Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hi, short simple question: What kind of glue can you recommend to stick to a plastic stick? It has got a little hare hinge (just a small crack below the recess for the fog lights). Is maybe 3cm long and doesn’t even notice, just wanted to stick something behind it for stabilization (the best thing that can hold out the next rabbit impact). Maybe someone has experience and can let me share it. Thank you. Greeting Me talhead

Hello all, I bought a Corsa D built in 2006 in June last year, which has an accident damage on the passenger side. Since this is my first own vehicle and I don’t know much about cars, I had the vehicle undergoed a used car check at ATU before the purchase and they have assessed the damage as unproblematic sheet metal damage and have found no arguments that would have spoken against the purchase. Except for the failure of the Lamdasonde, the I did not have any problems with the vehicle. Unfortunately, the Corsa the day before yesterday had fallen due to the TÜV test, with the considerable defects that the bearing B-pillar was damaged at the bottom right. According to the workshop where the test was carried out, this was not reperable. However, I was advised that another examiner might be able to assess this differently. Now I wanted to ask you for your assessment. Do you believe it despite the S would it be worth replacing the passenger door with an undamaged one and possibly make cosmetic repairs to the B-pillar so that the examiner doesn’t notice the damage so much, or does it have no influence?

Hello, for some vehicles e.g. threshold outer sheets are painted in the visual area with stone impact protection. E.g. the Polo 4 (9N). This is usually applied with a paint gun, which then also restores the structure as ex factory. My question: Is there also usable stone impact protection in spray cans? The question because I have neither compressor nor gun. That the structure will not get to the original –> negligible. So far, I only know wax U-protection (which evades due to the permanent stickiness) & bitumen U-protection (which eschews due to embrittlement). Is there any U-protection alternatives that come close to the original PVC? If so, just in the can to pass. It is specifically about U-protection / stone impact protection, whereby I consider whether a chassis varnish would not be an alternative.

The short history of my question: Incidental accident (I was driven up from behind), expert opinion estimated it as economic total damage. Supposedly almost 10,000 € Reparatu costs with a vehicle value of 7,000 €. As the sum comes about, no idea. Externally very little to see, the bumper has got some scratches however completely remained. Otherwise a few decorative strips / apertures have gone to break and a taillight has leaked since then. Everything in my The biggest factor is probably the cross-carrier, which has bent very evenly inwards. More is not included in the report, for worse damages. I will probably fix the damage myself due to the not so high vehicle value. I will do without painting because of the few scratches, the bumper is still good. Now I would probably change the cross-carrier, only with regard to the upcoming TÜV (is probably a safety lack?). I am very well positioned in my craft, also with regard to the tool. In addition, my father was a car master at a young age, so there is still something ”old” know-how available. Alone the welding would be a factor in which it could fail. Therefore, the question before I build the rear more or less apart. Is such a cross-carrier to be welded? Or are they simply bolted? With an image like this looks new to my vehicle. a screw connection?https://www.myparto.com/img/…_9671246280_QQ130U613B_201905201012.jpg I would be grateful for any help! Thank you!

Hello! It’s about a vehicle where after welding work on the threshold after the last HU holes were drilled in several places in it to flood it with cavity seal. These holes were closed with rubber caps. Does this pose a problem for the next HU? Thank you in advance for your answers!

Hello people! First of all, I would like to say that it is clear to me that Hammerite is certainly not the means of choice on the vehicle. But let me just do it: The car (Golf2) is completely rebuilt. First of all, all attachments (axle parts) are completely sanded, treated with industrial rust converter, washed, treated with sticky ground, then partly tinted and then painted. As varnish is usually used Brantho Korrux. In the engine compartment instead of the sticky ground 2K epoxy primer of Epiform is used. So I would like to protect the whole story again with a clear varnish. What should I take from this paint structure in the engine compartment and on some axle parts Hammerite hammer stroke dark blue over it. I like this paint simply over the measures! Unfortunately, the paint should not be special oil/Benzine resistant. So I would like to protect the whole story again with a clear varnish. What should I take from it? As you see, I don’t only rely on “rust-protecting” properties of the Hammerite. That Brantho Korrux is indeed super, except for the use of clear paint. What a reme of the reg.

On a 2004 polo gnaws at the tailgate of the rust. I have now organized a suitable one at the verwerter. Very well preserved, colour even fits quite well. Not the same, but “time-appropriate” is the keyword. Extensions are always easy, but now it is supposed to be on the car. So far I have changed only one fender and one bonnet, especially with the latter I took quite a long time, until it was properly adjusted. But maybe I also only have the wrong technology + missing experience. How do you go about it most meaningfully? “Setting possibilities” offer on the one hand the screws on the hinges (borings are larger), the lock bracket in the body and the rubber buffers on the tailgate. Where do you start first, build it first and look at it or turn everything into a “base position”… ?

Hey people can give me a few tips for rust treatment on the vehicle? Once at the rear fender. At the door and at the roof at the front window. Lg

Good morning, my bulli should get a new varnish. I.e., old paint down, prime (with Corroless No1) and new paint up (by grinding, grinding, grinding…). So far I have the order… I have a HVLP gun with a 1.3 nozzle. Pressure I wanted to adjust to 2.5-3bar. The paint is a 1-component resin varnish (alkyd resin varnish). As this will be my first paintwork, I have a few questions. Up to what grain I have to prime up until I can a) prime? b) paint? And, with what grain do you start? Is there possibly a WWW site that can be used as a tutorial? I am aware that painting is a tricky thing and the result will not be 100%. But I try to do the project as well as possible… I will then upload a few previous photos here later. About a few tips I would be grateful…

Meal! After already 1.5 years the NSD on our touran looks at least unsightly. Especially with a black car not exactly an eye-catcher. (photo) Would like to paint the thing simply black. Already someone made. How hot is the thing actually, when it gets really hot. Greetings. Micha