Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello I would like to repaint three fenders, the bonnet and the rear plate with my beetle. I had already got all the components in the can, but the result does not fit my requirements. Therefore it should be done right now. So I wanted to ask you now what I need and how I should do such a setup best? Paint should be done for reasons of space in the fresh air. Already available are: -Compressor -Pistole -Protective mask Wa i need everything? i.e. which water separator, which spatula, which sandpaper, etc.? How do I build up such a varnish? (so how and when do I have to grind, when is worked with silicone remover, how long must be ventilated, how do I have to adjust the gun, etc.) And it will be very important that the paint as well as the dilution. color is LC3T, i.e. base varnish with clear varnish. Where do I get the best with it and there is no orange skin and How much do I need? And then, of course, polish. How do you do it best and after what time? I know, of course, that there are a lot of different philosophies on the theme. And yes, I have already gained some experience and read in, but I want to know as much as possible to achieve a suitable result. I also like to try it several times if it has to be, I want to learn something, otherwise I wouldn’t be here. I know, is now a A little bit at once, I’m still looking forward to every answer. It doesn’t have to be that detailed either, I collect first. Before I register in the presentation thread: I’m in my pocket with Abi at the beginning of 20 and study architecture. I think you can’t be even further away anymore… Greeting Benjamin

Moin Hope, that here bodywork are professionals, and can judge the whole time based on the pictures, whether a repair is still worth it and whether one can still save the whole with fiberglass and spatula, possibly also with MAG welding. I can get sweater. However, have never done this before. Does one get such a thing as a beginner at the first time reasonably cleverly welded? Thought there on sheet metal scores and then pastel. I didn’t find anything on Google for the S203. Let’s say it’s 3-4 years. After that, the thing can rust on the junkyard. The cart has already got neat kilometers down, so that the engine or the automatic transmission probably won’t do it for long anyway. Therefore, no workshop is possible, as that would be clearly too expensive. Wheel boxes and door edges also have to be repaired. In a workshop, the value of the cart would be determined by three times the value of the car. e.

About 5 years ago, my A6 was completely refreshed from 1998 and all parking remplers removed from the previous owner etc., that was done by a paintr. Today I noticed that on a fender the clear varnish has burst off, approx. 2 x 1 cm. How can this be solved cost-effectively? Do I have to go back to the paintr or should I rather go to a SmartRepair operation? Or is this just an optical deficiency, which does not have to be fixed, because there is no rust risk?

Hi guys, I’m new to the forum, I signed up here because I didn’t find anything about it on the net and I don’t know any more about it myself. Vlt someone has an idea. So I always painted with a can and could gain experience. Now I got a Sata Jet 3000 Digital HVLP, today I wanted to test the part because an old Ford as a practice object, base varnish was no problem, when I sprayed the clear varnish the suffering went off, on the side part saw everything still wonderful from the clear varnish is well run into each other I had a plane surface, then already directly from the door it started that the clear varnish did not cover properly anymore but looked rather rough and like not so strong any more. Nozzle 1.2, gun set on 2 bar. As said side part was good and the rest directly worse. Have a compressor with 500L boiler with about 10 bar pressure. One thing I noticed, had set the gun on 2 bar and and when I painted after could that be the mistake? But do 0.15 bar have such a big impact? Thanks already

Hello together, I finished my first really bigger painting work on the weekend according to the motto “Learning by Doing” and already noticed my mistake in the implementation. Now I actually have a very neat paint picture. However, it looks like matt/light orange skin. Look at the pictures. My wish would be to take a polishing machine at hand and then go to the paint with a 2000s abresive polish. I don’t need a show & Shine Oberfläc he has. But the paint should be a little more shiny already. Do you think my plan works or will it only go in combination with sanding off? (I would probably leave it that way and try it again next season)

Hello, when changing tyres on my Golf VI I noticed that the sill on the driver’s side is pressed on a length of approx. 80cm along two scratches. The (admittedly unfavorable) photos hopefully let me guess what damage it is. Unfortunately I did not notice when I should have suffered this damage, which is very surprising to me. My questions to you: 1. How does one attract such damage without taking it along as an attentive driver? 2. Should this damage be repaired? 3. What costs can be expected? 4. How are such repairs carried out? 5. Is this damage – after a professional repair – indicated as “accident damage” when selling a vehicle? Thank you for your contributions, Michael

Good day dear motor talk community, I hope I’m right here, this is my first post on this forum. As described in the headline, it’s about a paint damage caused by myself. When driving out an underground car park I stuck with my back right side on a wall corner and it has already happened! I have now noticeable scratches in the paint and even small paint parts dropped off. I had also read in other posts how to get about these Could repair damage, but the scratches pictured looked actually smaller than in my case. Would my comprehensive jump in in this situation? My excess would be at 300€. Would it be worthwhile to drive into a workshop or switch the insurance to it? I already thank you in advance! Mfg

Hello, I am looking for a disc tinting film for my E30. Since I have an H plate number, the ABE for the tinting film may have been issued no later than 1998. Year of my car is 1988. Unfortunately I did not find a suitable one in the net or the ABE are not provided there to look up. Do you know a foil that meets this requirement or generally whether there is a shop only for oldtimer tinting films? Thanks in advance

Hi together, unfortunately I found 2 scratches on the rear of my A5 (black) and I have no idea where they came from. They are both to the left of the 4 rings at the rear. One about 6-7 cm and the other 4-5 cm. Since I was recently at the inspection, I asked what it would cost about there. Smart repair or polishing would not work due to the depth of the scratches. Therefore, the part must be completely painted. It must go away the Audi logo, which is broken. Since I have absolutely no idea, I just wanted to ask here if this is ok or something like that can cost. If you can estimate this with the data about. Thank you in advance! EDIT: I have now added 2 pictures, as you can see, the car is currently “something” dirty but you should recognize it.

Hello together, With my crafter there are a few battle tracks in the hold. Besides there are a few holes through rivets, with which e.g. several airline rails were attached to the walls (the rivets I removed, but there are of course the open edges and ridges. Before I start to expand the crafter (ground plate, insulation etc), I wanted to seal these blesurs so that condensation and moisture have no easy play. It is expressly not about kosmet It’s all about rust prevention. How would you treat the bodies? Does it matter whether the bodies will survive later? Note: The vehicle should be preserved later on. Have already been in contact with a specialist company. Only as a comment, if the topic comes up…