Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, we recently had our car in repair shop after an accident (was not our fault and was fully taken over by the insurance company). Basically I am satisfied with the service, however, I had to find that there are a few noses and/or inclusions in the newly painted areas. These are to be seen in the attached pictures. My question is now whether this is normal or should I claim it? Of course, it is not a bonnet now. ch. But on a 2 year old car already stupid. I already have an appointment with the workshop so that they can look at it and try to estimate how much “pressure” I should do … Thank you in advance for any advice, Michael

Hello guys, I would need your opinions here as to how best to precede these dents. I’m looking for a cheap way to fix the dents half way, now doesn’t have to be perfect or how new. If an aluminum vacuum cleaner comes into question, the dent has to be pressed from the inside out, … ? I’m looking forward to your answers/opinions. Thank you very much! LG Daniel Wolfsteiner

Hello everyone! I have a question, and hope you can give me some answers! ?? I work in a doctor’s office with main and branch office and went from one practice to the other on 03.09 at noon by bike! On the way I wanted to throw in some official mail, and to do so I put the bike on the bike path for a short time! Unfortunately much this around, when I just threw in the mail, I caused a scratch on the fender in a parked VW Golf! I have a lot of fun! Then directly the police called and reported the accident! This took the accident and I got an accident protolle! Unfortunately at the time I had no valid liability insurance.. (yes, I know, pretty stupid, but that’s another story ??) The owner of the car did not contact me, although he got a cell phone number from me by the police! I wrote it on 09.09., with all contact details etc! The police had taken no photos and in Prot I just wanted to capture how it had happened, but no photos were taken, or to capture exactly what damage it was! Today 05.10. I finally received an answer to my letter… he could have reacted to my letter now because of a move… and would now make the car look at a car body workshop! Hmm… can someone tell me what cost is coming to me? The scratch was max 5 cm long and maximum 3 mm thick. I’m just trying to attach a photo that I’ve taken myself! It would be great if someone could give me some information ?? Thank you so much, Nicole

4 years ago I had conserved the underbody with Mike Sanders on both vehicles: in advance rust as well as it goes away and protected on thin sheets (wheel box) with 2K primer – on top of the grease, on the thick metal parts on the underbody, like chassis only the grease on it. Per vehicle about 4-5kg of fat has been distributed. Unfortunately the result is that in the splash water area the grease has either been rinsed off or what is worse it is submerged by moisture and it ro So there are always small grease spots on the bottom of the Mike Sanders fat. Only in the places where no splashing water penetrates the fat lies clean and full on it and even small rust spots are not rusting any further there 100%, the wheel boxes had now freed from the fat and there could have been the fat. Will the carriers and also the chassis carriers rust up and also take the transmission and the chassis out around there. Only how should the rust protection be carried out, so that the whole 10 years still lasts (vehicles are 2000/2004). Derusting as well as possible, however, does not always go blank but there are individual rust roots. Either I take Brunox Epoxy and brush the areas, however, is in the bag, which dries this stuff very slowly (months) and is therefore not suitable for an additional protection structure, especially in the splash water area t really or not so tragic? After one day it feels dry. I actually wanted to spray on the Brunox rust protection 2K-epoxy primer and 2K clear varnish, alternatively hammerite brush. Afterwards spray rope grease on it. Does anyone have experiences what holds and what does not hold?

Hello dear motor talk’ler, now I need your expertise too… A few weeks ago I was driven by some jerk to my Skoda parked in front of the house. Of course he didn’t ring a bell to report the damage. Now I have had the damage checked and the repair costs put at 1500€. I am now faced with the decision to have the damage repaired about us insurance or to do a fictitious billing. Since the car has already 190.000km on the clock and 10 I tend to make a fictitious reckoning and would only have an achsvermessung carried out for safety reasons (where a damage on the axis is very unlikely). Now my question: do I come with such a damage over the TÜV or is that rather problematic? Btw: Blinker is a little loose but functional. Thank you and many greetings!

