Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, after a damage to the rear bumper, it was replaced and repainted. Since it is a leasing vehicle, properly about the dealer. Today I have looked at this and found out that there is a clear color difference. Now my question to you, is this still in the frame or does it have to be improved?

Hello, I would like to treat some rust spots at my Volvo and seal and protect accordingly afterwards. Furthermore, seal and protect the Holme. The holders of the rear bumper, as shown in the picture, are of course renewed. Do you have tips for me? What means can you recommend? I would like to prevent rust in general. Thanks and greeting Nilsco

Hi! I looked at 2 Arteon used cars at the VW dealer. Both leasing returners. Both should be accident-free according to VW house. I had a paint knife with me. One had paint so about 140-180 on it, the other was on the outside surfaces more like 220 and on the roof surfaces so 240. Dealer thinks that all is ok and accident-free. Can this be normal that there are so tolerances from factory?

I had brought my 15-year-old car to a master paint shop, as the tail plate should be painted completely, an A-pillar and roof edge. My order was discussed in detail. Details like, emblems were left out noted, bar should be painted with license plates, rear window does not have to be taken out, etc.. I also said, I would like the 1A to stand there again, since it has now fresh Tüv and otherwise is in a really good condition. Only on day 5 I was able to pick up the car first. Whole car, including the painted spots dirty, thus a review not to 100% possible. A-pillar 3 dirt inclusions, 2 cracks and looks like pinned and a slicing for marking, which was obviously set wrong. fenders scratched at the back two large scratches. On the tailgate is again an emblem, should not be, lattice over registration plates was not painted. Rear window was removed however, so that the Le hrling that once did it, I guess. Slice glued in absolutely bad, you can see from the outside already, inside the glue swells out. Luggage compartment dirty, also the side walls inside. Black adhesive remnants on bumper and badger spoiler. Dachspoiler stacks from the glass pane, probably when lifting clean. Roof edge was also not painted. The rear flap itself was well painted at first glance, except at the edge at the bottom left you can see that there is significantly less material on it. t. 11 km the car was moved, although it is from the parking lot in the hall 5 meters. The best thing was then that this should go without a bill in hindsight. It looks like the shop thought, there is a 15 year old car, so our new apprentice can try it out. Doesn’t matter with such an old car. Then talked to the employee in a friendly tone, I think that was the brother, boss was on vacation, who tried to make this all nice. He said, the A-S Out of the blue he would polish (there’s not even enough material on it), he would make the scratch out, he didn’t even deny it yet, but otherwise everything stays like that. I told him I’d call back on Monday. I didn’t pay him anything. I honestly didn’t plan on it either. I’m pissed. I don’t want to know how they drove my car. What would you do?

Hello, I have seen on the passenger side that there the welds from the longitudinal beam to “radhouse inner shell” (kA as it is called) are all slightly rusty. The car has a “rust guarantee”, but do not really want me to complain about the stress by 20 instances until the application is approved. Especially since I think that the there even with the brush only make blank and spray black paint over it. What could be done here effectively to stop the rust permanently? Al I first chased into every opening cavity spray.

Hello, my first post in this forum. Therefore, a small introduction in advance: About 20 years ago I restored a VW beetle together with my father (KFZ master). Completely disassembled, repaired the body, installed a Dannert-Speedster kit, finished the painting work and built everything together again. In addition to the VW Beetle, I bought a Opel Monza some time ago. Both cars are now subject to extensive restorations, with as much as m My first problem: at the driver’s door a spaced place has been solved. When the car was built up (approx. in 2000) we filled the horizontal bead below the windows with (fiber) spatula. At the thickest point we applied about 10 mm. Directly on the upper hinge the mass of the spatula has now dissolved from the metal on an area of about 5 x 10 cm. In this area I removed the spatula mass from the metal. How do I build the material now best that it is a) stable and b) not rusty? I thought of a splinter set, as with this larger thickness are possible than with spatula. Many greetings, Björn

In a wild accident 2 bumps came into my bonnet. According to the expert, a NEW one should be installed. Whether , is for me the question mark. The workshop also after the 2nd attempt did not get a straight seat. Split mass and heights just don’t match. It sits e.g. before left higher and back right lower How big can the differences be. Vehicle was org. until then and accident-free

Hello welding professionals, the following task is short for me: At a car. new sheet metal parts are to be welded. Partially bluntly welded, but also overlappingly welded points. I want to do both by means of TIG; MMA is also available. Since in particular overlapping spot-welded sheets in the overlap area can hardly be provided with corrosive protection, I wanted to treat these overlap areas beforehand with so-called welding primers. Does this work as I thought, or how do you solve the problem better? However, I don’t have a MIG/MAG welding machine. In the case of TIG welding, the sheet metal parts to be welded must be meticulously clean. How does welding primers or any other corrosion protection work? Is there something suitable? Look forward to numerous contributions to your experience on this topic. Best regards – Reinhard

Evening, I recently made the following unpleasant observation under the car on the outside (see pictures). Car is an A3 8P. Is exactly the place where I always put the jack on. I suppose that’s the underbody protection that dissolves there? And that under there rust? What kind of strut is that part of the frame at all? Does that have to be removed in the workshop first or could an absolute layman get there? Thanks for tips in advance.

Hello! A vehicle has fallen by the HU due to damage in the wheelhouse at the rear right. At the place is usually a metal sheet attached to the body, on which the pipe from the tank filler nozzle to the tank is additionally attached. When I had changed the shock absorbers 1.5 years ago, around the place was much wet dirt. Unfortunately there is no plastic covering there. I removed the dirt then, so that by the accumulated moisture and the It was too late and the rust was already there. Actually I wanted to take care of the place, but then completely forgot it. Now I was at the HU and was very surprised when the examiner suddenly stabbed around with a screwdriver in the back of the wheelhouse. The examiner dropped the vehicle (aside from a slightly adjusted headlight) because of it. I can only understand this very conditionally. The metal part in itself ha from my point of view, no relevance to the statics of the self-supporting body. The tank tube is sufficiently fastened above and below, so that there is no problem here either. Only the hole – thanks to the examiner – now created could be relevant. If I had thought of the place before, I would have done something in front of the HU that you do not see it. Probably not every examiner would have looked there either. That is at least my experience. Now he has unfortunately seen it. So it is repaired. Then: Weld metal sheet over it? Welding points or along the complete edges? Are there special requirements? Must there be welding points on all 4 sides or would it be enough on 2 sides? Full surface glued with body glue is not allowed, is it? It also has to be in some way tight so that no water comes into the small hole. The tank tube nearby can stay on to weld, right? Inn I’m thinking about whether I should give it to a body builder (what could cost such a thing?) or whether I try it myself. I don’t have much experience with bodywork. I’ve never welded anything like this before. I’d then go to a rental workshop where there should be a corresponding welding machine. With photos. Thank you very much for your advice.