Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, in my search for a fender for my Audi B6 convertible I came across the following offer: https://www.ebay.de/…/273563047890?… Is this serious? For the price I can’t even get one with scratches from the recycler. Would be great if someone has already had experiences.

Moin! I was just restoring my VW1200. I am a trained car mechanic and had repaired “little things” and also welded. I had already got advice for welding. Once about the book:https://www.shop.oldtimer-markt.de/Praxishandbuch+Schweißen.htm And then also about the YouTube tutorial:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VaBdlTDbcE Theory (on smooth sheet metal) and practice differ however then quite well …. I had immeme between the setting of the welding points. r cooled, tw even with copper sheet and wet rag. Nevertheless, the sheet has more or less strongly deformed. What can this be about? Split distance of the sheets too low? Whereby is spoken in the tutorial of 0,3mm and there are more. Or still too much feed? Thanks and greeting of the “Stevie”

I just found a rusty stone on the car (Vento 1996). Sitting exactly at the edge of the roof skin, where the winshield is glued in. I hung the pictures once, on one or the other one one will hopefully recognize the damage. I now thought to grind the area as well as possible. After that, if pore rust is present, with the old BOB (The with the high Is.cyanat portion) this “stop”. Primer and cover varnish…. or are there better methods? Fragli It’s just, it looks like under the rubber– fuck–

Tach together to take a lead, the Sufu has already spit something out, but the answers I got there were not extensive enough. To the problem: I would like to get on the “new” car of nem buddy from me before winter, which has in some somewhat difficult places light rust base, no rusts. The places are in the wheel box and at the threshold at the transition from the threshold to the fender. My adjusted procedure would be so far that I with the Dreme l thoroughly grind away all the rust, then use rust converters, then spray car paint and clear varnish over it and finally spray underfloor protection from the can over it. Everything naturally with appropriate drying phases in between. Would in this case the means, apart from the car paint, I have a car paint shop at hand, which you generally get in the hardware store and with car accessories chains enough for it or should it be something specific? I would have another can of iron glitter thick layer paint in the basement and still a can of Hammerite, can I use something of it? I wanted to inquire about your opinion, because I didn’t want to go off, spend money and then get said that there would have been better things for the money a corner or if my buddy already entrusted me with the rust control at least good work. MFG CP

After months of searching, I finally bought a car. It’s a Opel Corsa D with 90 hp, it was bought a few days ago for around 3000€. I had opened the hood to clean the engine. Then I told my girlfriend that I was finished. She wanted to close the hood, but she thought that the hood would be hydraulically operated. So she was trying to push the hood against the “stand”, and now the hood is bent. The hood is right bent, quite strong even. It goes to, but you can clearly see that there is also a dent of “below” where the holder / stand is. Can I do something cost-friendly? Doesn’t look good, but is honestly not such a big problem either. Experience halt. Be a photo post tomorrow as it looks. But it’s a pity that the hood was made so cheaply…… To be honest, it didn’t expect a bonnet to be so simple verb Maybe it’s because my cars have been quite old and robust so far.

Hello, I have bought a used MAZDA 5 CW, vehicle is in an absolute top condition. I could not find any defects at all and the dealer was friendly, even changed the brakes because of the rostrand, new TÜV and inspection done. I am very pleased with the car. What makes me stuttery I look under the car, I see a lot of superficial rust e.g. on some axles / joints. Also on the thresholds below is superficial rust. It is not dramatic, With the screwdriver test nothing is through, only superficial. Has my Renault e.g. also. But my BMW E60 is already 18 years old, BJ 2004 and does not have such a thing. The car is already significantly older and has run clearly more, but does not have the slightest superficial rust. However, the BMW has cost a lot of the Mazda, even the used 5 at that time has cost 5x more than the Mazda. Normal? Thanks and many greetings.

