Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Moin, it’s time to put on my 2006 Mazda 6 on the underbody!! To the TÜV in Dec. I had to have the axle carrier/body VA changed… Especially above the HA are rust approaches, how far that naturally pulls behind the heat shields can’t be known without looking, the rest looks quite good (inconspicuous)… Who knows who is a specialist, who does good work and does not necessarily weigh his work with gold…?!!! Preferred in the south n room D, from me also beyond the borders or further if it is worth it! Greetings Mopedcruiser

Hello all, our car unfortunately got two long and relatively strong scratches. I was already with some workshops and painters and they say repaint. But the car is 12 years old and I don’t want to invest 500-1000 EUR, before the risk of getting new scratches at any time. So my question in which order would you proceed to protect them against rust and visually conceal them? Again so that there are no discussions: I don’t expect any more scratches. önes Ergebnis, I just want to do something for myself for a few EUR and this technically useful. I have here: Lackstift Wagenfarbe Lackstift Clear varnish Silicone remover Spray 3000er Schleifpapier Diverse gloss polishes and anti-scratzer polishes Most of the time you read that you should start with sanding, but I find that illogical, then you close everything yes and take the chance to fill up the car paint in the bottom layer? Thank you

Hello together, I’m giving a new car this Friday for repair at my Mercedes dealer. A few body parts are reordered and also repainted. Now my question is: how can I get the paintr to work properly and carefully? Up to now 90% of the estimate is taken over by my comprehensive insurance, but I would like to pay more… My idea was to give 400 € tip to the dealer when the vehicle was handed over to me with the words After some research, there are several ways to paint, to stick off Another point is the interior. I’ve already experienced several times that there were scratches in the interior… How do I get out of this? Because a lot of piano varnish and leather … What would you do? Thank you in advance

Hello, my vehicle will be 30 next year, there comes the H license plate, and in my spare time I will make the car beautiful and fit for the hopefully next 30 years. Now I have a problem, which many people have: rust at the lower edge of the door! I am looking for a more durable solution. New doors can no longer be bought, used doors can no longer be found in the proper condition. Every 3 to 5 years after renovation of the rust comes through again. The history of the car is complete, now it would be the third time. I’m looking for something permanent. And I have an idea: My goal is: The lower fold is bent from the outside to the inside by 180°. And in this narrow area you just can’t get rid of the rust, you can only seal it. As a solution I want to widen the fold now, bend it up. Create a little space so that rust protection products can enter the affected area. With a narrow screwdriver I come nic My ideas would be a kind of knife, or other tool. For need of self-made. Or a flat-mice, or chisel for wood. Or a large screwdriver, sanded like a knife at the front. But the fold is very tight, completely flush. There you get really nothing pure to stir it up / to widen it. Also the working space is limited, 2 cm above it is already the looking out metal edge of the door, which goes to the rubbers of the door. I have eternally on the Internet and F oren searched for and unfortunately found nothing that brings me further. Do you have ideas how I could manage to widen this tight fold? Thank you in advance and love greetings!

Good day, at my Golf 7 GTI Facelift there is an approx. 3-4 cm long vertical dent at the rear right side of the fender. With a small paint damage, however, exactly on the edge. The causer was found and we agreed to handle the whole without insurance. I contacted 3 different workshops and received 3 different opinions. 1.) Contract workshop of VW Cost point approx. 1000€ Method: Paint the whole part from bottom to top and top 2.) Painter and also bubbling doctor Cost point approx. 600€ Method: paint up to half height and then polish the transition. However, he warned me “that he must fog towards the interior!?” 3.) Mobile dent service Cost point approx. 300€ Method: remove tires, disassemble inner lining from the wheel box, dent. Then paint pin and polishing. I wonder if painting for the “small dent” is not too much effort. Car has been accident-free so far – year 2017. My concerns are also that one perceives the color difference rather than the small paint damage!? However, I have to say that the paintr does very good work and was recommended to me by 3 persons. Without painting, I estimate that the paint damage on the fender always remains visible because the reflection on the edge is interrupted and remains. Furthermore, it could also be wrongly polished here by being polished directly on the edge. r the damage and what method can you recommend me? The costs play a subordinate role for me.

Hello dear community, I was in the car wash today. Unfortunately I did not take pictures before and did not check my car on suggestions. Directly after the car wash I noticed a damage – at the transition from windshield to car roof. Admittedly, I did not so the “car and paint expert”..! I suspect that there was dirt on the spot and the dirt (including paint) was “torn away” by the car wash. ensbild) plausible/possible? Independently of this: What will be done during a repair and what will it cost? Do you have “experiences” in case of such damage? Incidentally: The car is a Passat variant from 2017 – therefore I would like to have it repaired professionally! LG jansieben

Hiho, I got a kind of “stonefall” on a business trip. The thing is 7x3mm big and goes down through the primer (as far as I can say as layman). So the paint has burst off there. Now my question. If I look at google or posts here is always about 300€. I have here offers about 800€ net get ergo 1000€ gross. I find already violent. I think I should ask again a few painters for offers. Nevertheless, I would like to ask your I also have a comprehensive that could take over but at 300-400€ I would even cover the costs myself because I have the first time an insurance about me and is only 1 year around. LG

The old bonding still holds well. However, it has become particularly brittle at one corner. I removed the mutilated mass and would like to seal with disc sealant. I have some experience with silicone and acrylic. However, this is hardly helpful with the sealing compound of Würth with the short application advice. What tips do you have for me, which leads to success. So far it is only a “battale”. No networking agent is used. How do you get a smooth surface? that the whole mass comes along at the time of tapping off the supernatant? Does it make sense to stick off? Thank you for your interest in my problem.

I have an Opel Corsa D built in 2012. My father kindly wanted to treat me on the weekend. I bought extra underbody wax for it. Before I knew it, however, my father put used oil (old used motor oil) on the underbody with a compressed air paint spray gun in the front area of the car (wheelboxes, engine compartment). I then shocked him that this is forbidden nowadays and that waste oil is toxic. I now make myself responsible for several points. 1. Waste oil contains highly toxic substances such as heavy metals and toxic hydrocarbons. When spraying, a real steam cloud has formed, which has emanated from the cracks of the bonnet upwards. I am very worried that these toxic substances can now also penetrate the inside of the car via the blower / air conditioning system, since traces of waste oil may also have found the way to or into the air intake. 2. Waste oil contains certain substances (acid Ver 3. Waste oil attacks rubber or plastics. I am concerned that the respective parts will be eaten. Once I have noticed this (the front part of the car has already been treated), I have immediately subjected the vehicle to an underfloor washing machine in a nearby car wash, but this will not be able to undo the process. I am very happy to be able to do so. Do I have to worry that the blower will cause harmful heavy metals or other toxic compounds to enter the interior? Does a maintenance of the air conditioning system from the specialist workshop help here? Do I have to worry that the rubber/plastic parts in the engine compartment/wheelboxes will now be damaged?

Moin, I’m getting an MG ZS EV as a new vehicle these days. I know that the corrosion protection is not so optimal in some places. Despite the guarantee, I prefer to do something myself, so as soon as possible immediately after the transfer should be reworked – so the ideal way Mike Sanders fat in the cavities, plus normal U-protection where it is necessary at the open places. Now I have requested a plant in the area – which estimates 2 days and 1,000 € cost. old me for completely covered – it’s not that a gammely car with plague has to be rusted out and so on. Does anyone have any experience with the costs here? I would have to get the fat into the cavities myself, too. Lance, compressor etc. is available, I can also heat up the stuff. But is then just a single mess on the farm. Andy