Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, is there anyone here who is very experienced with Brunox Epoxy Rostumwandler? I would like to ask a few questions: I am just renewing my threshold, it is fortunately only surface rust, i.e. a lot of grinding work and spatula, since it is a few mm deeper on some people. I have already sanded all the places as well as possible down to the metal, and pinned all this with Brunox Epoxy. Now my question: How long do I have to let it work? Can I now spatula about it? Without m I’m worried about the rust coming back? To the spatula: Must the spatula be overpainted quickly or is the watertight? Because we use the car and I can’t immediately paint it and seal it! How do I do it right?

Hi dear forum community, I bought an older Santa Fe for my son. Technically, he is still top, but he has a few scratches here and there, which I might get out with a paint pin and grinding polish. However, he has a real 10 cm x 2 cm dent on the rear wheel on which the rust already blooms. Now I wanted to grind the spot down to the sheet metal and then rebuild it with it. However, there is a very large selection of different manufacturers. Which one would you recommend. I would start with a silicone remover, then follows primer / filler, then follows fiberglass filler, then follows primer / filler again and finally varnish and clear varnish, or maybe there is a varnish, by which everything is united. So, which manufacturer is really good for my project and maybe you can help me with the scratch removal because there are also several manufacturers there. VG helti

Hello together. So I’ve already googled and read a lot… Just in advance, I don’t want to “is it nice or not” or “I’d rather paint it” or or or start discussion…. So I have a question about the role, I’ve rolled 2 cars in person, I wasn’t satisfied with the result, not because I didn’t like the color or something, but because I’ve seen every single track of my role… I used Standox 2K color and a foam material olle… The color was undiluted… I read time and again you should take a foam roll, but that was nothing… I see other pictures in the net of rolled cars where you can’t see anything from the rolling tracks… What’s my mistake? Should I dilute the color? Did I use the wrong color? I want to roll a vehicle again next week, but this time with a better result, someone has a link with certain rolls/rolls that he used? Or was it a the color was too “thick liquid” ??? Thank you very much…

This is not vehicle-bound. How best to proceed here… I would proceed like this. Manually rust out with the wire brush. Then ovatrol oil. Then fluid film… then selbett or Mike Sanders…. How good is that?

Hey, I uploaded a picture of the damage. It’s a Ford Fiesta in Magenta Red. The scratch at the edge goes up to Bleck, the others don’t. Paint pen, paint spray or workshop? And how much would cost in a workshop? Thank you in advance and Best regards Dripajima

Servus! I have a relatively new seat, there was damage to the passenger when driving in an underground car park, which had two curb edges, which I did not recognize so, a door was easily broken, because the passenger wanted to clear out and did not recognize this edge. I uploaded the pictures. The inner door was not damaged or the inner body. Maybe we have a few car drivers who can estimate the damage. I have a damage in the car. Year free at full and partial cascade and consider using this then, the amount should be well over 300€. Greetings,

Servus, I made a vintage car clear today. Year 1984. This one currently has a vinyl roof. Unfortunately with some rust pimples under the vinyl. According to previous owners, these have become no more or bigger in the last years. Nevertheless, I would like to go there. Roof down. Work up, remove rust etc. and then just repaint. Black shiny so that it fits the rest of the vehicle. I would try to do the preparatory work myself. So vinyl down, derust so that it only needs to be painted afterwards. Does anyone have experience what it costs? I get the vehicle on Thursday. Then I like to post a few pictures.

Hello, today I looked at a top-maintained touran at the free dealer. At first glance clean car, top rims, timing belts and interior almost like a new car. But the sills, fenders and doors were almost completely rusted through, according to the dealer only a little paint with brush would help. Ask you paintrs and screwdrivers: The car BJ 2014, 100,000 km ran, why rusting like on the spear, shock absorbers completely rusted, that is mega bad. I don’t know about my previous brands, BMW Renault at all. The car isn’t even old and barely ran anything for a diesel. What’s going on? Where does this massive rust come from. I wanted to look at the car, push on the threshold and that goes through… loud dealer with brush to get rid of…

Hello, I’m looking for a glue that can be used to glue plastic in the outside area. It’s about the wheel running linings of the Opel Corsa in the signature. There the front two shots are torn off on the driver’s side. A “plastic residue” (which is screwed from the wheelhouse) is still left, i.e. it would be glued to plastic. I want to make this provisional before winter, so that it is not completely torn off by the washing system. If it can keep great It is therefore necessary to have a suitable adhesive, which is… a, as tough as possible and does not drip and runs like silicone, so that the body plate is not dirty. b, still holds in small quantities (two points with a diameter of about 1 cm) c, withstands the ambient conditions in the outside area => What is suitable?

Hello dear community, in the context of a stupid carelessness I have to have my car repaired, see here:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…heiligung-bei-kasko-plus-t7427680.html On 16.03. the damage is evaluated by the friendly. However, since I have read and heard several different opinions about this, here is a purely technical question: The one says sheet metal exchange is better and more useful, since a sheet metal is so much better when first forming (accident) and when second forming (repair) The second says that it is better to bulge and, if necessary, spat, etc., because by changing the sheet metal the basic substance and structure of the car is affected and this could have a negative effect on the overall driving stability. Furthermore, all tinning or welding points INNNEN would never be sealed in such a way. I could now of course have the damage examined by several different companies and listen to their advice. But first of all, they can logically pay for what I see and secondly, I also lack a little time to do so. First of all, I’m concerned with the technical understanding of when to exchange sheet metal and when to repair it and why to decide. What do you say here the S-S-S-S-S-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C-C- pezialisten among you? Thank you in advance for your feedback! LG