Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello all, I had some quilts in the back side of my car. Cut out, base varnish applied and covered with clear varnish. Spray box 2K clear varnish from Mipa in two layers. After the first pass I had strong orange skin, which I had then sanded and polished. Unfortunately, through the grinding shop there were some deeper grooves inside which I did not get out. Finally I had also sanded through in some places. So surface again roughened and again clear varnish in 2 layers. Again, the result is so that it has to be sanded and polished again in order to get a nice smooth surface. Shortly after varnishing it looks good, after drying then orange skin is there again. My question would be, is it at all possible to get a larger surface with a clear varnish spray can so that you do not have to grind again smooth? The rules, such as distance, temperature etc. are known to me and were also observed.

Golf6 1.6 – Mod. 2009 Hello all, I have already posted this in the model forum. But since I am in a bit of a hurry, I ask you again here. Could be good that one of you has already got a Golf 6 under your fingers. So, it’s about: I want to use Fluid Film to treat my sleepers/wells. Now I have found a 3rd row of plugs, which are partly under the floor cover. (see picture) I would like to know which H So far I thought that I only had to supply the outer and the adjacent threshold. Thank you very much! Addendum: I just got the information that the fuel line runs there on the side of the passenger. Should this cavity and the line be sprayed with FF there?

I had brought my 15-year-old car to a master paint shop, as the tail plate should be painted completely, an A-pillar and roof edge. My order was discussed in detail. Details like, emblems were left out noted, bar should be painted with license plates, rear window does not have to be taken out, etc.. I also said, I would like the 1A to stand there again, since it has now fresh Tüv and otherwise is in a really good condition. Only on day 5 I was able to pick up the car first. Whole car, including the painted spots dirty, thus a review not to 100% possible. A-pillar 3 dirt inclusions, 2 cracks and looks like pinned and a slicing for marking, which was obviously set wrong. fenders scratched at the back two large scratches. On the tailgate is again an emblem, should not be, lattice over registration plates was not painted. Rear window was removed however, so that the Le hrling that once did it, I guess. Slice glued in absolutely bad, you can see from the outside already, inside the glue swells out. Luggage compartment dirty, also the side walls inside. Black adhesive remnants on bumper and badger spoiler. Dachspoiler stacks from the glass pane, probably when lifting clean. Roof edge was also not painted. The rear flap itself was well painted at first glance, except at the edge at the bottom left you can see that there is significantly less material on it. t. 11 km the car was moved, although it is from the parking lot in the hall 5 meters. The best thing was then that this should go without a bill in hindsight. It looks like the shop thought, there is a 15 year old car, so our new apprentice can try it out. Doesn’t matter with such an old car. Then talked to the employee in a friendly tone, I think that was the brother, boss was on vacation, who tried to make this all nice. He said, the A-S Out of the blue he would polish (there’s not even enough material on it), he would make the scratch out, he didn’t even deny it yet, but otherwise everything stays like that. I told him I’d call back on Monday. I didn’t pay him anything. I honestly didn’t plan on it either. I’m pissed. I don’t want to know how they drove my car. What would you do?

Hi first of all was a reader so far and today I have a question myself or. Stand before a decision what I should do I apologize in advance if I made a mistake so understanding thank you My Golf 5 Ed 30 has a bit rusty on the underfloor so easy Have seen a video of Gerhard Holzknecht where he first removes the rust with the wire brush then brunox on it after drying rope grease My progress is first with angle loop He removes the rust with a pot brush Then brunox and afterwards rope grease But I also heard the underfloor protection on synthetic resin base should be good Do almost everything myself with the vehicle from the joint to the tooth rims but honestly with the rust I don’t know and paint also I know that no paint can remove rust for life but want I have a few years rest Please thank me for your news first [From engine talk from the topic ‘Edition 30 Unterboden’ overfeeling Rt.]

In a wild accident 2 bumps came into my bonnet. According to the expert, a NEW one should be installed. Whether , is for me the question mark. The workshop also after the 2nd attempt did not get a straight seat. Split mass and heights just don’t match. It sits e.g. before left higher and back right lower How big can the differences be. Vehicle was org. until then and accident-free

Hello together, before I finally spax the cladding parts on the walls during my motorhome expansion, I wanted to treat the cavities behind them with cavity conservation. One always left “Mike Sanders” but after everything I have read this is a) too elaborate in the processing (especially at the current temperatures) and b) currently simply financially not inside (one left of 1,000 EUR and more for a complete treatment) Honestly I have therefore the rather good The idea is simply to spray the Palatinate, where moisture accumulates with it. I would try to get a complete treatment of the vehicle next autumn. What could you recommend to me? PS: Should I be wrong in the care area, please move the thread to the godparents and mods.

Hello! A vehicle has fallen by the HU due to damage in the wheelhouse at the rear right. At the place is usually a metal sheet attached to the body, on which the pipe from the tank filler nozzle to the tank is additionally attached. When I had changed the shock absorbers 1.5 years ago, around the place was much wet dirt. Unfortunately there is no plastic covering there. I removed the dirt then, so that by the accumulated moisture and the It was too late and the rust was already there. Actually I wanted to take care of the place, but then completely forgot it. Now I was at the HU and was very surprised when the examiner suddenly stabbed around with a screwdriver in the back of the wheelhouse. The examiner dropped the vehicle (aside from a slightly adjusted headlight) because of it. I can only understand this very conditionally. The metal part in itself ha from my point of view, no relevance to the statics of the self-supporting body. The tank tube is sufficiently fastened above and below, so that there is no problem here either. Only the hole – thanks to the examiner – now created could be relevant. If I had thought of the place before, I would have done something in front of the HU that you do not see it. Probably not every examiner would have looked there either. That is at least my experience. Now he has unfortunately seen it. So it is repaired. Then: Weld metal sheet over it? Welding points or along the complete edges? Are there special requirements? Must there be welding points on all 4 sides or would it be enough on 2 sides? Full surface glued with body glue is not allowed, is it? It also has to be in some way tight so that no water comes into the small hole. The tank tube nearby can stay on to weld, right? Inn I’m thinking about whether I should give it to a body builder (what could cost such a thing?) or whether I try it myself. I don’t have much experience with bodywork. I’ve never welded anything like this before. I’d then go to a rental workshop where there should be a corresponding welding machine. With photos. Thank you very much for your advice.

Hello. I’m not sure if I’m right in the section of the forum, if not postpone it. I want to refurbish my Audi 80 B4 Avant. Now it’s about the underbody. At one point there’s good rust. So far I’ve done: extensively scraped everything with screwdriver, brush and fertan pinned on it (for first protection) currently it looks like on the picture. But I’m not really satisfied with it. How do I best do that? Please leads etc ignorant On tools I have: Handbrushes Brush for cordless screwdrivers Scharber For flex disks (unfortunately because of sparks in the tank) Sandblast gun Admittedly, I have never rusted a bottom. My procedure would have been now: Remove rust as far as possible, Fertan on it, underbody protection. By the way, when “pulling” with the screwdriver I didn’t get through anywhere Or are there other / better ways? Thank you already

nice afternoon, When my new car comes I wanted to have an underfloor preservation/sealing done immediately, had already asked at a car body builder/painter.. The car dealer doesn’t do it,or doesn’t like to do it… So far…but someone said that I should let it be,that would stink for months after the stuff in the car..don’t know if that’s what it is now? What do you know about it?

Moin, look at these pictures, there’s one on the back of this Corsa B, and there’s a dent. Can you work this dent out (let it) ? Inside the trunk you won’t be able to do anything, right ? I’d like to fix the Corsa, but if the dent is crucial, I can leave it.