Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, a rusty VW Golf (swivel and fender tip behind wheel box) makes me despair. It was tried to counteract with cleaning and wax, but did not help. The rust is there and now wanders along the threshold and also at the fender tip. The parts are screwed, therefore. My question: How do I get the wax from the parts? Warming and wiping with old rags will fold to a certain degree. After that with brake cleaner? With dilution? te? I would like to make the exposed rust safe with Owatrol and then treat it with a rust protection paint (Broxo 3in1 somehow so, forget name). Owatrol on the wax will bring nothing.

Hello, I noticed today that on the side skirt on the right back the paint bursts. There was not yet an external effect at the place. However, when I looked closer, I found that the lower part of the skirt on which the paint bursts is “soft”. I say I can press in with the fingernail. It is also on the front and on the left side. It is then a bit further on it is normal hard. I just informed a VW dealer, because I still during the warranty period (below he was 2 years old. I was still trying to make me know if anyone here in the forum has seen this before.

Hello together, I would be happy about experiences and assessments, because actually I didn’t have to deal with potential accident damage at all so far. I didn’t drive 200m on the way home from the holiday on my front door (of course!) someone in the back. In fact, a light rempler, I heard it in the car more than felt. Get out, look, with him it hit a cover under the headlights in the front, at my rear is original nothing No scratches, no bumps, nothing looks wrong. The parking sensors still work, did at least 100m further while parking their service. Now you hear and read everywhere about that, that under the bumper can do so much damage, even if from the outside little can be seen. The screwdriver of my trust spoke on the phone, he does not need to look at it, as I describe it, there is nothing. Would be nice. I have only two years to see the car. I have very little passion for cars, I don’t care about a scratch, as long as it doesn’t look like an angry ex-boyfriend tried to redecorate my paint. What I want is that a car will take me safely from A to B and will not have permanent construction sites that will keep me rolling at the screwdriver on the yard. And then I drive my boxes until no repair is worth it. So I’m absolutely not interested in having an opposing insurance company even more I just don’t want to risk being too reckless now and stumbling over some hidden structural damage later. Should you have that checked again? Or are cars so much sugar that I would have to be seriously concerned about it? And if you have someone looking for damage, who pays that at all if the result is “all fine”? Where no damage, because no insurance case? (As I said. In 20 years’ time. ==References====External links==

I had leased a VW Polo and returned it in July. I had a V.K. damage, with, among other things, a side wall painted. After the delivery I received a copy of the review: An optical check for pre-damage and a paint layer thickness measurement was carried out. In this case, repaintings were determined on the following body parts: – side wall left: 1,2mm – invoice and/or expert report must be provided. The damage was then reported to VW Leasing and, of course, repaired in a contract workshop, which tells me in a statement that VW does not make any specifications for the thickness of the layer. Now, the returning car dealership wants to have money for a rework. However, I only have this by e-mail and not in writing. I do not agree with this, of course. And I can’t just calculate “something.” How should I proceed?

Hi guys, I got some information about the rust protection on youtube and on the Internet and now I’m looking for some methods that convinced me. But here are some questions to the experts, it’s about a Corsa (B) Bj 86. I want to fix it up, and it already has a lot of rust, but maximum level 2nd tailgate and windscreen wiper hole (very typical) I’ve already done. 1) I removed the wheel house trims because under it was rust. Level 2. First hand-trosted, Otravol put on it, good Let Branto Korrux move in, and then nitrofest. Do I have to grind this now, and paint and treat with clear varnish? It is anyway then under the wheel house trim, one does not see the places. Or is with the painting then the protection better, because yes rain water runs in. Or is it only “100% perfect” with sanding and painting ? 2) For the underbody protection I actually wanted to take the “old method” of Georg Holzknecht. Ox epoxy on it, 2 layers and then rope grease. I am superior, should I rather do it like this: hand-stud, Otravolöl on it and then Brano Kurrox. I have so much of it left. But NOT 3 in 1. Can you recommend this to me? Can I then leave it on the underfloor unground? After that also rope grease on it? Or better clear varnish spray? 3) Car of my wife is a Mazda 2, Bj 2014. Has hardly any rust down. But it starts somewhere. treat the completely still according to the method of 2 ? As prevention ? Or only the few rust spots . Georg Holzknecht says in a video, when the rust is there, it is already too late . Thanks for your answers . It also goes links , I can read then myself . Yes , I know , rust protection is also “great philosophy ” and an endless topic , nevertheless , I am interested in your opinions .

