Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello guys, the question is already in the subject, I want to make the TÜV compliant. Whether this holds permanently is not now the question, the FZG already has rust, and the fight is always lost. The job is already processed quickly with a CDC disc, but I can make it even more carefully. I would fit a metal piece into the hole now and then close everything with fiberglass paste, because I have no welding device and no accessories (have even welded once, but this is Is the TÜV compliant? If no, why not, that holds with fiberglass paste bomb-proof. I would of course grind it off, prime it, and then spray it with matching carroserie paint. Yes, you will see clearly that it is patched there, therefore my question, whether the TÜV is compliant. Thank you for your tips, yes, I am beginner-hobby-screw, but very eagerly, especially around the topic of bodywork, meaning and purpose of reprocessing steps, not Prof. Immediately, but TÜV just 80% solutions for the hobby area.

Hello dear colleagues, I have the following problem and I hope for your expert help: My father would be interested in a red B-Class. The vehicle has a good equipment and would fit us so far. However, there is a pre-damage on the two doors on the right. These were probably repainted and probably also chipped due to the measured paint layer thickness. The dealer (Mercedes-Autohaus) measured now times and measured paint layer thicknesses from 93 to 2600 micrometers. Unfortunately, it was not possible for us to find out where or who made this repair (i.e. Mercedes workshop or free workshop). Because of the data protection problem you get no information. My question would now be whether problems on the doors can be expected here due to the large differences in the coating thickness, or rather less. I attach a picture here, so that you can also judge this. Color differences I can – at least on the basis of the pictures – as lay so nic ht erkenn. Rejoice me on hopefully helpful answers! VG Oliver

Hello together, the fenders of my car look so rusty unfortunately. I should of course avoid a rusting. How fast should I treat the rust spot here and what is the most favorable procedure ? Not that I start next spring and then had to replace the parts immediately . Can I do it myself or rather have it done in a workshop ? If the latter then how high is the cost point ? Many greetings from Hanover !

Happy Easter People don’t have a question about the tehma on impact welding Wanted to weld in a reperature sheet on the fender soon, it doesn’t edge off at the spot and has to hit welding the problem is when I’m fucking construction you see it afterwards As on the example picture watch. Einhell bt gw 150 Argon18 Protective gas 40ampere level 2 sheet thick 1mm. Stoss Why I partly burn the sheet and drip down Because, for example, if I can set a welding point in the middle of the sheet I can with the 1 level 25ampere is, it’s too little already tried possibilities…. Drat forschub a little too fast Or I do something wrong (doing) (too fast welded e.g. too high heat heat development?) Tips or tricks for getting hit would be great if you know which

I hope my topic fits in here, if not @MOD please postpone. I had the M-package retrofitted on my titanium-silver E90. The plant painted a lot for BMW and has 30 years of experience in the area. Before I asked if there could be differences in silver, this was answered in the affirmative, but only in rare cases would a lay really recognize. Co-painting would be a possibility, but then I would have to leave the car standing (the paintr is 200km white). t is away), but it wouldn’t be necessary. So I didn’t let paint and didn’t insist on it. The parts were professionally added, each handle sat, only original parts were used, nothing had to be “adapted” and all dimensions fit exactly (that’s why I chose this operation). The paint result, however, is now highly angled. If I look directly at the parts, I see a minimal touch into the bluish, but only very low. I see the angle of view, I see no difference at all. From 20m you can see almost nothing at all anymore, with winter-polluted vehicle no difference is visible either. I can not yet check the prudence of the sun. The question to the paintrs is whether I should complain about it, with the danger that it will be “improved”. As I said, it only bothers me when looking at it directly, not bad, but I know it and therefore see it.

Good afternoon, I drive a 4 golf convertible. The paint from my car is no longer the best. The car has a few rust spots, the clear varnish has burst off in some places and the previous owner has foolishly tried to paint with another paint (per spray can). I would like to repaint the car. I know that self-made can never look as good as a trained paintmaker but I would like to practice it on the car. In this thread I just want to get your experience. Preparation: First of all, I would start grinding off the entire car. First of all, quite coarsely. Weld the rust holes afterwards. So that the basic shape is restored. Then, finely sand off the complete car. What graininess is best for painting? Could a 1200 sanding paper be sufficient? If the body is then ready for painting, that is: holes welded, shape restored and dents pulled I would then Finish with silicone remover. Paint: The car should then turn blue. I prefer metallic. Is metallic difficult to paint? I would do so. I would apply the first 2-3 layers primer. Then the paint would come and finish the clear varnish. To my equipment: I have an eccentric sander and as a spray gun I have a Wagner paint spray system. That should be your own. h yes enough for painting. Now to my questions: How fine should you grind the sheet metal? Which primer would you recommend to me? How difficult is it to paint metallic? What else to consider? Any tips?

In order to make it clear in advance, I do not want to question in any way the professional competence or the work performance of the skilled workers, that is important to me! I myself had the last car painted 30 years ago, therefore no idea of the current market prices. As an interested reader I have learned here that in a whole painting is spoken of realistic 8-10000 euros. I had to swallow quite a lot. Even if I still have some material r I don’t know how the work has changed over the years, but I can’t believe it. Or are the market prices mentioned so exaggeratedly written? Thoughtful, Robi

Hello together, I will soon replace the chrome with hydrochloric acid on my autologos and on the grill frame and then I want to paint. Either the copper layer remains under it or it will be completely plastic. I have a question to paint. How do I proceed? Do I have to prime and filler? Do I need 2k primer/filler or is 1K enough? Don’t know me too much about the various preliminary work. Should shine become black. Do I have to pay attention to anything else. kle primer? Or do I need detention agents or primers? In between then grinding is clear 🙂 Thank you in advance.

Hello to the round Maybe this would also be a question for carross series care, but I’ll start here. I recently bought an E46 convertible, which I now want to give a cavity seal. The condition is exceptionally good, and an unbasked 6 cylinder is not so easy to find. Does anyone have an idea where to turn in the greater Hamburg area? Experienced…Prices… Thank you…

Hello, I still have an A4 B6 from 2004 in the color brilliant-black, color code LY9B. Soon the fenders are to come to kulanz because of rust and be painted. The tailgate also comes as a used part new, but should also be painted. I would say that the car has an age-appropriate varnish. However, compared to a half so old A3 Sportback, which also has just under the same km-performance, about 200Tkm, and has exactly the same color code, the A4 shines clearly less. Just as I picked it up, the paint will be adapted to the “weather conditions” when it is painted. But if I wanted to polish the car later on, I would be afraid that there is a possibility that the old sheet metal parts will then radiate / shine significantly more after polishing than the newly painted ones, because they were trimmed to “old”. Otherwise, one could also let paint “new” in the mixture in the hope that the old ones will be painted In addition, my idea now would be to polish the car, then paint it, and later again polish the newly painted parts to obtain the same finish. Who can now tell me whether my fears are right or what I should do best? Thanks already in advance.