Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello. I’m not sure if I’m right in the section of the forum, if not postpone it. I want to refurbish my Audi 80 B4 Avant. Now it’s about the underbody. At one point there’s good rust. So far I’ve done: extensively scraped everything with screwdriver, brush and fertan pinned on it (for first protection) currently it looks like on the picture. But I’m not really satisfied with it. How do I best do that? Please leads etc ignorant On tools I have: Handbrushes Brush for cordless screwdrivers Scharber For flex disks (unfortunately because of sparks in the tank) Sandblast gun Admittedly, I have never rusted a bottom. My procedure would have been now: Remove rust as far as possible, Fertan on it, underbody protection. By the way, when “pulling” with the screwdriver I didn’t get through anywhere Or are there other / better ways? Thank you already

Hello dear forum community, I am new here and find your forum really great 🙂 I have the following problem, I have acquired a GOLF 7 BJ 2016 (In reflexsilber metallic) as a former VW factory member vehicle. After I picked up the car, I noticed repainted places on the fixing screws of the bonnet. I then drove to the DEKRA and the examiner found that the car was completely painted on the right, the roof and the bonnet. The roof and the right side partly up to 250 micrometers and the bonnet up to 350 micrometers. When I confronted the VW dealer with this, he assured me that nothing was noted in the vehicle history about repainted pre-damages. He explained to me that the cars are already repainted in the factory, but this is not documented and the bonnet may only have been re-adjusted. My questions to you: -Has VW possibly another “act” about the history wä during production (according to the VW hotline there is no such thing)? If yes, do I have to hire a lawyer to view this file? -Does a VW really leave the factory in such a condition (fixing screws see pictures)? My problem is that if I want to sell the car, don’t want to hide it and I would like to have written confirmation from VW that the car was repainted at the factory. Otherwise it will certainly become more difficult to sell the car later….

Hello, as a deruster or rust converter I got a finished mixture with 85% phoshoric acid. Unfortunately the manufacturer cannot give me any information about the application. It is about a) rusty steel brake discs made of unalloyed or low alloyed St 07 b) rusty grey cast parts from GG20 or GG25 The phoshoric acid solution is quite thin and the parts have sometimes poorly accessible places. Therefore the brushing method is not possible. Is it possible that you have some experience of how long you can leave such parts in the bathroom? Greetings of the car parker

Hello guys, I’m going to hit another topic, I’m especially curious today… So I’d like to know how to get rid of the paint transitions (spray mist) after a spot repair (small repainting spot) so that you don’t recognize the repaired spot immediately. I’m very familiar with body repair work, but I don’t have any experience in making the “invisible” repaired spots. I have some scratches and small dents on my car. I don’t want to repaint whole areas of the body because of a small scratch. I just want to know how to get a transition, I know that it’s kind of sanded again and then polished, but which grit can be used, which polishes you need? Have some very expensive professional grinding pole here. ituren (3M etc.) stand, but have no ahnug what I can use for what. Oh yes, professional polishing machine and various polishing attachments (for drilling machine or similar) which are also higher speeds are available. Would I be pleased about an explanation! Greeting gap

Will the TT probably also drive in winter. Are underbody protection and varnish sealing important or recommendable if you want to drive the car longer ? Or is it at least well enough protected below ? Which varnish sealing do you recommend ? First of all thanks.

Hello dear community, I’m really a little desperate right now. I love my car and I love driving with it just that is no longer the case at the moment, as a scratch caused by vandalism destroys the complete look of my vehicle. I drive an “Opel Corsa D” in the color black, my car is 4 years old. A new bonnet is just too expensive for me and in general I don’t want to invest all too much money anymore, as I plan to buy a new car next year. I still want to be able to get into my car without constantly having to see this scratch before. On the Internet I have already researched a lot how to fix scratches myself. However, don’t trust me as I have never done anything like this before. (generally zero idea about cars) Above all I still have some questions – I don’t have any equipment, what do I need everything and where can I get it? (Please as cheap as possible 🙂 // ATU?) – Procedure? – How long and w – Can I do it outside a garage? (don’t own one) – Is it possible at the depth and location of the scratch at all? (I may have read the workshop not offering any performance in the case of scratches on bonnet and deck.. why ever) Would you be really grateful for your help! Greetings Terri P.S.: Pictures of the scratch are attached. (All the other small scratches are dirt and fine scratches that don’t appear at all. len. Looks so crazed only in the pictures.)

My 92er 190E has slight corrosion at the edges of welded parts of the underbody. Is it recommended to spray the underbody with oil. If someone has good years of experience with it, let him report about it and call an oil recommendation. As far as I know, one has always sprayed with oil. Until then with a lot of advertising the inhospitable Teroson and similar means were pressed into the market. They have then caused then in case of damage (stone stroke etc) large rust plagges. m fg ortler

Hello together. I’ve been a silent reader for a very long time. Now it hit me myself. This month I should go to TÜV. I have already renewed brake discs and pads and back the dust protection of the shock absorbers. I determined that in the entrance area are front 2 rust spots. I with the fan disc a bit eliminated the bubbles and came to the appearance a huge hole. I put in photos to take a picture of it. I got the car exactly 2 years ago. Next week it would be paid off 🙁 At that time there was nothing to see of paint damage. My question to you: is it worth it to have this repair carried out? Estimate for the body builder amounts to over 1000 euros. Or would it be more useful to sell the car as a hobby vehicle? Golf 5 Built 2007 1k1 80 hp mileage approx. 190 000 km. Are there ready-formed parts for the threshold head? Since I am an early retireer and therefore not so flexible I’d be happy to get a realistic statement from you, thank you very much in advance.

Hello, I have rust on my transit on the roof. I would have had this damage done to a body builder, but because of the repair guarantee only the complete segment would have replaced and possibly also further. Costs md. 2000€. So I prefer to do this myself, in the knowledge that it will not be perfect. The previous owner probably puffed and the rear segment riveted and sealed, under it rusted. I have now largely cleared the sealing mass and already from Hand brushed off the very coarse rust, the finish still follows. (I’m not finished yet!) The fold in the middle cannot be opened. I removed the rivets, but there are always welding points. As I learned in my previous topic, Owatrol would offer itself here, because I can’t get the fold. My procedure would be: – Remove all rust and sealing compound as far as possible, but do not grind the sheet completely blank so that Owatrol can work – apply Owatrol several times everywhere, within 1 week – 3in1 Brantho Korrux one layer – 1 week drying time – apply Korroflex generously on all support surfaces – riveted with stainless steel aluminium rivets – 1 week drying time – follow Korroflex on the roof, original sealing membranes – apply Korroflex from below Oooder is recommended to use a rust converter, if so how to proceed?

Hello, is it possible to apply an additional layer of clear varnish on a good clean and scratch-free varnish, e.g. 50 micrometers? Does the clear varnish have to be sanded or is it sprayed on like this? If I had it done on the bonnet for example, then I might have a better protection against impacting stone strokes. But also like this, would there be more reserve for polishing. Has someone ever had something like this done before? Greeting