Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello dear community, as described above, I wonder if I should paint my aluminium paint or prefer powder coating. It costs 200€ for all 4 and the powder coating 150€ per rim!. It’s just winter rims with which I drive little. What do you recommend?

Hi together I’m just about to paint my cabrio. As far as everything went well. Now I notice that when it stands in the sun or heat gets off the paint again. Vehicle has been painted for 2 weeks now. If it’s cold everything is good it gets warmer, so it’s in the sun you can leave fingerprints in the paint. Mixing ratio of clear varnish and hardener is 2 to 1. Have now applied to the sample some of the base varnish on a sheet and that now already since a It is not dry it adheres properly to the finger. Can it lie on the base varnish that I leave fingerprints on the painted parts behind? I have to say unfortunately the vehicle is Bj 1990 and the base varnish is original from the vehicle manufacturer so believe also about 25 years old. Is that it? If yes, it can cure out. But still?

Hi people, if you want to make such a place (see photo), where only the bare sheet metal is still present, not nice but “safe”, what would be the best and easiest solution? Say it should be weather resistant or remain stainless in the long term, but the optics is indifferent. Is there a kind of transparent protective layer that is easy to apply? Would have found e.g. the following medium (https://rustpreventionmagic.eu/…/rust-prevention-magic-110ml-4oc), but since the surface area hi I’m afraid it wouldn’t be so great about the paint… or no problem? That’s why I’d like to have other suggestions. Thank you in advance.

Hello, don’t know now if I’m right here in bodywork, but it’s about the door. Yesterday at the storm I want to get out and open the door, at once the wind sweeps the door open and pushes it to the front. I immediately pulled it up again, but now it’s open almost at 90 degrees angle, I can really cry. Besides, it doesn’t close as easily as before. I have to hit harder because at the place where it falls into the door lock, now it’s a slight grinding noise, so As if the Tùr were too high or too low. What happened there and what does it cost me? The car is 5 years old I definitely want to have it repaired as it was before. I suppose the door gripping tape has to be changed. Is this very elaborate? Does the door lining have to be removed? I hope that this is not an elaborate one.

Moin. My previous owner or whoever had drilled two holes into the body for his shitty plastic plate holder. At the front and back, each one is so far apart that my normal “XXX – XX – XX” plate plate can cover this just like that. I fixed the plate plate with these velcro tape holders and looks chic. Now I want a plate plate with only one digit. I already reserved one. The following format: “XX – XX – X The problem with this is that the holes at the beginning and end will look out at the body, as they will then become nixjt more cover. Does anyone have solutions like me can cleverly cover them or something like that? Maybe a blind cap on it so that it looks like the additional sensors for the PDC?

Moin, look at these pictures, there’s one on the back of this Corsa B, and there’s a dent. Can you work this dent out (let it) ? Inside the trunk you won’t be able to do anything, right ? I’d like to fix the Corsa, but if the dent is crucial, I can leave it.

Hello community, my bike box is pressed in after a small accident and the paint is “easy” off Since my focus is now 10 years old and I will only drive it for 2 years everything has to be done by myself. My plan is to remove the wheel, just like the tile in the wheel run, and then simply pull and hammer from the inside against it. Afterwards I will grind everything off, amateurishly spat and paint with spray cans. The one or the other will now spin already. i the performance but I just want to drive 2 years and preserve the body as well as possible. It doesn’t have to look nice! Are there other methods like pulling with hooks or similar ? And yes there has been expertly spat before if it is recognized. Thanks for the help and if you want to let me get closer to it I have to let you disappoint I am a student and close to the cash register

Hello Forum members! Have the following question to you? I am a trailer on the restoration and would like to paint it against a rusting base. I let it sandblast and then directly painted it with Alkydharzprimer red brown. Now I do not know exactly how I should treat the trailer further, that it is best protected against rust decay! All parts are no longer visible at the end, so can also be applied thickly with the brush!! Please for help, thank you! Marco

Moin I have to grab the welding machine from my sister for the upcoming HU at the Toledo and weld the sleepers (and perhaps even more). In the absence of affordable pre-cast plates it will probably lead to the “flicking” itself to tinker from (uncoated) sheet metal. Only the question arises to me how I can protect these sheets from further corrosion from inside so that there is still something of this protection even after welding. r tells me about a “welding spray” but when I look at this it just seems to be for a better welding result and not a permanent corrosion protection.

Hello together, as described above, I need a few tips from experts. I have a car with hail damage which I can call my own. I ordered everything from Amazon and wanted to get started. Unfortunately I do something wrong. After a few times the upper part of the train adapter breaks again and again. can someone tell me how to pull out the dents properly? how exactly do you have to put the train hammer on? you have to exert STANDIG pressure on the train adapter and then up zi or just stick and pull? How do you do that?