Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, I bought last week a Mazda Demio (Bj. 2000) very cheaply, in which the paint peels off. In some places about half a square meter of surface, on which not only the paint alone, but also the underlying white layer peels off. You can see at these places the naked sheet, at which however no rust has set itself yet. Does anyone know how such a thing can have happened? Is there possibly a chemical agent (acid or similar) that I have the Pellen can make the rest of the view easier? Otherwise I have a pig work in front of me. Here is a picture for the sighting!

Hi guys, since I’m not the metal professional, I wanted to ask how I can fix this. It’s about the fender of an old truck’s bodywork. There, where the fender was screwed on to the bodywork, it’s rusted through. The bodywork has a trapezoidal cut-out for the wheelhouse. The fender was probably mounted bare, painted probably only after the installation. On the inside the rust doesn’t go so far and the sheet metal surface is then perfectly fine. nge mal Bilder vom dem Teil an. Shown is the worst place. My plan: I cut the sheet round along the rust line, i.e. a well 4 cm wide strip and weld a sheet strip. I think that I weld on overlap, because you get from both sides, you can protect the overlap area well against rust. Which part would you put off? The faucet or the sheet strip to be welded? I would have said the sheet strip rather. work?

Was in the hardware store and had a few cans in the hand of Nigrin. Anti-rust agent make an iron-tannin layer and would protect the iron. But there was nothing about whether you have to rinse it off, or just apply it. Rust converter, there was on it that you should let it work and then rinse it with water.Question: Does the stuff really bring something (mainly on the underfloor) when you have rust in the beginning. Or you have to grind it away first. t that then, and then rust protection and rinses off that no longer ? Would be grateful for an “introduction” into this topic by a specialist. Or would like a link to a detailed description, gladly also with recommended means, which one takes.

Hi, I’ve got a Yaris BJ 2005. Technically still great in shot. Unfortunately today I cuddled with a garage column (see photos). Someone from a free workshop meant if it doesn’t matter to me optically I could just get over it with a paint pencil. Currently this is still my preferred option. Alternative would be to activate the comprehensive. Here I have 300€ excess and a contribution increase as cost point (effectively about 400€?). Probably not worth it any more, as the Yaris is probably only around 1000€ worth. What opinion since you? Can this even start to rust if this is only processed with a paint pencil?

Moin, due to the rust on the rear wheel, brought my Mercedes W204 to the coater on the left and right. It was so bad that a repair plate had to be installed. But that’s not the topic. When I picked up the car, I noticed next to the penetrating thinner stench in the interior and the paint with fingerprints that the windscreen wiper makes a strange scratching noise in the operation. As if the disc had been rough somehow. When I look closely, I notice that the whole front panel is fitted with tiny particles. These cannot be removed with glass cleaner and neatly scrubbing. It gets even better. Large parts of the vehicle paint also feel like sandpaper. Question: Can it be that the whole vehicle now has a paint mist layer due to insufficient gluing or incorrect handling when painting? I’m quite acidic, especially since the painting work is due to varnish noses noc would that now complain and demand that they polish the whole car. What do you say about it? Greetings Nubian

Good evening! I would need tips for 2 things. 1. I have a Fautras horse hanger, completely made of GRP, which is painted with an unknown color (versm. synthetic resin) and needs a new color dress. If I grind the current paint properly and then apply a 2k primer (epoxy) and put on it e.g. a single component hammer coat? the hanger stands under the roof and is therefore not exposed to the weather all year round. 2. I am building a BMW K100 new and got my aluminium tank really well defined by a carossier company. a few tenths of a millimeter, however, I also have to spat. goes there normal carossier lease? adheres to the Alu? then probably again the 2k primer as a basis for then a 2k-Nitrolacki in Uni-Black. Is this then enough gasoline festival, if you clatter? As equipment I have water-free air and 2 SATA pistols available. Thank you very much!

Hello together, I find it amazing with which split dimensions automobile manufacturers partly let new cars leave the production workshop, so that these then from the car dealership to the customers. As can be seen in the pictures (hopefully) the right rear door knows a very large split dimension. The gap at the lower end of the door is so large that one can easily grasp with the small finger behind the sheet and thus behind the door (this has been tried out). Unfortunately, so The workshop manager, nothing can be adjusted here any more. He said that 2 tolerances were met (something at the door stop and the bending of the door sheet), any tolerance for itself within the series production, but then in the overall result “something can come out. Also the manufacturer, where the case was forwarded to the technology department, is of the opinion that this gap “corresponds to the tolerances of a series production”. I can only express my condolences when it comes to quality standards at the same time. By the way, I have not been able to find such a gap in any other vehicle. For comparison, it is quite clear that the gap in the left rear side is completely in order. It is really sad that one should accept something like this. As I said, we are talking about a two-month-old new car.

Hallihallo, have already informed me in the forum, which possibilities there are for repairing so. First question: Why is never recommended to change the whole fender? Since I have found on the internet for my MAzda 323 already some from: 50€. The repairing with glass fiber spatula or a welded sheet would not be cheaper. If I weld it, or spat, is there the 2nd sheet metal, that one looks rusty also cut away at the photo? Then I would have to have 2 sheets one by one Is there a mistake in my mind?

I had bought a Fiat 500S 4 months ago, at the back of the trunk handle the paint is scoured, I was of course very enthusiastic about a new car with 5km and then immediately repair, because the car dealer did not take the car back. Now they returned the car to me yesterday and under the paint are like sand grains or bubbles. I immediately made the car dealer aware that there are small bubbles in the paint. e Reply I have to let the paint rest for 8-10 days and the paintr can allegedly grind it away. Can you really grind it on the paint? I’m afraid that I have problems with it later, wanted to keep the car a few years ago is not even a year old. Did he do his job well? I have a few pictures with uploaded of these bubbles/grains are about 30 pieces available. I can’t imagine that this can be something. Please for help

… and that’s where it happened. My half-yearly resold timber has broken and the jack has slipped forward, under the threshold. Unfortunately, this has pushed in the threshold :-(. Can you fix it? Would you recommend something to me? Someone similar experience? For a better impression for you I have attached some pictures.