Category: Chevrolet & Daewoo Forum

Hello, we are just about to buy a car for my lady, who has to do 120 km of work every day. There are not quite so old vehicles from 2000 with no more than 70,000 km and car gas system (re-equipment by me) to choose from. So she spins off 35,000 km a year and after 2 years the value of the vehicle is halved. Thus the price is located at about 4000 Euro (without gas system). There are very good questions about the Daewoo Leganza and the Hyundai Sonata around 2000/2001. a question: Which experiences are there with the vehicles, tendency rather Leganza or Hyundai? Which can gas better tolerate? Spare parts costs, reliability, characteristics etc. Which glides better at 120-150 km/h with cruise control (believ both?)? I am grateful for all the experiences, even bad ones.

Hello, wanted to start a survey, who drives everything here the new Aveo 1.2 (came out in June 08), the LPG variant possible. Maybe this far too unknown, attractive car deserves a website according to this model. I would like to participate with photos and texts! In the medium term it would be nice if a small community would arise with exchange of experience, technical information and repair tricks. thank you

Hello guys, after I almost praised the Nubira about the green clover, my guarantee is just around, suddenly the automatic mutes. Can actually only be an electronic fart, as it only occurs sporadicly. I think if it were something mechanical, the problem would continue / worsen. So it started with that suddenly the gear was out, as if someone had put on N. At the same time the engine check light lit up. Stopped, everything switched on And then there was still peace and light again. Today, strong incline, position D with hold function one: flashing crossed square in the gear indicator, engine check lamp again on. Made out, key out (such a system restart often works wonders), everything again at the beginning. Engine check lamp is still on, gear indicator is again ok, transmission does not switch (feeled was only the third gear inside). Again, all plugs controlled and such a small hose (similar to a vacuum hose used to be attached to the ignition manifolds) with a clamp. Switched through in the stand: Very rough switching processes, sometimes flashing quadrilateral, sometimes ok.. Driven a bit, transmission behaves normally, but the engine check lamp does not go out. I am very grateful for your tips! Greetings from the Eifel!

Moin, I’ve been having a problem with my Chevrolet for quite some time now and I was hoping that I might be able to help here. As soon as it gets cold (from low one-digit plus temperatures) my car has a lot of problems to start. In the last about 3 years so far battery, glow plugs and the control unit for the incandescent time have been changed. The start now looks like this, I activate the ignition (fuel pump is then also audible) and then deactivate it again, this process like When I try to start it it sounds like in the attached audio file. After a short wait I try it again with the same procedure. Most of the time the car starts with this or another try. I know that I have to go to the workshop with it, but it would be good if I could already limit the problem a bit because I was already told in the workshop that the troubleshooting can take from an hour to a day. e. In addition, I noticed that the engine does not really come to temperature during the ride and the temperature display always remains approximately at half the usual temperature. Did the car run in the stand, then it comes to temperature. Maybe this is somehow related that a temperature sensor is defective? When I ran it in the stand, however, the error code 79 appeared at some point. However, the last oil change was not a year ago and e. If the engine is switched off and restarted, the display is gone and does not show up again. By the way, the year of construction is 2012, Diesel Does anyone have any idea what the opener could be?

Hello! I’m new here and don’t know any more…. I bought a kalos sunshine with 94 hp from the dealer in November 2011. Shortly after the purchase the problems started. The worst problem that worries me the most is the following: car can’t start, it’s just orgling around… battery can’t be, because everything in the car works, immobilizer we also checked, was also not, spark plugs replaced, it wasn’t, with the very oily…. (why ?????) Error readout allegedly no error… Permanent diagnostic device for 3 days, not found…. If the car doesn’t start, and I try again and again, and then it will work again and again, the rev indicator goes extremely high in idle (also when gearing in and clutch kick…) and it smells extremely like gasoline! And it comes out a very black cloud in the back….. Also I noticed that the display of the cooling does not work properly, goes only after eternal times hoc h ( last time only after about 50 km… ) I don’t dare to drive away big anymore, because I am afraid every time that he doesn’t start at all. It’s not healthy for the car either, is it? I’m absolutely layman, so please indulge in describing the problem… 🙂 Got a used car warranty, but that’s still such a thing…. I don’t want to go to the dealer anymore, but it’s another topic… maybe I can take the guarantee too. another Chevrloet dealer….. is still being clarified. So, does anyone know the cause of my problems or has it had itself???? Thanks already for every tip!

