Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello municipality, I have a sheet metal damage on the car and am not sure if the TÜV will complain about this and I may not get a badge. I have to repair this before or it is enough to go over it with a paint pen, e.v. Spachtel. In a workshop I already had it looked at, which meant the repair would cost between 2000 and 4000 euros. That is too expensive for me, because the car is already almost 10 years old, because it does not pay anymore and therefore I would be would be nice if you could look at the pictures. Please pay particular attention to the damage on the threshold below, picture 5, 6, the TÜV complains about this? Thanks ! r2d2

Hello guys! I would need your help and your good advice! I just snapped past our stupid wall at the driveway (I thought it would have been, but look). Now it looks really bad, but it looks relatively superficial. Can someone give me a quote about what all the fun in the workshop will cost me? thank you already! Your Joanna P.S picture is here!!

Hi guys, I’m turning to you today because I have a problem with a painting. It’s not about a body, but about a metal channel lid for a wastewater inspection shaft on my driveway. I wanted to repaint these lids with a metal protective varnish from the Hornbach and I used the _three_ old lacquer layers as well as possible, except for bare metal. After that I came up with the great idea of using rust converters (or that I used) to use an A rust converters dry/harden etc. and then the Hornbach varnish on it. Then looked good for several weeks, until I watered the front garden and the well water also fell down on the lid. At some point, rust was formed again superficially, but one could “wipe” it away and while the lid was wet, the varnish dissolved and became more liquid again. The varnish could be simply scraped, similar to the pick-up. afür ist I guess the strongly iron-containing well water, it generates again superficial rust and lets the rust converter work again and breaks my varnish?! Is this at all possible or am I on the wrong track? Shouldn’t the rust converter be “ready” after drying and not react any more? In looking into it, I think it was unnecessary to apply the rust converter, I should have painted right after finishing and everything would be good (I hope).

Have a Opel Omega B 1998 combo have removed a lot of rust And under the rubber filler plug is a hole.There is no reperature sheet !!!!! What can be done see picture zb glue sheet !!!!! Greeting jochen

Hi there, yesterday my cupra unfortunately became victim of a small parking damage. The cause is fortunately known to me. There are obviously no deep scratches or similar created. It was quite possible to polish out everything. Split dimensions also fit all. Unfortunately I now have a slight dent / deformation in the bumper. It is unfortunately bad to recognize on the pictures. The dent lies between grill and headlight. What possibilities there is such a such a one n damage fix? Does smart repair make sense here? Would not like to have the whole bumper painted. In the appendix a few pictures of the damage. Thank you! p3hdl

Moin, question to the experts. A nice contemporary probably thundered his door against the wheel running back right and left a dent with salmon damage exactly on the edge. The question I’m asking now is whether a paint doctor can fix the damage without painting the entire side part immediately? I know it’s difficult to answer the question without even seeing the car but under certain circumstances someone had the same or at least a similar problem. is a Mercedes V-Class in black metallic. Gruss Petz

Good morning, my wife, while parking with Skoda Fabia very slowly, was striping another car with the result like on photo. There was hardly anything to hear when touching. Is it about the paint damage on the right. On the left there are also deeper scratches that don’t get away from it. Strangely enough, you don’t see anything at all at our Fabia on the paintwork… I looked for hours….not even a trace. Does this only indicate surface damage? The other wants to do it now about insurance afterwards I was talking about a friendly agreement and 300-400 Eur and he didn’t report for 2 weeks at all. What would you like about costs? With insurance it will usually be more expensive or? Thank you very much in advance!

Hello, I repaired a headlight, inside I jumped something out of the grass. However, I had to remove the spreader, which went quite well with the hot air dryer and a carpet knife. I scratched out the old glue residue, afterwards I will grind it cleanly. With what do I stick the glass back in? Sikaflex 221 I don’t like to take it, it always remains slightly elastic and if I have to remove the glass again, it is a fight to remove it. Otherwise, I still have Union cement, but I do not know how this behaves. Is that also so easily soft? Bzw. what is best for this purpose?

Hello, my regards from everyone! I have acquired a Jaguar XJ40, in good condition, now after years I suspect that rust could be there. At least it wants to find out. I will drill holes according to the cavity plan (and at a few other places) and check them with an endoscope camera. Then depending on the condition, the corresponding measures such as rust removal, Mike Sanders grease and all the other products that are available. My chuck in the Bosch cordless screwdriver only goes up to 10mm, after that only a step drill is considered as a tool. Question: are there any lubricants or other products with which I can lubricate the drill/miller so that no metal chips can pour into the cavity during drilling or milling? Thank you in advance and best regards!