Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hey guys, I’d like to make my car smarter for the first time in my life – a rear wing should turn on it. What do you have to pay attention to? Does it have to be a certain size? I only know that it can’t be made of aluminium and that it should have ABE or a part of it. Since there is no rear wing for my car model (2019 Jaguar XE P250 SE), I’ve been looking for universal wings. So far I haven’t found one with an ABE or a part of it. Do I first drill the holes in the trunk and drive to the TÜV? What if the spoiler is rejected? I have never had to register anything and I really don’t know what to do. I am very grateful for any help.

Hello guys, I think, with my S 202 (Mercedes C 180 T, year 2000) something should be done on the thresholdrs (I trivialize again biting ;-)) ). Ideally change completely. Of course with such an old car come first always the “shit-but-way-the-old-kiss-answers”. But I don’t want to do that. I want to drive the car for a few more years (have put in a lot lately) and would now also take a few euros in the hand to get the ground some more tüv-f My idea: is it possible to simply cut out the sleepers and the adjacent ground, and simply weld in from a well-preserved “donor”? If so, where do you get a well-preserved donor and who would be able to do such a thing in the southern upper Allgäu (around about 200 km)? So I am looking for someone who has a desire and time for this. Please only serious answers. OmG I have heard many times enough. I only post pictures when someone has “bitten”. ;-)) VG, Sven

I had welding work carried out on a screwdriver and I am not so much in the material. A wheel run should be partly replaced with a Mercedes S210. At the back corner a part of the new wheel run was simply put on the sheet and welded with points.Before that the sheet was cut out as far as the only healthy sheet was available then about 1cm blankly ground and the new sheet was placed on it and welded with points. A slight bump was caused by the old sheet metal. See picture. I know it so that at least the new sheet metal is either bent off and pushed underneath or the new sheet metal is put on push. The screwdriver said that would be so fine the paintr would pull over there spatula and then that would be ok. What do you think? Thanks for the answers! Unfortunately, I tried to attach pictures in vain, can’t be uploaded, doesn’t know why…

Moin people. I delivered my fat one week ago to the torturer. The car should be completely foiled with the 3M 2080 black metallic foil outside. The day before yesterday I picked up the car and assumed that I did not have to look at the car pingly, because I made after all 1900€ for it. Well I am then super happy with the car home, then get to work and when I give back to my car, then I arrested the disaster. My side mirrors were obviously completely amateur-like, so that the foil began to dissolve one day after collection. On the bonnet also foil dissolved. Therefore I looked at the car with the foiling again and had to find out that at various places apparently not clean was worked. At several places like the doors can be seen horizontal bubble formations which run over about 30-40 cm. At the edge before But I also have to say that I didn’t want the headlights to be removed. Is it still not better to do it on this edge? Then I saw that the trunk was not glued with one but two foils, is that so usual? I have an appointment with the torturer tomorrow, because I am absolutely not satisfied. What would you advise? Let it be repaired or let the foil be pulled off and my money back. Thanks in advance people.

Hello, my golf rusts on the threshold, see photo. In the Golf V Forum I was advised to use rust converters, then zinc paint and a cavity preservation for the cavity. I would like to buy rust converter spray and nigrin zinc spray now at the hardware store Nigrin. Then at ATU cavity sealing (Presto cavity protection), there is no problem in the hardware store.

Hello people My wife had a driving accident and is a gap of the bonnet open on both sides. Is there a simple solution for that. Could I fix this alone without visiting a workshop. And if the car has to go to the workshop the repair is very expensive. Had someone ever such an accident thank you

Hello! With my metallic painting a small stone stroke was repaired with a paint pencil by a paintr. This meant it could not be better. The result is ok for me too. However, it seems to me as if the clear varnish is missing and the layer stands out. Therefore I would like to put on my own hand. I would first assume to have to sand down the paint hill and then clear varnish on it. Then polish. Right? Bzw. what means do I take there? Thanks!

Hello dear community, I have the following problem. I had noticed in the spring of last year that I have a 1-2cm large rust spot on my VW Polo back left. As a result I went to the “workshop of my trust” and had it sanded off and covered by a pen (color white) which cost about 200 euros. Now I had to find out unfortunately that the rust comes back. Now my questions: Is it normal that the rust comes back when it closes off or is it my fault that I didn’t have it painted over, but only had it worked through by a cover pen? Has the workshop possibly not fixed the damage correctly? I can’t have this rust stain repaired now every year? If so, does the workshop have to stick to it/repair it? Have asked on the phone and they would look at it again and make me a “good price”. h, because my gut tells me that there has not been properly worked there. Can someone enlighten me? Unfortunately, I am absolutely layman in this area. Thank you!

Hello dear people, I bought a used Golf 5 yesterday. The car came from the company where my girlfriend works. 2 weeks before that she was at wirkaufendeinauto.de for rating. The car was unwashed when it was rated, these scratches were not noticed by anyone. When I picked up the Golf yesterday I drove into the wash road (Mr. Wash Frankfurt). After the wash I noticed the scratches on the roof. I had it documented with them. I’m pretty sure there were no scratches before but I can’t know for sure. But the ones from WKDA.de would have noticed something like that? What do you think? Does anyone have tips on what I can do? For me, the scratches also look quite new..Does anyone have any idea if you can find out how long a scratch exists about? The scratches are rough and go up to the primer (presumably… primer = white?) As I read I am in the obligation of proof, do I have a possibility at all or is it rather hopeless? Anbei Bilder: Thank you and greetings Kai

Hi all, I have a decision problem when choosing a nice color for the powdering of my brake calipers on my BMW 7s. I don’t want a bright color, it should seem rather subtle. May be a bit more unusual than an accent – black-gloss would be possible, but is still so “boring”. But tend to a grey tone (Titan or similar), but the agony of the choice… DB702 was my first idea – is a grey with iron glitter in it (see the two example photos) Da nn I found a candy color “BRONCE RACE RUBY”, which looks really cool on the pictures, but when I google the color, it’s more bronze (as the name already says) and that’s too much again… The front are quite big and striking – here only one picture of my current brakes, there are already strongly corrected, they are new here. To choose from: Last two rather as contrast color, so depending on the selected main color. and a decision support, I posted it again at motor-talk (not that someone gets upset).