Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hello together and hello dear paintrs here among us, I would have a question. They come to mind a bit late, because I just this morning put the juice orange at the paintr in front of the door.. MonaLisa_22 and I started this year’s preparation of the juice orange two weeks ago. In doing so, we looked more carefully at the front blower times and found that it is ready again for the paintr: approx. 150-200 stone strokes were hardly to be reworked properly in an acceptable time frame (with 1 brush in several passages carefully fill up with paint, dry, 3000 wet finish, polish, cover with clear varnish, dry, 3000 wet finish, final polish). To this one still saw where I put the deep orange times against a low limit stone? And now I have to buy a clear darkening of a place with smart repair. And that the perfectionist in me does not hold out a coat of paint. #xb; all that has a devastating effect on the same layer?

Hello together, I have a small big problem. And that’s when a nice person scratched the boot cover of my 206 CC. The car is Chronos Silver metallic, color code EZR. Now I was extra in the Peugeot workshop because I assumed that I would get a best repair of the damage there. I was told it didn’t have to be painted the complete lid, but you painted it, so only the horizontal area where the Peugeot lion is located and you would not see any color difference. For 170 € I let that happen and the result is not so good now. If the sun doesn’t seem to be directly on it you can see nothing, but in the bright sun the newly painted area sparkles much more than the other “old” paint. Znd if you look sideways on it you can see that the area looks like a slightly brighter cloud. Now I was in the works to address that and there was told me that the new paint will take about 4 weeks. Can it really be that? Can’t I just think about it’s going to change it?

Hello people I am looking for a good online shop where you can order metallic varnish,use about 1.5-2l for a Mitsubishi Lancer CJO with the paint code T73 or T73B. Will repaint the front carrier and the underside of the bonnet, top of the bonnet and the bumper I want to have the paintr made. The price here for our paint in the vicinity varies for 1l between 100-21€ per l net!!!! In the net the price is about 50€ per l gross???? Only what is good? MFG

Hello, My former beautiful Golf VI brake calipers have become almost grey from the salt winter (see picture). Now I would like to bring the original silver color again with FoliaTec brake caliper varnish. On Foliatec pages I found Two Silver Color – Stratossilver and Stratossilver Metallic? Which color would you recommend to me so that it looks like ex works? Thanks already for answers. Greetings,

Depending on the model, Servus, exhaust rust is quite a plague, especially with South/Western European manufacturers, but also with partially affordable Japanese spare parts from the accessories, I already had more than one exhaust that barely survived the warranty period. Is there anything that can be done preventively? For example, flush out such a new end pot directly before assembly with any zinc pampe or something like that?

Moin, unfortunately, my vehicle got acquainted with a shopping cart of a fleeting person. Was now painting and wanted to have some other damage removed in the train. Go around a W176 with Cosmosblack metallic paint. To be done – completely paint DACH – Paint both doors to the right – fender right – bumper back left Remove scratches – driver door Side edge of the door + vehicle completely polish Unfortunately, don’t know me with the prices. What do you think, can cost such a thing? Greeting, Tom

Servus ! Had my company car because of a small accident damage in the paint shop. Now his butt is so to speak all around lifted and looks like new Unfortunately the [censored] in the paint shop have the whole car from the front to the back and down to the top with clear varnish fogged!!!!! The windows look dusty with sunlight and the paint feels like sand paper…. I rubbed the windows with dilution extensively, seem to have become clean again (however, I only know when I get back into the sun with it), but with the paint I had no success with SwirlX and hand operation you can get something like that back with the polishing machine and nem good means at all, without grinding the car to the tin flatness? The car has a two-colour paintwork: Top Uni-Red without clear varnish, from the door handles down silver-metallic, with clear varnish.

Hello friends of the stainless vehicle, I don’t have a vintage car, but hope I get help anyway. I’m looking for a good cavity conservation for my thickness. I worked on the predecessor with Mike Sanders at the time and was more than satisfied, cavities and underbody I did with it. Now it’s time to treat the new thickness. I’m honest that all was too elaborate at the time and it was a huge mess. Therefore my question: is there anything reasonable in spray can with probe for the cavities and can you also recommend something good for the underbody from the can? Greeting Flo

Hello together. I have discovered in the net an interesting vehicle offer of a Alpina B3 BJ. 08/2021. Now this vehicle offer does not get out of my mind. I was already at the “dealer” and visited the vehicle. The damage: accident at the front left. fender missing inside wheelhouse (Blech) dented door A-pillar dented brake booster to the engine pulled ABS control unit broken spring leg bent fastening axle handlebar bent drive for windscreen wipers broken front apron broken charging air cooler in the wheel box left broken both laser headlights defective The inner lower injection wall (below the front wheel) in the area of the brake power amplifier bent bent The valve display has a jump All airbags triggered driver’s seat is crooked The driver’s door has a gap up to the roof The rear door on the left also has a gap to the roof The front passenger’s door has a gap to the roof The spring dome has torn out of the Holm. After seeing the damage I talked about a body workshop. It was actually not a ready car to the accident.

Hello together, as an absolute loan, I hope that you can give me an assessment here. I have a car scraped for the left front side, name has not been left, so I am currently sitting on the cost should not report to the police yet. Have my insurance already contacted and sent me to a workshop. There they gave me 2 offers. 1.) For the insurance – 1.350€ there has to be a new bumper. 2.) If I would pay it without insurance 800€ will be repaired normally. Since I have never had such an offer I can not estimate the costs, with the insurance I would pay 300€ self-financing and always the upgrade. According to insurance this would be for the next years 300€ extra cost + keep lower SF class. If then I have obtained another offer of a smart repair workshop, here I got an offer of 250€. Since this is now so gross price differences I am not sure whether Smart Repair really creates this or the price is normal and the other workshop simply wants to earn due to my ignorance neatly money. What price would be at “Kraterverkehrerverkehrer.