Category: Bodywork & Paintings Forum

Hi together, I’m currently looking at one or the other T4 to use it as a camper on various tours. The topic of rust is always present, belongs to the T4. But I lack experience and expertise to assess certain points. Especially to a vehicle, 300tkm of 99: wheel boxes etc. are not a topic, but there are critical places on the windscreen. (see photos) in how far can this be easily fixed? One says rust at the window is a no-go, the other one says rust at the window is a no-go. says completely normal with the T4, has to be done every now and then. Maybe share his experience with me, thank you 😉 BG Sebastian

Hello Have an appointment with the evaluator only on Monday. Can anyone tell me what about the repair costs. That is also year of construction 2012 Thank you Andre

Hello guys, I’m about to choose to buy a used seat. Model Ibiza 6J5, 1.4 16V (63KW), EZ 06.2015, about 45,000km run and brown. The vehicle has quite good paint damage on the driver’s side (see picture). I would be very grateful about an assessment of the costs of repairing this damage, since I am not so familiar here. Then, especially, it’s about the price negotiation. Thank you!

Hello! It’s about a 20-year-old vehicle, which is supposed to exist the HU the very last time. I worry about the sleepers. On both sides the sleepers have been welded before: with the one sleeper there was an accident damage, which was repaired. The other sleeper had at the last HU a place, which did not hold up to the screwdriver of the examiner. There was then a piece of sheet metal welded in there. There are several places that might not be able to withstand the tester’s screwdriver. There, the metal bends slightly easier when you press on it with your finger than in other places. I don’t know if rust is the cause of it. There are no visible rust holes. Now I’m thinking about how I can handle the vehicle’s failure. Even with the screwdriver trying to destroy everything, I don’t want to. do not simply make the sleepers on both sides (at least partially) blank and then simply for safety (must you still look where/how exactly) a thin sheet metal (must be somehow adjusted to the curved shape of the sleeper; alternatively buy complete vehicle-specific sleeper repair sheets and stick on to the old sleepers?) glued to the whole surface with body glue, then pull over spatula, a little grind and with underbody protection and/or spruce varnish in It’s all about the fact that the vehicle doesn’t fall through the HU due to rust. Unfortunately, I don’t have a welding machine and I don’t have much experience with it, so that the above-mentioned solution would be an idea. Alternatively, I had thought of metal spatula. Since the vehicle is certainly worth hardly more than 500 euros in the current condition and will also be thrown off in the foreseeable future. should the costs be kept as low as possible. I would actually like to work in front of the HU, as otherwise I certainly have to show correct spot welding for newly applied sheet metal. What is your advice? Thank you in advance for your help!

Hello, After unsuccessful search I write on it, so I am just about to expand the trunk and there the disguise had to believe a little. This had disappeared and has behind it still had plenty of free space which I can use well. So fast times saw off. Now the question: how can I close the part with plastic again flushly? I thought the ends a little grind up / roughen up and then with GFK over it (from the back side something as support pure If someone has experience, does the GRP work with the panel a stable fixed connection? Don’t have to look nice will be covered anyway 😉 Add still photos… For other suggestions I would be grateful. Thanks and greetings

When changing the license plate holder on the tailgate, I unfortunately found that there are small rust spots underneath. How would you do that? The BMW is built in 2009 of course would like to drive it as long as it is possible, I love the car.

Moin Together, the following scratch a lot of me at the rear passenger door of my Superb’s. The friendly paintr around the corner would try to grind and polish for free. (Belongs to the service) Only today there was no one from the workshop. According to him, the scratch is through the clear varnish and he can’t promise success. Painting would be over 1000€. Then he would stay in it. I took a few pictures and hope you can tell me how h The last picture is probably the best of the light conditions. Greeting Pascal

Hello, I’m a student and when I got out of my car I damaged the Mercedes 180 with my car door next to me. Brav as I am, I contacted the police who took up the damage. Now I get the information from my liability insurance that the repair should cost 1700 € and also a reduction in value of 250. Actually I wanted to pay the damage myself, because I do not want to be higher graded in the insurance, But I can’t afford that anymore. I have the feeling that I should be excluded from the other side and that the report cannot be correct. My insurance does not want to send it to me for data protection reasons. ???? Can the damage, even if it is repaired in a Mercedes workshop, be so high? If it were my car, I would at best have the damage covered here and believe that the other side will do the same and the full insurance amount Can anyone advise me what I can do here and if I can do anything about it?

I did not find a suitable forum. I had the following problem with Carglass. It had to be changed with my 1 year old vehicle the windscreen over partial cascade. When accepting the vehicle, I requested the note in the order that my car was delivered without damage to body, dashboard, roof sky. It is actually common during an inspection. Does not want to avoid stress that – if during the WS change – this does not occur. was denied to me! Without any proof! Is that so usual? How else could I prove any defects that they were not before? Photos? Thank you

Hi first of all was a reader so far and today I have a question myself or. Stand before a decision what I should do I apologize in advance if I made a mistake so understanding thank you My Golf 5 Ed 30 has a bit rusty on the underfloor so easy Have seen a video of Gerhard Holzknecht where he first removes the rust with the wire brush then brunox on it after drying rope grease My progress is first with angle loop He removes the rust with a pot brush Then brunox and afterwards rope grease But I also heard the underfloor protection on synthetic resin base should be good Do almost everything myself with the vehicle from the joint to the tooth rims but honestly with the rust I don’t know and paint also I know that no paint can remove rust for life but want I have a few years rest Please thank me for your news first [From engine talk from the topic ‘Edition 30 Unterboden’ overfeeling Rt.]