Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello forum, I got a 20 year old Daihatsu applause. The car runs perfectly, has only traces of use, has a good 50,000 km down (so nothing), the body is stainless. However, I have a rust spot on the underfloor about 20 x 20 cm2, which has to be welded according to TÜV. When buying the vehicle I was not informed of this damage (is that any one?!?). The TÜV man said that the rusting could not be created within one year in this way. Is there such a thing as a reason to take the seller into account or is it more of a “bought as seen”? After all, the car is already an aged piece… I would be quite grateful for comments. Greeting Veronika

Hope I’m right here;-) and that the bumper sets off at my A6 Avant and too easily on the exhaust (double exhaust left and right one). When rolling out mostly, don’t give gas. Say there’s a kind of rattling sound with a deep bass tone, for which one or the other may be cool, but it bugs me;-) please don’t change suggestions like bumper etc. If everything is checked out and triple made, was worse at the beginning now is already 70% gone, more goes abe r not.. My question is, what can I clamp/glue between the exhaust and bumper so that the noise is dampened, or is started? Does it have to be fireproof? Since the exhaust is already getting relatively hot in the summer? Bzw tailpipes. Does anyone have a good suggestion?

Hello together, someone scratched my side with his key. Some places go up to the primer. Since my car is a little older, it is not worth bringing it to paintrs. Especially because it can happen again at any time. It is a fit 3B. Built.99 Since it is otherwise in a good condition, I would do this scratch as well as it is possible to fix it myself. I also watched some videos about how to do something like that (That’s the first thing you could do). But I wanted to hear your opinion again. My procedure would then be: First washing. Grind scratches with 1500er wet. Clean with silicone remover. With a fine brush draw the scratch with the corresponding varnish and fill it. Let dry (idea how long???) With 2000er grinding flowers Wet plan grinding. Repeat the process if necessary. Then clean with silicone remover. Apply clear varnish (Is there clear varnish for painting???) Drying let ( idea how long???) clear varnish plan grinding. Regrind with 2500er and 3000er sanding flowers again. Make clean and then polish to make it shine again. That would be my procedure now. Even if it doesn’t get 100%, better than all times determined. Perhaps a paintr could comment on my procedure!!! Thank you very much! Patrick

Hello, I’m thinking about painting my mounted brake calipers, only what kind of color do I use best, it should be a bit heat-resistant, I think, to paint the best???? Also the price is a topic, I don’t think so much of a sett, I already have wire brush and brake cleaner.

Moin. My car (E-Class EZ 05.2014, 65Tkm, obsidianblack metallic) just returned from the MB workshop freshly repainted. There, 4 weeks ago – in their care – the bonnet was ruined. 3-4 bumps/delles, partly up to 15cm long and perhaps up to 2-3mm deep. They wanted to iron this out again. Because of impairment and doubts about the successful, permanent repainting I actually wanted a new hood. However, if I refused their insurance. I can still see where the quirks were. Is that normal and do I have to accept that? Am I too demanding if I expect to see absolutely nothing on the hood anymore? I mean the question seriously, because I don’t want to complain about it again with the nice master at the friendly one. But actually it can’t stay that way… If I sell the car soon, even a layman who looks closely. May ic h sell the car as “accident-free”? Do they have to pay me a compensation for the reduction in value? Can I ask for a further repaint or even a new hood? Thanks for helpful answers and best greeting from the northwest Jörg (photos of the damage BEFORE the repainting I add, even if you can’t see much.) Have been looking for longer now and hope to be right HERE with my question (please don’t try again to support another forum). g would be 😉

Hello together, unfortunately after removing the chrome I noticed that my frame is torn (not broken but torn). Question: Can I glue it with glue and then paint it properly or does it travel me right back when clipping in? I would still have Pattex Repair Extremes there e.g. gluing, grinding, fillers, grinders, primers, grinding and then 2-k varnish and then clear varnish? Or should I leave it and order a new primed one for just over 100€? 🙁

Hello together, there is a black line on the paint, as seen in the photo. The paint is not damaged. I suspect that it is some kind of plastic abrasion. How can I get this, as gently as possible removed? Paint is flawless and new. Thank you for your ideas! Best regards, Markus [translated from Motor-Talk from the topic ‘Remove plastic abrasion from the paint’.]

Meal, with my 06 Golf Plus they failed to take care of the well-known rust problem about the license plate lighting early on – with the now unsightly consequences for me. I tried to get VW for it, but it will probably stay stuck on me. Since the car is in my possession, I regularly grease up there, so that the rust does not wander around the tailgate, but this is not a solution in the long term. So how are the chances that I’m afraid that if I remove the rust there, there’s nothing left to build on. Edit: due to construction, it rusts there from the inside to the outside. Best regards

Hello experts, My Golf had an accident in 2009 (!) (passenger side. Door, B-pillar) – contact with a pendled trailer – and was repaired in well-known specialist workshop (m. E. “Platzhirsch des VW-Gesellschafts” in the greater Nuremberg area). Painting costs over 2,300 €! In 2013 we noticed that on the painted roof in height of the B-pillar the paint had discolored and had partly broken open (the vehicle is used almost exclusively by a driver who naturally höc This first complaint was accepted by the above-mentioned company and fixed for me free of charge. After a further 2 years, i.e. 2015, the same game again. Incident caused surprise to the company’s manager. Nevertheless, the damage was remedied and I was informed that the repair was now more extensive, but lastingly carried out. Hardly 3 years were over, the paint is now flipping off flat, just like lls on the roof of the passenger side only towards the A-pillar. Obviously, the previous repair attempt has led to the laugh now going off at a neighbouring place. The “namous” company now rejects any further discussion or even a repair after a short, rather displeasure-marked examination (conversation in toto max. 5 min.). My questions to the experts: Are the paint removals explainable? Is the behaviour of the company (up to the GF) explainable? n / should I do (technically / legally – turn on RA, or make fist in the bag)? Thanks in advance. HGB

Good day, I saw today after the visit at the hardware store a dent on the left sill. Where this comes from is a good question, but not the main focus of this topic (I suspect curb, i.e. self-inflict, but then the whole thing would have pulled on the whole sill, instead of leaving a bump on the spot?) Now I wanted to ask, is something so important to treat, so I mean, “why” would it not allow this to be done the next few months. t I know are sills carrying components and also has a lot to do with rust protection and galvanizing. But as long as I don’t do anything about it, the sealing should still be intact, right? Maybe someone could tell me what costs I have to reckon with to have this repaired? Tomorrow anyway will look again at a paintr and get me a quote. The vehicle is about a Honda Accord (8 Limousine)