Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

4 years ago I had conserved the underbody with Mike Sanders on both vehicles: in advance rust as well as it goes away and protected on thin sheets (wheel box) with 2K primer – on top of the grease, on the thick metal parts on the underbody, like chassis only the grease on it. Per vehicle about 4-5kg of fat has been distributed. Unfortunately the result is that in the splash water area the grease has either been rinsed off or what is worse it is submerged by moisture and it ro So there are always small grease spots on the bottom of the Mike Sanders fat. Only in the places where no splashing water penetrates the fat lies clean and full on it and even small rust spots are not rusting any further there 100%, the wheel boxes had now freed from the fat and there could have been the fat. Will the carriers and also the chassis carriers rust up and also take the transmission and the chassis out around there. Only how should the rust protection be carried out, so that the whole 10 years still lasts (vehicles are 2000/2004). Derusting as well as possible, however, does not always go blank but there are individual rust roots. Either I take Brunox Epoxy and brush the areas, however, is in the bag, which dries this stuff very slowly (months) and is therefore not suitable for an additional protection structure, especially in the splash water area t really or not so tragic? After one day it feels dry. I actually wanted to spray on the Brunox rust protection 2K-epoxy primer and 2K clear varnish, alternatively hammerite brush. Afterwards spray rope grease on it. Does anyone have experiences what holds and what does not hold?

Moin Just bought me a somewhat run down winter car (E81 130I), which I want to freshen up a bit, low budget. After the winter I decide whether it will be a longer term relationship and I invest more. How do I fare best with the clear varnish bursts? Sand on edges and fill up with paint pin? Does this also work on the bumper or do I need a primer? The last photo looks as if the paint has come up. I have already finished this However, even here there is probably only the paint pen, with spray can excrete, due to the temperatures probably at the present time.

Hello all, I leased a new car 3.5 months ago (Citroen C4 Puretech). Before the first time washing I noticed the following on the tailgate. I can’t quite imagine that it is a scratch due to the location (in a vault where you don’t actually get there) , the funny shape, The “cracker” is arched outwards. Can anyone tell me here whether it is a painting error? Anything included in the painting? If so, I should probably go to the car dealership (is a leasing vehicle).. Thank you in advance!

Good day dear motor-talker, my car (3-door Kia processed) has been sunk away from a tractor in the back left side. A passerby has heard the accident and only see the vehicle fleeing from the window without a license plate?! Well so far so bad…. Now I have suffered the following damage: see pictures My workshop has bulged a bit (see photos) because I do not want to pay more than 3000 euros for new parts and installation with the old car. The plastic inside still scrapes on the tire, when the wheel springs more strongly and my workshop meant the angular bumps will denounce the tuv. I asked at a body and paint shop on site and the boss said: “You don’t get that straight again with the best will. There you can mock without end and that won’t be anything” Now to my questions to the expert community: 1) What is necessary to restore the body to perfect? 2) I got the offer from a small bump doctor for 5 00 € net to grind off, pull out and make smooth, afterwards for about 600 to the paint shop to spat and lacken. Do you think that’s OK? I have no expertise and need a rough assessment, I only need good quality and durability important, no more. Spatch yourself and paint with spray can with black and clear varnish the dent doctor does not want, he thinks there will be no good at all. Thank you for your advice and your opinion on the topic ??

Hello, I bought a BMW 1er (model 2023) about 4 months ago. Unfortunately, a dent was caused with scratches on the driver’s door. The BMW workshop made me an estimate of around 3,500 € – I find it quite expensive for a dent! The car is still financed by the BMW Bank and I have a comprehensive insurance. In my contract documents it is not clear whether I can have such minor repairs carried out only at authorized repair shops. my question is: how could this high repair amount affect my insurance retention and damage-free class? And does anyone know what it looks like with the BMW warranty if I choose an unauthorized repair shop? Would that be my guarantee or other Some friends have also advised me to consider smart repair, as a good provider may be able to repair the damage much more cheaply. Does anyone have experience with it? And how exactly does the comprehensive insurance work in such cases – it is of course informed, just like BMW. Does such a repair have an impact on the resale value in 5 years? Thank you for all the tips and your appreciation Gen! I also added some photos.

Good day together. I currently own a vintage car and am thinking about giving him an H-mark. Since currently TÜV has to be made anyway, I would like to do this with you. Now I have learned, however, that for the coveted H-mark it needs at least the note 2 in the vintage car. The Peugeot is my first own car ever and I want to raise the whole project as an entry-level vintage car, with which I enter the oldtimer world. Unfortunately, my financial budget is somewhat limited, which is why I have only limited money for repairs and I also have to do a lot of things myself. Fortunately, the car is well equipped with rust technology. But there are also a few hooks. On the one hand, there is a more or less professionally repaired paint damage with dent from the previous owner at the back left. Furthermore, the roof sky also hangs inside. Apart from the two mancos, the car is a technically good condition. I’d like to get an assessment of what my chances are. I’d like to add a small video of the car.https://youtu.be/7zyzoT6vmZo I’d be happy about your assessments.

Moin, I recently bought a used one. During the visit I had noticed a damage on the door sill. There was the bare metal to see. I guess something hard druaf fell, not quite 1cm tall. The seller said he fixed that and just peed over it quickly with a paint pen. Unfortunately, I did not realize that because in the meantime the car looked further on. Now it was too late. My concerns are now, the s maybe the place under the paint rusts there and I thought I would kind of grind that away again and first put a primer on it and then paint again. However, since I am inexperienced, I would like to get some advice. Should I leave it that way, because “nothing else will happen anyway” or should I take care of it? I would first stick the place off and then work manually with coarse sandpaper, then still with fine afterwards and clean everything before I prime the primer g on it brush.

Hello, yesterday at 15/16° outside I had painted with the can (2k acrylic Unilack) headlights. I was finished around 5 pm. With the fingers the varnish was smooth and hardened around 7:30 pm. I thought anyway. Over night or evening it must have rained. And today it is totally flaky and rough… Should I just go over there with the green grinding polish of 3m? Or better wait another week? Or rather with 3000 sandpaper? Do I also have 2000s and 1000s paper Here. Ask for advice A photo:

Servus together, I had an accident with my A4 Allroad a half year ago and Audi “repaired” this. In case of damage of around 15,000 euro everything should be OK again if you get your car back. The first handover of Audi to me was disastrous.. Furthermore, I don’t want to go into it at all, since I had to give the guys in Munich a second chance. <- Insurance damage Since the car was again at Audi, I had to spend about 6 weeks wait, and then got back in. But then I noticed a few things that didn't warn before.. I assume that the all-road delusion was taken off to paint and then was not properly paid attention to during the assembly and anything that was emptied out, this resulted in these bumps, you press the area again something on then it is gone, but comes with the time again....behind the pictures and I would like to know from a paint professional of you what here the Ursach e could be. greetings

I bought the effect varnish 33311 via the large platform of L.-laden. Should look red/blue/violet. the varnish is colourless but after shaking there are only a handful of effect particles in the lid of the can. I can’t imagine at the best will that this will produce an effect! The seller asserts that everything is right – but also irons off the people who leave a negative rating. the question: does anyone have experiences with such varnish ? Fun How does the underground have to be?