Moin! This morning car and posts were a bit fond of each other and came out this (see photo). The spot is at the bottom, at the right side of the threshold (plastic) just before the rear wheel. How to deal with such damage best? Can a paint doctor repair it again, or does something have to be changed completely? If relevant, an Audi A5 from 2008 is. Would you be very grateful for experience and perhaps an assessment of the costs.
Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum
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Recommendation Lackdoctor/SmartRepair Stuttgart
Servus put together, the SuFu didn’t bring the desired success, therefore the new Fred. I did some kind of W****** scratch on the passenger door. Picture in the appendix. Now I’ve already scraped off a few painters. They all say “Repaint door for approx. 400,- plus fairytale control”. One of them suggested the paint pen (is still working?). Except for CarTop Stuttgart no smart repair offered. They do this for approx. 200,- without seeing a difference at the end with a guarantee of 2 years. Wanted to look again at ETF Carpoint in Sindelfingen and at Paint Fix Pro in Stuttgart today. Can you give the Scratch-Repar methods of the paint doc ́s believe that you really can’t see that? Was someone once at o.g. Lack pros? Have no desire to let me disasse half the car by the painter. Car: A6 4F FL in phantom black pearl effect Thanks in advance… mfg
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18 years old car as rust remove ?
Hello, my wife wants to buy a small car up to 1000€. Today we looked at a VW Polo 6N. VW Polo 6N BJ 1996 1.4L 60 HP 115.000km TÜV bis 06/15 + summer tires and winter tires should cost 600€. According to the old in a good condition. But on the rear wheel run the paint is already peeled off properly. How and how do I remove the rust and how do I treat the job afterwards? Would not like to discuss about the car, price, mispurchase, too old or so……
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(Plasti)DIP – the new type of vehicle painting?
Yesterday in the VOX car magazine “auto mobil” the new (?) vehicle painting (Plasti)DIP that comes like so many from the USA to us. It is a kind of spray plastic with the car a new, because favorable appearance (can get) The funny is that the film can be removed without residue. The costs are moderate with between 700 and 1400 ears. Even after a slight accident with scratches the paint was not damaged and the SmartRepair was also possible. The sprayPlastiLack is suitable for washing lanes to that also still. Perhaps the topic is already known here? For me it was and is new. Although I can set the LINK to the broadcast at VOX here. Only the film refuses to start because – allegedly – the ad-blocker is switched on.
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Grate points on the underbody
Hello! There are several rusty spots in the underbody of my vehicle (see photos for examples). What is the best way to do this? And what do you do in these places where this putty (or glue?) is cracked or goes off? At home in my closet, I have body glue, fertan, underbody spray, fluid film and perma film. Is something useful or would you recommend something else? Would you like to have as little work as possible, but rest longer. Thank you for your answers!
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Something for the amusement of the VW painter
Hello nursing fetishists (to whom I am now also counting)! Yesterday after my accident damage, which is described here, I reached the copy of the billing including an overview for the treatment of new painted surfaces and lacquer preservation in general. I couldn’t keep myself laughing anymore and can’t withhold this from you After reading these tips, the condition after repainting our polo doesn’t surprise me anymore. Have fun reading!
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Cabrio dipping, how much Dipp???
Moin together… I am here in this forum absolute rookie…. My daughter will soon be 18 and wanted a Punto convertible 176er….Now she came up with the idea you could repaint him….from blue to pink……girls stop… Since I have read so much about dips it seems cheaper and also easier for me… Well my question…has someone ever dipped a convertible, or how much color would you need 2, 3, or 4 liters????
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Paint the car yourself
Hello, I would like to give my Astra the last painting and free him of rust one last time. I have rolled him once with synthetic resin varnish, however, this looked so modestly from that I have painted him after a few months hobbyally. So everything sanded, spat, degreased, primed and again matt black synthetic resin jingle over. Well, since the rust on the fenders has increased very strongly soon I want to exchange all parts and again, the last time, paint. However, since the black matt goes on the crack after 3 years and every second one so drives around it will be a different color. First I want an extreme neon green or just white. The question is now Matt or shine? Do I get gloss varnish as a not varnisher just like matt varnishes or will it just look like garbage? Art resin or acrylic? If I paint with acrylic varnish it doesn’t have to look like anything else, so the whole old synthetic resin paint, or? And how does it look like clear varnishes on matte varnishes? I am not a painter, so I don’t have to look like a car, but it doesn’t have to look like a job.
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Which device are recommended
Hello together, I would like to repair my little scratches on bumpers and fenders myself such a kind of smart repair ! I want to get an airbrush compressor and an airbrush gun. Who can recommend me something good. It should not be something cheap, but it also does not have to be high end devices. Thanks
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Paint breathing ???
Hello, I spoke some time ago with a conditioner who explained to me that he prepared the varnish before sealing as follows: He used a (means !?) that opens the pores of the varnish, cleans it and smoothes it, and then the sealing (Diamondbrite) is applied. He didn’t guess what means it is, I forgot to catch up in the further conversation. However, my subsequent research did not enlighten me. ME can probably only be a precleaner. However, that the pores of the varnish are opened and he breathes is probably nonsense or ? Maybe a care professional can help me.