Hi unfortunately my bumper is ground and the edge is gone Is it still to be saved? Since it is a US bumper you get this hard So if you can bring it to the original condition What would this cost about? Bumper should be completely painted because of the rockfalls The edge is so to speak gone as you can recognize in the pictures Lg

The old bonding still holds well. However, it has become particularly brittle at one corner. I removed the mutilated mass and would like to seal with disc sealant. I have some experience with silicone and acrylic. However, this is hardly helpful with the sealing compound of Würth with the short application advice. What tips do you have for me, which leads to success. So far it is only a “battale”. No networking agent is used. How do you get a smooth surface? that the whole mass comes along at the time of tapping off the supernatant? Does it make sense to stick off? Thank you for your interest in my problem.

I have an Opel Corsa D built in 2012. My father kindly wanted to treat me on the weekend. I bought extra underbody wax for it. Before I knew it, however, my father put used oil (old used motor oil) on the underbody with a compressed air paint spray gun in the front area of the car (wheelboxes, engine compartment). I then shocked him that this is forbidden nowadays and that waste oil is toxic. I now make myself responsible for several points. 1. Waste oil contains highly toxic substances such as heavy metals and toxic hydrocarbons. When spraying, a real steam cloud has formed, which has emanated from the cracks of the bonnet upwards. I am very worried that these toxic substances can now also penetrate the inside of the car via the blower / air conditioning system, since traces of waste oil may also have found the way to or into the air intake. 2. Waste oil contains certain substances (acid Ver 3. Waste oil attacks rubber or plastics. I am concerned that the respective parts will be eaten. Once I have noticed this (the front part of the car has already been treated), I have immediately subjected the vehicle to an underfloor washing machine in a nearby car wash, but this will not be able to undo the process. I am very happy to be able to do so. Do I have to worry that the blower will cause harmful heavy metals or other toxic compounds to enter the interior? Does a maintenance of the air conditioning system from the specialist workshop help here? Do I have to worry that the rubber/plastic parts in the engine compartment/wheelboxes will now be damaged?

Hello, I am about to finally miss my beetle in the self-built paint booth its final color. However, the longer I read in forums, the more uncertain which products should be used, I would be happy if someone looked at my planned paint structure. I stay in the “MIPA ecosystem”, nevertheless some components do not tolerate and from the data sheets I unfortunately also become not always smarter. r partially sanded down with the eccentric on the sheet, with the blank spots of a maximum size of 15 cm^2. Warm air ducts and fenders are completely flat. The rest of the old paint was sanded with P180. Now to my lacquer structure: 1. Large free surfaces are thinly fogged with Mipa EP-Primer-Surfacer. 1.1 Plastic part is sprayed with Mipa 1K plastic primer. 2. All the spots that have been pressed and the small blank spots are sprayed with Mipa 2K-HS-Grundfiller F 54. ht 2.2 The whole car body is sprayed with Mipa 2K-HS-Grundfiller F 54 2.3 Control black is applied and the car body is sanded 3. MIPA P99 Multi Star is applied to the still coloured areas 3.1 The spatula is sanded and possibly another layer is applied 4. The whole car body is sprayed with Mipa 2K-HS-Grundfiller F 54 4.1 And once again finally sanded (P400) 5. The one-layer Mipa OC 2K-PUR-Autolack HS quality is sprayed in two layers 6. Possible post-processing In addition, I removed rust from the “rain channel”, which created a groove there. Can I simply paint it normally, or should I seal it with spout mass or seam sealing MIPA PU400? Is this how it works? I would be very happy to receive feedback ;D When I finish (sometimes) I share my experiences with the self-made paint booth very gladly with you.

Hello people there is a bump doctor among you who can give me a tip On my bonnet at my Seat Leon a bird crashed, I can’t explain it to me but still a bump has arisen. What do you say you get the bump out again?! Can I do it myself if necessary. Thanks in advance