An absolute NoGo with rust remover and BKurrox to work. Bad grinding, paint would tear, they said there. That would not work with any commercial painter… So no rust remover/converter, but: – blank grinding – Sikilicon remover clean place – glass fiber spatula – primer – filler – varnish – clear varnish The next car parts dealer is right around the corner with me. The actually everything I have listed before. Paint and primer as well as spatula he has from AUTO K and Dupli. Unfortunately no further choice. Is this ultimately useful or do I have to go further to search for the paint? Would be really very grateful if we could talk about it a little bit. I simply lack the back Everybody’s doing something different.