Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, I’m Marc and I’ve been reading here for a few days and just registered, because I’m very unsure how to proceed now. 2 weeks ago I bought a used one. With the certainty that I have to rework 3 rust spots, I first ground down in order to determine the real extent. The predecessor has already worked this place once before. How exactly can I not say. You can just see at these places that was painted. I ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! be read now ten articles and am more confused as before. Primarily it is about this place on the door edge, as on the photo hopefully to be recognized reasonably well.http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/trkantedmso49bfkn.jpg If you would like to have this over the winter as best possible, work therefore only with can painting. If the cash register is right again, I would have it done again. Now I do not get behind how to start. The rust has itself at the circular place g I will probably not be able to grind the pores “clean / rust-free”. The people of the rust protection depot shop recommend me as a basis: – clean grinding – Pelox or Fertan – Brantho Korrux “nitrofest” In a paint shop the procedure white was torn. An absolute NoGo with rust remover and BKurrox to work. Bad grinding, paint would tear, they said there. That would not work with any commercial painter… So no rust remover/converter, but: – blank grinding – Sikilicon remover clean place – glass fiber spatula – primer – filler – varnish – clear varnish The next car parts dealer is right around the corner with me. The actually everything I have listed before. Paint and primer as well as spatula he has from AUTO K and Dupli. Unfortunately no further choice. Is this ultimately useful or do I have to go further to search for the paint? Would be really very grateful if we could talk about it a little bit. I simply lack the back Everybody’s doing something different.

in the hotel because of a conference and read ne trade magazine. Title of the article see subject. In the text: Orange head on lacquer surfaces are according to the current state of the art completely normal. Several factory visits to renowned German car manufacturers confirm this fact. There are currently no ways to get this lack out of the world. At least not in Germany (aha but others can the ?) Note: The first section reads already well, Orang In the second sentence, however, it is already said that it is a shortcoming……… but let’s go further: windy processors and chemical salesmen try to make the customer know that this phenomenon is a faulty painting on the part of the manufacturer. (if it is a shortcoming I would also see it that way……) The layer thickness of the varnishes are however now so thin that a grinding off of the orange skin can have fatal consequences. A car is primarily a utility object and no Museum piece (hears)How many car owners can afford to show off your vehicle only a few hours a year? The vast majority use the vehicle daily for transportation and transportation….. ————————————————————————————————————— So, now you know, you are windy and do not use your vehicle as prescribed. So you yourself are the cause of the problem. Shame on EUCH !!! may evening still… 😉 Greetings KAX

Hello together, I had a wild accident with my A3 and, while avoiding the guardrail with the left side of the vehicle. At first I thought to sell the car, but I am attached to it and would like to have it repaired after all. Unfortunately, I took 4 months for this decision (used only as a second car) and now the TÜV has expired. Can you assess whether the damage prevents a certification of the test plate? I would be in front of the TÜV Unte search the headlights at the front and at the back, as well as the front fender the bumper at the front and at the back and the bonnet. Remain the side wall left… nothing is missing, but the wheel is no longer completely covered. What do you think a repair of the rear fender costs (without painting)? Do you have to cut the side part out or can you repair it? MfG

Hello community, I noticed yesterday when washing that at the bottom of the trunk of the paint has a discoloration. The scratch/riss is noticeable. Perhaps, which of you can give me here again precise information whether you can get this out yourself or what it is exactly. And especially if it should be done quickly. Is around a 7 gulf in the paint “Titanium grey”. A car should not be bought in the deepest winter.. E: That such a thing comes from a high pressure cleaner I can myself I don’t know if he was there before (before buying). I use a normal high-pressure cleaner (warm water) in our company for washing. It is also used for trucks. However, I always keep a distance of ~30cm so that the beam does not pop on the paint bundled. Greetings

Hello together, I had recently posted in the BMW E36 saves, where it is mainly about the rust at the dome of my BMW e36. Since this topic is not only a special BMW problem, I would also like to know the opinion and the experiences of other motor-talklers. The question is whether one would still pass the HU test which is due in August 2018 with the rust at the dome, which is not yet through. I would also have to have at least 1000€ in tires, and longitudinal steering bearings and the rear steering wheel bearings. n to invest brakes, which would certainly be worthwhile with another two years of Tüv. But can one create the HU, if the cathedral is so rusty? Or better off into the press with it?