Good afternoon, I would like to ask the crystal balls of the forum. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is practically impossible, but since this is about hundreds, potentially thousands of euros, I would like to risk the question anyway. Actually, the title is not correct, because I did not go into a pothole here in Spain with my Skoda Yeti, but into a gulli, on which there was no lid on it. The front right tyre had a crack afterwards. In the case of a “Banco de Alineation”, i.e. a stage where the correct alignment of the wheels is checked by laser, it came out that the wheel is moved to the front right by about 1 cm to the rear. One should check the front axle or the axles (?). In addition, one has to have checked if necessary with a “Bancado Skoda”, i.e. a Skoda dealer with alignment bench, where one can fix a possibly warped chassis again. is it possible that the chassis has been warped by a single blow to the front right of the wheel? Best regards, Michael

Hello, there’s everything in the subject. Did I discover this the other day, in the tailgate so close to where the lamp is located, no matter if that’s the right black tone, I could just brush it with Hammerite, rust converter/protection/painting in one? LG MarMor2000

Hello, short description. Had had a Macke on the Mercedes repaired. After 3 months of service with the paintr, several painting attempts ended it now in court. A small Macke became an endless paint shop which ended with the whole right side had to be painted in. Damage was actually a small Macke on the right upper side part, which should be fixed by smart repair. However, something was always messed up… End of the song, painted 4 times, paintingunun g itself ok, color but not quite hit. Sure, with silver metallic heavy… nevertheless, a small difference between left and right side is to be recognized, as well as trunk, bumper and side part and right side looks a little brighter. Expert, court, cost of over 5000 euros. Opponents also have to pay… wait for the written judgment and the money. I now keep the money and live with the small difference or let me do it, at the risk that it will again n ix will? Car is year 2014/65,000 km. Would you like to hear your opinion and how you would act? Reason or the Monk in me? LG

Dear Forum, I’m just trying to get to the tank of my motorcycle and hit a few challenges here… The tank was simply puffed over by the previous owner with spray can paint to repair a few bumps….The oversprayed paint was matt black and looked admittedly also pretty cool on the bike…unfortunately the quality from the spray can was accordingly, so after some flies, some gasoline etc the tank looked eggy pretty rough. now first with 300er wet sanded and then again some places with 400er. In some places were very stubborn stickers, so I have there a little too much sanded away…. partly the silver original color through, over the red primer up to the yellow primer… On the smooth surfaces can get the with sticky ground well under the grip, but the same happened to me also at the edges of the tank, because here were some scratches…(see pictures i The original silver varnish is well sanded everywhere… I wonder now how I should get to the edges…. I can imagine with two variants: 1. just leave it and try to balance it with a layer of adhesive ground next locally, then a second layer fully surfaced over the entire tank? 2. completely expose the edges to metal, and then create the transition on the ‘levels’ surfaces with adhesive ground…that means adhesive ground on top and then with nem 800er n assschleifen… I think it would be too elaborate to completely de-lacquer this thing…for what I want to amch: Matt-black,1 to two layers, then matter 2k clear varnish on it… can someone give me advice on how to proceed best? Thank you! Stefan

Hello community, in the evening when I parked my front at the bumper unfortunately added a small dent to me exactly along the contour… on the varnish there were minimal cracks that I should get back with a paint pen. Since I am inexperienced and can’t assess the situation to what extent I can fix this myself I wanted to hear opinions if this bends back into the original shape with a hot air hairdryer or hot water? For ideas or other n Tips would I be grateful! Or do you recommend me to look directly for the way to the workshop? Thank you.