Hello, I finally managed to motivate myself to make my Jetta 2 Flott again, also because I finally have an engine for it, from a Vento accidenter. Conversion is all P&P. Everything is cleaned nicely and made chic again before the installation! But I just do EVERYTHING myself. I only think all the time about how I should treat the cavities and the underbody. Rust is almost no problem at all on the car for its 34 years, light edge rust only available that I I don’t want to have a fundamental discussion about what’s better now, I’d just like to know how you’re doing it, I don’t think there’s the “Holy Grail” there, which is the all-healing medicine now. I was thinking about fat (fluid film or Maik Sanders) for cavities and everything you can hardly get later. Underfloor I would have thought of wax from the spray cartridges and thus one thing. I protect everything. Of course, it would have to be repeated every few years, but that should be the least problem, vehicle would not be driven in winter anyway. I look forward to your experiences!

Good morning, I’m new here and I have almost no idea of cars at all. But I have a general idea of technology and am someone who likes to do most of it himself, even if the result is not so great afterwards. Is always a question of money… Now on the subject: I have a Skoda Roomster, year 2010 in Brilliant silver metallic. He already has some scratches and scratches, but mostly only on the plastic. Now I noticed, however, that on the tailgate rust is pictured et has. But luckily only from the outside. I want to grind this now, prime it, (fill it), paint it and polish it. And then “repair” the whole rest. I know, metallic is always bad to paint, but as I said, the result doesn’t have to be perfect. But I bought a paint pen from Skoda a few years ago with the right color code (8E) and it was way too dark. Ok, the car is old and the paint has changed, but I have now gel I’m sure that the problem is generally with this Skoda shade, even if the car is almost new. Does anyone know this shade and can tell me if there might be a brighter tone? Probably not… Are there other possibilities? Even mixing is not possible, for that I lack the equipment and hire a paintr is honestly too expensive for the car… I hope someone can help me here.

Good day. I hope, here is not – as in other forums usual – scolded about various insurances… I had a slight hail damage with my new car (small car in white). Lt. report about fictitious 1500e (so without VAT). Would now like to find me a dent master who makes me “hog-free” and confirms the car. Normally one drives with expert report to the dent master, which with the insurance sum removes the hail. I would then return the VAT from the insurance again but: I would like to have the hail damage corrected without any information on an expert report/insurance amount. Of course with invoice, so that I get the VAT back. Maybe I find a dellen master, who makes the hardly visible dents out for less and bribes, than the insurance amount. Question: I have not seen any small dents on the bonnet, roof and rear flap spoiler. If you see only with mirror. Bzw. the dents were extrapolated. K I drive to a dell master, and say “do me the car without hailing with confirmation”, or would like them always expert reports (so that they fully exploit the sum….). Reason: Currently you see the few small hailellas only by mirror. But if I come into a hail shower again, I have problems if I don’t have the current fix! Insurance would then take over further hail damage no more. However, the next hail could be stronger, so that you can get the Del Then I would have to argue with the insurance company about what was the last hail, and what about the new… thank you very much!

Moin people. I delivered my fat one week ago to the torturer. The car should be completely foiled with the 3M 2080 black metallic foil outside. The day before yesterday I picked up the car and assumed that I did not have to look at the car pingly, because I made after all 1900€ for it. Well I am then super happy with the car home, then get to work and when I give back to my car, then I arrested the disaster. My side mirrors were obviously completely amateur-like, so that the foil began to dissolve one day after collection. On the bonnet also foil dissolved. Therefore I looked at the car with the foiling again and had to find out that at various places apparently not clean was worked. At several places like the doors can be seen horizontal bubble formations which run over about 30-40 cm. At the edge before But I also have to say that I didn’t want the headlights to be removed. Is it still not better to do it on this edge? Then I saw that the trunk was not glued with one but two foils, is that so usual? I have an appointment with the torturer tomorrow, because I am absolutely not satisfied. What would you advise? Let it be repaired or let the foil be pulled off and my money back. Thanks in advance people.