Hello. My sister accidentally rammed a wooden fence pole with my golf 5 variant on the side yesterday. At this there were steel bolts at the top and bottom to take a gate that drilled into the car. (see picture) The result: two slit doors as well as a 6cm long hole in the threshold (see picture) According to her statement she has reached at most step speed, in addition to that the fence pole is enclosed in the ground and the ground is yielding. Is this a realistic price? How is such a threshold repair possible? Best regards to Tom? Is this a real price? Is this a real price? How is a threshold repaired? Is it a real price? Is it a real price? Is it a real price? Is it a real price? Is it a real price?

Hello all, I call a 96 Ford Nugget in Diamond White (Code:ZA) my own. He now has as expected bigger and smaller rust spots, which I would like to repair. To make this completely professional, the money and also the residual value of the car speak against it. Compressor oä. I don’t have either, nevertheless I want to do more than just clapping rust converters and varnish pen on it. Therefore, it will run out on spray can coating. There is an interesting Autolack online dealer, who also offers a good how-to. Nevertheless, I would like to ask here again for confirmation and advice before I start. In total there are three damage levels, in which I write down for short only the paint order: 1. Deep rust points 1K Primer filler 2K HS filler Spatula 2K HS filler 2K Base coat 2K Clear varnish + 1K Beispritzlack 2. Rust places 2K HS filler 2K Base coat 2K Clear varnish + 1K Beispritzlack 3. Smaller breaker of the top coat, because I have old adhesive This is what I’ve read out of the how-to. However, they work with compressor and co. no idea if there are all this even in the spray can. And welceh fillers I take best, there are countless different varieties of thick-sand fillers, epoxy primer, primer zinc, corrosion protection primer and and and and. Would be great if you could help me there. Greetings, Buxor

I came across the following offer by chance:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/260099711.html According to the pictures it looks like none of the airbags would have been triggered. 2 new doors would cost at ebay about 400€ together, a bonnet again 400€, fender front left 250€, bumper front 300€, headlight right 600€, mirror left 300€, windscreen including installation at Mercedes 1.100€. Rent a garage for 3 months each 50€ and buy tools 500€. Cost, anything but the windshield, I could install myself.

Hello all, I have a G class (W461, 290 GDT, 1999) that I want to use daily. There are various things to do and the paint is also a construction site. The vehicle was once orange and was commercially used. It was then painted white. On the coach a little has been rebuilt and there are 8 holes with rivets. These holes have to be closed. Also there is the problem that the paint peels off on the roof. There are only no places but can’t stay permanently like this. Before painting, I would like to mount other mirrors and implement other little things. My idea is now: to remove the loose paint on the roof and then stick on a foil. On the back, weld the holes, spat and prime. Then, I would also glue the back with a foil. The foils are white as well. If I then have everything I want, I would then paint it. So in 5 years or later. It depends on how I paint it. It is important to me that the car is conserved and doesn’t take any damage. What do you think about this path with the given challenges?

Servus, I have found rust on my car on the underbody. Now I want to eliminate it and see that I prevent the following rust. I have informed myself about so many things, but do not yet know if I have thought about the correct procedure. First I would remove the whole rust as far as it is possible mechanically with steel brush attachments for a cordless drill screwdriver and by grinding. After that I would use rust converter, I have used it for „Fertan-e Thirdly, I would then clean the places and prime them with a 1K epoxy spray, and then I would have used the “normally stable 2X 1K”. I would then treat the primed area with a 2k epoxy spatula and then finally spray with the underbody guard, the “underfloor wax of Nigrin”. Do I do something superfluous or wrong?