Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello, I have bought a used MAZDA 5 CW, vehicle is in an absolute top condition. I could not find any defects at all and the dealer was friendly, even changed the brakes because of the rostrand, new TÜV and inspection done. I am very pleased with the car. What makes me stuttery I look under the car, I see a lot of superficial rust e.g. on some axles / joints. Also on the thresholds below is superficial rust. It is not dramatic, With the screwdriver test nothing is through, only superficial. Has my Renault e.g. also. But my BMW E60 is already 18 years old, BJ 2004 and does not have such a thing. The car is already significantly older and has run clearly more, but does not have the slightest superficial rust. However, the BMW has cost a lot of the Mazda, even the used 5 at that time has cost 5x more than the Mazda. Normal? Thanks and many greetings.

Hello, I finally managed to motivate myself to make my Jetta 2 Flott again, also because I finally have an engine for it, from a Vento accidenter. Conversion is all P&P. Everything is cleaned nicely and made chic again before the installation! But I just do EVERYTHING myself. I only think all the time about how I should treat the cavities and the underbody. Rust is almost no problem at all on the car for its 34 years, light edge rust only available that I I don’t want to have a fundamental discussion about what’s better now, I’d just like to know how you’re doing it, I don’t think there’s the “Holy Grail” there, which is the all-healing medicine now. I was thinking about fat (fluid film or Maik Sanders) for cavities and everything you can hardly get later. Underfloor I would have thought of wax from the spray cartridges and thus one thing. I protect everything. Of course, it would have to be repeated every few years, but that should be the least problem, vehicle would not be driven in winter anyway. I look forward to your experiences!

Good morning, I’m new here and I have almost no idea of cars at all. But I have a general idea of technology and am someone who likes to do most of it himself, even if the result is not so great afterwards. Is always a question of money… Now on the subject: I have a Skoda Roomster, year 2010 in Brilliant silver metallic. He already has some scratches and scratches, but mostly only on the plastic. Now I noticed, however, that on the tailgate rust is pictured et has. But luckily only from the outside. I want to grind this now, prime it, (fill it), paint it and polish it. And then “repair” the whole rest. I know, metallic is always bad to paint, but as I said, the result doesn’t have to be perfect. But I bought a paint pen from Skoda a few years ago with the right color code (8E) and it was way too dark. Ok, the car is old and the paint has changed, but I have now gel I’m sure that the problem is generally with this Skoda shade, even if the car is almost new. Does anyone know this shade and can tell me if there might be a brighter tone? Probably not… Are there other possibilities? Even mixing is not possible, for that I lack the equipment and hire a paintr is honestly too expensive for the car… I hope someone can help me here.

Hello, owns a Golf 5 from EZ 1/2008. Up to now the rust kept in limits, subject is well known. I changed wheels on Saturday, pressed very carefully into the threshold because I thought there was dirt and then the hole from the threshold was already there, before you saw nothing from outside. Technically, the car is impeccable, 1.4 80 hp gasoline, TÜV up to 1/2025 with 170,000 km. I can not repair myself, can please tell me what I calculi for such a repair. As much as I read about the topic of rust golf 5, wheel boxes, sleepers etc., I would know before I decide to repair it, it makes sense to remove the wheelbase and convince yourself what the rest looks like? Maybe you have some tips on what I should pay attention to. Thank you JD

Hello. After my broken exterior mirror had to be glued to the door and after mounting a new mirror, after pulling off the (silver fabric) adhesive tape, half of the adhesive tape remained on the paint. My question: How can I get as gently as possible (without the paint / grey metallic) attacked, the whole adhesive tape remains down ? Can I do this without nasty chemistry or alcohol ? Greeting

Hello I have to report here with a question. Also I have a cab of M25 completely revised. All rusted parts were separated from us by new sheets. All sheets were installed like original with an approx.12-15mm overlap and scored by hole welding or if possible. All grooves were painted before the welded with Owatrol and then immediately welded. I have still some places on the underbody which are not 100% dense, just like the e Konstrucktion it has allowed There are small cracks and Co. These places I would like to seal with a body seal mass that from below no water can penetrate into the grooves and dopplings. I actually want to make the sealing mass on the bare sheet metal that also affects only the underbody so not visible. But how do I go in the visible area before there there is the welding Visible crack where plates with dopplings have been placed. These still have to s I had roofed the grooves to be treated with owatrol again and then filled with fiber spatula then the crack of the dopplings. Is then the body still sprayed rust protection primer or how do you do that?? What do you have under the 2K topcoat, I have old sheets with sanded-on paint and partly new untreated sheets. What do I do with the only rusted spots in the visible area of the cab how do I treat this e. Mfg Liebscher

Good evening, I am completely desperate and more than sad and angry. I have now after several years a new, brought Q3 got. Someone has been so happy and promptly scratched with a key an oblique L. I was now in 4 workshops and 2 say, completely paint the whole side and the other two say, only paint the door. But everyone said that one will see a minimal color difference. I am currently on the following stand and share you my opinion with. I don’t want to have it completely or even only the door painted because I would disturb the color difference much more than a Macke. Nevertheless, the ,white , base varnish is unfortunately also through. Next worry would be , I let it finish (complete page 1500€; only door 400€) and a few days later I have something inside again. You never know . My idea would therefore be to carefully follow it up with the original color (have still the paint pen in the color) And then , “wipe it up.” Oh well, I would have this done as soon as I find a suitable workshop Please excuse that I don’t know any technical terms here but have no idea about it and can only reproduce what I found on the net. What’s your opinion? Would it be possible to defuse the scratch with zb Spot Repair? Thank you in advance

Hello guys, a young girl went to my Skoda practice in 2007 when she parked and got the police. I loved her very much, so I suggested to her that she do it without the insurance, so she won’t be upgraded. I offered her 500€, she offers 300€ otherwise she would like to do it through the insurance. What would you do in my place? A paintmaker I know well says I should charge 800€ otherwise about the insurance. I found that too much, so I find 500€ in order. Here you see the pictures of the damage, the door is scratched and closed. Thank you in advance for your advice! VG Lucky Luke

Dear community, unfortunately a little misadventure has happened to me while parking and I scratched the door handle at the driver’s side with a pillar. I fear that the scratches (at least in one place) are too deep to polish. In addition, I have a small but deep scratch in the bumper since I bought the car, this I would, if possible, take part here. But the scratch is a few mm deep, so I don’t know if I can fix it myself. Do you have any tips on how to repair the above mentioned damage yourself? If so, how do you do it best? (with a paint pen or with a spray?) Or should you rather leave your fingers behind yourself (amateur without experience) and let the professionals go? If I let the repair be for the time being, is there a risk of rusting? Additional info: This is a Superb with Keyless Entry (if relevant bzg. spare part) with Magnetic-Brown painting (0J0J). off for your tips. Lg Georg

Hello, 2 weeks ago I primed, spat, primed, then applied base varnish and clear varnish in several layers, always let it dry in between. Now I wanted to polish, but the polishing worked in the varnish and the varnish becomes dull. Then I wanted to pick up the polishing with spirit (not nitro thinning), then the clear varnish peels. How can the lax spirit dissolve the clear varnish after 2 weeks, what happened there? MfG C hris