Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello @ all, I used to paint my rims myself a few days ago when it was still so warm. I used Dupli Color Aerosol and Dupli Color 2 layer of clear varnish (did stupidly think it was 2K clear varnish) Since it was the first time, I was really quite satisfied.. When I looked at them today, I noticed that with one very clearly and with the other a little less small micro cracks have formed.. First I thought it was the spray sealing, then sanded with 2000er wet and felt it a little better but unfortunately still visible when I light up with a flashlight. I have no idea why that is so, maybe it was the 2-3 days now just too cold on the balcony and the varnish is torn?! I also don’t look quite through whether it is the base or the clear varnish.. Strangely also, that it happened only with two.. Well, I wonder now what I should do. My Tend enz would be just another can of clear varnish, after I grind it with 1500 and hope that nothing will burst up. If the cracks are still visible, it is just so.. Or do you have any special tips? Thank you very much!

Hello, Unfortunately, someone scratched my trunk and I picked up my car from the paintr at MB today. At home I noticed then stripes directly at the edge of the lids. MB means this can only be polish and I should drive over again… But I can’t imagine that at best. That feels like it was right in the paint and I couldn’t eliminate the finger in any way… What does watch mean?

Servus together, I have to work a little bit between the bumper and the car at my focus because there varnish has burst off… there probably a little water has penetrated and it has rusted minimally. Then you will also generally look at the whole time and the possibly aborted varnish at the edge there completely 2x with Brantho Korrux Nitrofest roll over so that the sheet is again “airtight” and nothing can rust. After that I want this place with paint protection foil provided dami t the bumper there can no longer scrub.. on fresh lacquered spots this is probably rather bad… How long should the paint (with mounted bumper) dry before I put on the foil? How much hours should lie between the 2 layers at Brantho Korrux Nitrofest? Will it then dry for 24 hours (of course then without bumper) in the current weather before I bring the bumper back on?

Hello dear paint experts, now that I have been doing more and more on my car for months now, I venture to my first painting. It’s only about a PDC^^ However, if you paint it wrongly, it can also become unusable… :O I have an M-B CLK 320 in color code 189 emerald black metallic (see profile). I had the last PDC changed professionally, although it works in no time (read out the broken (from MB) already for the part number from u The problem is only the painting of the new PDC (KLICK)…. Should I fit in half way. In order to keep my question small, I have already watched and Googled many videos, but I still have a few questions: 1. Do I have to prime them before? They are already primed or? 2. Is the color of my paint identical to the color of the decorative strips? Does not seem like this in pictures (see Appendix). I know the color of my paint, a Where is the color of my decorative strip? ^^ 3. If jmd has an idea of a cheaper (similar) color, accept it gladly. My color seems to be quite expensive then… What similar in Matt or so should it do zZ would I buy this varnish fit or? LG and would be super grateful if you could answer my noob questions. ^^

I had my side wall and the wheelhouse welded, because my VW had the chamois at the typical weak point. I sanded the bare sheet metal with a 400 paper, then cleaned several times with silicone remover. I applied two thin layers of primer to it.This primer (click). Meanwhile, the primer is dried and you should apply the base varnish. I “measure” my paint and let it mix. If it doesn’t fit completely, no matter, How do I proceed now? The primer must be easily sanded (400s?), again with silicone remover embarrassingly clean and then 2-3 thin layers of base paint. Right understood?And with which clear varnish should I then complete the lacquer structure? I have something from Presto and still something from VW, which comes from a paint spray set.When does the clear varnish come on it? On the slightly wet base paint or only when it is dried? What I have, I still have f otographed, perhaps this elicits some missing information. Image of the base lacquer can, image of the “clear varnish”, image of the back of the presto clear varnish.

Hello together, recently acquired a used Toyota Corolla built in 2001. Now I noticed, with a close look, small stings or varnish bursts, on which the vehicle seems to rust. Pictures of this are in the appendix. Now the question: how can the damage be assessed? Is it enough to spray on it just a little rust converter, and then to provide the small places with primer? Or does it have to be done differently? I would be very grateful for advice.

Hello, I have here a piece of sheet metal that is rusty (see pictures). In the middle below the rust has already eaten away something. Otherwise the piece is still stable. The part comes from a lawn mower, and it helps that the grass flies in the right direction. As you can see on picture 2, the part is put down in a kind of tab. Above the part is screwed in. So in practical terms the part still does its service. But how long… I think it is better now to I don’t have any practical experience with the subject at all. Who can give me an assessment of what options I have? Is it enough to grind it down here and bang on it with a strong paint and primer? Does it make sense to spat the little piece? Or to make it new at the same time? Body plate is quite cheap to buy. Can you shape such simple pieces yourself? Or would a body maker have to get there? Or how about a car body maker? em 3D printer? First make 3D scanners out of plastic. White jmd what the fun costs?

Hello! At the moment I have an annoying problem with one of my vehicles (VW Vento, 96er Bj.). In the case of the box the rear wheelhouse is gone through, I now have a hole in the trunk. The pictures in the appendix should represent the damage: The rust has well wrenched over the years, especially the thick PVC protective paint has covered it well. Grinding, cutting out, welding new sheet metal etc. – that would be the usual program. Since I can not weld, I would have to forgive that. I ask the question: Is there also good (i.e. durable) alternatives to classic welding? Glue in sheet metal or close the hole with something else? The wheelhouse is probably not carrying at the place – or yet? I don’t know how long I will still use the car. 2 years definitely, because fresh HU/AU. Maybe after that still a HU period. The Ventos have no value anyway, since only driving until nothing goes on or gives away.

Hello all, I’m addressing the question specifically to the paintrs and Spot Repairers, of whom I know they’re jumping around here, but also to anyone else who knows what he’s talking about There’s something else on my TT that doesn’t follow the “only orange and black” policy, namely the stainless steel tailpipes (polished). Is some high-quality US Navy certified blablabla stainless steel. I have now been told that it’s no problem just to roughen the pipes with sandpaper and then mi My question to the experts: Before I ruin an intact 1000-EUR pot, do you think this will work and also last permanently ? Any tips what I should consider ? Thank you for any help ! Image: http://data.motor-talk.de/…driver-detail-57885888527989681.jpg Gruss, Celsi

Hello together, I hope you can help me. It’s only indirectly about car maintenance. I bought a new used one and there the bonnet was repainted because of increased stone strokes. The color should be Iridium Black. Now it’s the case that I only saw after purchase that fine scratches on the bonnet can be seen, which were probably created during the preparation before takeover. Now I have a bit polished and the scratch r were so far out, however, the problem is that these come back as soon as I rub over there even with my finger. The varnish seems to be super sensitive. But that also in other places of the car. Under artificial light of the garage this is more noticeable than in sunlight. I gave feedback to the dealer, who told me that a service would be possible for free from Kulanz. But I’m not sure whether here was not grossly wrong painted, if there so easily scratches come in. Wi rd the paint still harden? Does it make sense to report it back again? Did I assume at that time that I get this polished out without any problems, but did not see that this could cause small scratches again so quickly. Thank you for your feedback and best regards.