Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello community, I have to remove rust at my daily (Megane 2 Grand Tour BJ 2006 – 234tkm) at the thresholdrs as well as at the rear wheel runs. At the wheel runs at the rear there is minimal rust (very many stone strokes which have set minimal rust). The thresholdrs look optically in the front area already worse. The varnish + primer is off by enormous stone stroke I think (looks like sand blasted). There – God’s thanks only superficial rust has accumulated. ubstanz is still very good – there are of course no holes. Therefore, remove rust well, prime, paint. My question would be now. Which primer should I use best? Can you give me some tips about anti-rust primer which product is useful? Must of course be overpaintable. Greetings & thanks in advance, Michael

Dear community, unfortunately, someone recently rammed the door into my vehicle (~3 years old) and then made a driver’s escape… I got offers from both the free painter and a contract workshop (with own paint shop). Results: 1) The free painter means for ~500€ he would bulge the damage and repaint the door (+co-painting) 2) The friendly guy has given me 2 options: a) For ~700€ the door bulge + repaint (here would be on b) For ~1300€ a new door with painting of the adjacent parts For such a small damage, a new door (2b) seems to me to be a bit exaggerated, but the friendly one said he could guarantee (in a negative sense) that I would see something exactly on the “contour line” after the repair. (light waves in the sheet metal). The free painter sounded much more optimistic. Who now has “right” and how do you estimate the damage? What about a reduction in the value of the vehicle on resale for the two options? I as a buyer would think to myself: No matter if the door is new, I don’t see anything at all. But when adjacent parts are painted, it sounds like more value reduction first, although the result certainly looks best (at 2b). PS: Ic h have a comprehensive, but think about paying for the damage from your own pocket in order not to be regraded. With options 1 and 2a I think that would still be worthwhile, with 2b rather not anymore. Thank you very much to you!

Servus, when driving this morning I ground a metal edge of a transport. My question is now, because I don’t know myself with a car, if I should treat the following paint damage and if so, what would be my best possibilities. I have to say, a damage to the car rather less bothers me, but I have to remember that the fender would then start to rust? The car is a Polo type 9N3. I’ll hang pictures. How much would you estimate the damage? On the transporter we could not detect any damage this morning, as said it was also a bare metal part that I sanded. Thank you for your help!

Hello all, I just have a w109 BJ 72 standing completely naked on a roll frame. Threshold/backplate and spare wheel chuck are newly welded. The car comes from California and has a neat layer of extra fillers and varnish that have to get down. Color is to be 180G – silvergraymetallic. Current offers are at almost 10k€ incl. control what is already a bad house number…but also go on for many hours. Therefore I want to prepare as much as possible I want to do a lot of preparation work myself. First of all, a fundamental question about the underbody and the weld sealing. Everything looks pretty good here. The aim is to paint this one out of true to the original in the vehicle paint, but without metallic effect. My building feeling says with UBS down the seal and rebuild everything in order not to experience any surprises…! What m Some painters would only paint over it because the original rust protection is probably the best. For the escape of almost 2,000€ in the room with dry ice blasts due to the large surfaces. My consideration was to work the surfaces with an exenter sander and only to radiate corners and co….can you recommend here a good grinder in the grit…? Possible with suction because of the grinding dust..? What do I do with the cavities in the longitudinal beams…? Can i ch that somehow also treat and protect..?

Hello guys, I hope I ended up here in the right subforum. I bought my car a month ago, 4 years old 56000 km. The paint looked good, a few small things that the dealer left me away. After 3 weeks and about 800 km I suddenly got quite a few small decoys on the bonnet. The car was not washed yet, was not really dirty and on the highway I did not hear a single stone blow, let alone a stone hail. This is a bit strange and would like to talk to the dealer about it. Can you give me advice on what that can be? Car was mostly in a larger parking lot.

Hello together, after I’m about to work with 2K paint for the first time and two specialist dealers have proven to be extremely incompetent, I try to get my questions answered here. I want to paint from my oldtimer bonnet and doors. Since I can’t afford a service provider and have access to compressor and spray gun, I want to do this now. So I got from Sikken’s Autocryl Pluss MM paint and now have a Question: I have to touch the paint first with hardener (50%) and dilution (30%). How long is the paint then processable? Since I have to paint three parts, which I cannot spray directly in a row for reasons of space, some time will pass in between. And now I am uncertain whether I should mix all the paint immediately, or always small quantities (which, of course, is rather annoying…). Greeting, jo

Hello, as you can see from the attached picture, it has hit me as well. That could also have happened differently… Now, however, the question arises what you can do here. I will introduce myself to a few workshops this week, but wanted to get to know in advance what costs I have to reckon with here and above all how best to solve this. Sure, the door and bumper at the back probably have to be spashed and painted completely. and the wheel box replaced. Do I see that right? Treasures here so cost around 2,000 euros. My concern is the fender, which is quite dented and also the paint is partly completely off. Can one repair here also still, or must the fender or, the affected piece be replaced and rewelded? I actually want to avoid that. I think this goes to the burden of durability. What do you think? And above all, how is the fender effectively painted, normally I would repaint the whole component so that you can see no color differences. What do you do with the fender? Bzw. what would you advise? Many greetings and many thanks

Hello! Since my ordered Golf 8 GTE with full equipment is a significant value next spring, I’m considering whether it makes sense to have it foiled. Who has had experience with it – regardless of the vehicle model? • What does a foling cost? • How much does the foil protect against rockfalls and scratches? • How do you use a foiled car? Wash normally? With or without wax? No problem in the washing machine? • Can the foil be removed easily, w If you want to sell the car? • Is the original paint like new, or does it suffer from the foliation? • With my matt-painted motorcycle you can see stripes when you drive over it with your fingernail, for example. Is that also the case with the car being tortured? A lot of questions, I know, but that’s probably the questions everyone is asking themselves about a foliation. Thank you for every answer, Greeting Hans

Hi! I looked at 2 Arteon used cars at the VW dealer. Both leasing returners. Both should be accident-free according to VW house. I had a paint knife with me. One had paint so about 140-180 on it, the other was on the outside surfaces more like 220 and on the roof surfaces so 240. Dealer thinks that all is ok and accident-free. Can this be normal that there are so tolerances from factory?

Yesterday the big laundry after the winter and when the leather is removed suddenly the paint on the threshold (driver’s door) peels off. Of course it looks like so, so whether we have stayed permanently with our shoes on it. But that is definitely not the case. We are sneaker carriers and also still articulated. Has also only 13 TKM run. Such a thing must not be. Now also the second horror, the VW dealer says that it is our fault and a guarantee performance probably not be The only reason I can think of is that last year the driver’s door was set up. Maybe the paint was damaged. But the dealer says that it can’t be. Nothing can have been done from the outside, since the door can’t be reached. Do you have an idea (or at least comforting words)? I have attached pictures.