Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, my golf rusts on the threshold, see photo. In the Golf V Forum I was advised to use rust converters, then zinc paint and a cavity preservation for the cavity. I would like to buy rust converter spray and nigrin zinc spray now at the hardware store Nigrin. Then at ATU cavity sealing (Presto cavity protection), there is no problem in the hardware store.

Hello, is there something like an automatic hammer (set) for the body construction? At the moment I have alienated myself from a compressed air mousse purpose, but if there is something better, I am quite ear! I want to make complete car parts with it, as see photo. Also, where can one buy for the body construction tools, which for example can not be found on the Internet? – Is there a real secret tip?

Hello dear people, I bought a used Golf 5 yesterday. The car came from the company where my girlfriend works. 2 weeks before that she was at wirkaufendeinauto.de for rating. The car was unwashed when it was rated, these scratches were not noticed by anyone. When I picked up the Golf yesterday I drove into the wash road (Mr. Wash Frankfurt). After the wash I noticed the scratches on the roof. I had it documented with them. I’m pretty sure there were no scratches before but I can’t know for sure. But the ones from WKDA.de would have noticed something like that? What do you think? Does anyone have tips on what I can do? For me, the scratches also look quite new..Does anyone have any idea if you can find out how long a scratch exists about? The scratches are rough and go up to the primer (presumably… primer = white?) As I read I am in the obligation of proof, do I have a possibility at all or is it rather hopeless? Anbei Bilder: Thank you and greetings Kai

Hi all, I have a decision problem when choosing a nice color for the powdering of my brake calipers on my BMW 7s. I don’t want a bright color, it should seem rather subtle. May be a bit more unusual than an accent – black-gloss would be possible, but is still so “boring”. But tend to a grey tone (Titan or similar), but the agony of the choice… DB702 was my first idea – is a grey with iron glitter in it (see the two example photos) Da nn I found a candy color “BRONCE RACE RUBY”, which looks really cool on the pictures, but when I google the color, it’s more bronze (as the name already says) and that’s too much again… The front are quite big and striking – here only one picture of my current brakes, there are already strongly corrected, they are new here. To choose from: Last two rather as contrast color, so depending on the selected main color. and a decision support, I posted it again at motor-talk (not that someone gets upset).

Warranty work C-pillar L+R base paint chipper R and paint scraper L-side both sides paint defects same height. Door rubber rub on the paint. Request to VW. Task of the workshop take pictures. VW with workshop master 2 hours conference circuit. And take pictures again and the sides were measured where the paint defects are present. Since I am still on vacation and can pick up the car only on Monday, I requested pictures. The result of the damage repair. Looks shitty. Au to you could not sell so. In the calm lies the power Can this be better? Thank you and greetings Jens

Hello! Have an important question. My new car is at the dealer’s, but this one knows some paint damage and even a paint inclusion (see appendix). Now the dealer (or Renault itself) offers as a solution “only” a repainting (guarantee) of the affected places. That would be 2 fenders, bonnet, tail flap – so soon the half car. But the seller said it was better not to do it, because then the paint density (when repainting) would change and that could be measured . Is that true? A friend thinks: NO, ass. Only when spatling changes that. If something is repainted this is not an issue. The vehicle is as said NEW (!) Similar to this:http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rn-or-repair-require-t4771627.html

Hello, while browsing the net I came across the rust protection or “rust stopping” coating “Rostegal” in other forums. The opinions (unfortunately very old) are largely positive. Only on what is this based? FluidFilm e.g. uses lanolin (should the crystal water displace in the corrosion products), Owatrol is based on linseed oil firnis, the old BOB, Voss G4, APP R-Stop and the thing of mipa use isocyanate. With the the thematized colors is only quotation: solvent-containing alkyd resin verkochu ng with specially crawlable additives and admixtures that displace residual oxygen from the rust layer I would be interested in what these specially crawlable additives are. Due to the long drying times (20h) I suspect the linseed oil(firmis), but I find no information in the safety data sheet ( ) and also the hint with the possible self-inflammation of soaked cloths/cloths/brushes etc. is missing.

Moin, yesterday a neighbor drove me to park out against my BMW F20. There was a scratch (see photos). We first exchanged the data, but we didn’t yet agree whether this should be done through his insurance. What do you think the costs will be to repair this damage? Is it detrimental that the scratch is directly on this kink? Can Smart Repair actually be done? And how does it work with the plastic part underneath? If you don’t w In fact, only the exchange remains. Would you advise me to insist on the insurance or can you arrange such a thing in private with a good conscience? Greetings

Meal, ahead: I don’t want to start a discussion about the skills of professional painters. It’s clear that the whole thing is not rocket science. However, need like almost everything in life practice. On the topic: On my project(Bastel)Vehicle (1. Gen Wrangler) some places are unfortunately to paint. No rust damage but mainly holes of dismantled attachments. Vehicle is Uni black (one layer). My goal is to paint these places myself. The result will be I don’t know how to get to the quality of a paint shop, but it’s all about the project itself. I know how to build a paintwork, etc., and can be painted well with cans. Now the question arises whether it would be more useful for a little larger areas and transitions to invest in a minigun (LPH 80 or the like) or if 2K cans bring an equally bad result (in the hands of a layman). In other words, if an LVLP gun brings significantly better results than Spraymaxx Dos price and cleaning/mixing costs have to be taken into account. Basically, I don’t see the project doomed to total failure, because the 1 layer varnish can be sanded and polished in an emergency. Greetings

Moin, I bought my Golf 4 3-door with an “accident damage” (see picture 1) behind the passenger door two years ago. In order to repair this damage I tried to get the dent out as far as possible. After that it was still about 2-3cm deep, that I then filled with spatula and then, the first time, the can painted. Unfortunately, the place then burst up and crumbled again, the second time, everything got out again and again with polyester spatula. l leased, let it dry for 3 days and then painted the whole side with spray varnish and gun (we sprayed the metal and the finished one with primer). This has now held for about half a year and now also starts to travel again (see picture 2). Can someone tell me what this is about and what I can do better? Greeting Niclas