Good evening together. I have the following problem. My car loses air at partial load. I can give full throttle and it pulls, no problem. But if I drive for example 100 km/h and then it goes uphill, then the speed gets fluctuations and a noise is developed as if the air loses. In the stand you can generate the noise meanwhile, which did not go before. It sounds like a pupup valve, which one likes to use in the tuner scene. The problem is If we’re under 15 degrees (for example in the morning), then it’s all stress-free. So far it’s been changed: Wastgate valve, LMM, intake bridge, transmission oil, VTG valve. The intake hoses should also be in order. I’ve been to different workshops now and no one can find the error. Do you know about this? https://youtube.com/shorts/X4y5cud_9Io?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/hpVtZbeQ3bo?feature=share

Hello, because I have found nothing about the search function I open a new topic here. If I have been blind, please excuse this. I need your advice. I bought a used Aveo year 2011 from the dealer before not even 4 weeks ago. One day before the run an inspection was made according to manufacturer’s specification as well as TÜV. Here is a guarantee for the and the parts. This also includes the air conditioning and the blower motors. The day before yesterday I was my car washes on such a box with high pressure hose, because I still fight with the wax layer on my windshield, which makes me almost blind in the morning during rain and oncoming traffic. Since yesterday evening, the ventilation, which can be clearly heard at levels 3 and 4, makes a kind of noise of blow every few seconds. So it blows and blows and blows and in between always comes a short push, which sounds as if an extra push is given again. One second. When I turn on the air, it stops, otherwise it is to be heard on all available settings, with and without climate, warm as cold. Blatterwerk is none under the windscreen wipers in the ventilation. Now I have to determine what exactly is broken to check whether this falls into the warranty performance. Has anyone experienced this similar and can tell me what components or errors are in question? Thank you very much in advance and a nice weekend all On the other hand,

Hello together, am from Oberbayern, Rosenheim. I have a problem for the registration of my Camaros. I bought that vehicle from Switzerland in December. So to become a mechanic of my trust due to modifications and subsequent TÜV acceptance. Last week TÜV received with expert reports for the approval of H. As far as so good. But now that starts. In the Swiss letter the first registration is indicated with 1997. But car is built 1990, model 1991. Before the acceptance at the TÜV my mechanic asked at the registration office according to whether it is possible to get an H approval. The latter affirmed that, but it must be noted in the report by the TÜV which year of construction is that car. This could also be determined by the TÜV on the basis of the FIN and has also kindly stated in the report. Well that problem, I get no registration for that car because of the first registration. The agreement with the colleague is not correct. This is responsible for the county anyway, but I belong to the city of Rosenh eim. I have to prove when the first registration took place and this must be 30 years back for an H Zulssung. That Baijahr is not relevant. Unfortunately, can not prove this, have nothing. Carfax has nothing about my car, Chevrolet unfortunately can not help me either. The previous owner also has no documents, that car has received from a dealer without further documents. On request at the car dealership must check that the still documents for the proof for the first registration They bought a car from a private person in Switzerland, so they didn’t import it themselves. However, I was informed that I could allow a car as a normal car, but the TÜV had to change the report. So again to the TÜV there once asked. In the case of the cases. The examiner was very surprised that I didn’t get an H certificate, it was so agreed and the examiner did the same as advised. The car did not meet the requirements of 1997. So today again to the registration office. They also made contact with the inspector from the TÜV. Unfortunately without satisfactory result. Must say that all participants are very friendly. State of the art is now that the registration office gives me next week how/if I can register car at all if the proof cannot be provided. Has someone had the same experience as me, and then found a solution? F all that car dealership can provide me with no proof of the required first registration, then there is at all a possibility to find out when and where that car was first registered? Sorry people for the long text. Thank you Killa

Hello dear ones, I am new here in this forum and have a question that I am currently very busy with. I currently own a Chevrolet Spark 1.0 LS (from 2012), which I bought 4.5 years ago. He is a gasoline engine, equipped with an additional gas tank (LPG), which has already been integrated in the purchase. The car already has about 127,600 km on it. I bought it at the time for 5000 Euro and had a suitable plan to drive it as long as possible. Now there is jedo Now the question is whether it is worth repairing this damage at all, or whether it is economically better to get a new car (in this case a used one)? To the damage: I had to have a repair of the car last time, because the engine had a car car problem (I can’t describe exactly what the problem was, because unfortunately I didn’t have a lot of A This problem has been solved more or less (in addition, an inspection of the gas tank was included in the cost), but it has turned out that a valve has to be changed at the bottom of the engine. Currently, 3 of the cylinders run to 15 bar, which is ok, but one of the cylinders currently only runs to 10 bar. If I don’t repair the damage soon, the one cylinder would lubricate permanently and then I can’t even get the car started. If I would get a new used car, it should cost up to 6000 euros, as I can’t afford more. What would you do in my place? Sell or still have it repaired? I know that this is difficult to answer by remote diagnosis, but a rough assessment would also help me for the first time. A big advantage of my car is the additional gas tank, which saves me on fuel costs (I drive regularly, but rather shorter stretch). In addition, in the last years I have had at least additional costs of about 500 euros each year, be it TÜV, brake pads change, inspection etc., which will not be less in the long run (this would again speak for a new car). I am happy about every answer. Many greetings and stay healthy!

Hello, screwdriver friends. I’m in despair at the moment. It’s about a Chevrolet Kalos Bj 2005 94 Ps Last year I noticed that my car started to jerk after a cold night and I no longer have any strength to get up a mountain. After a little time and some KM then everything was fine again and I had no further problems over the ride. However, the problems continued until the warm days and stopped immediately. After the days of this year became colder again, the problem came up again and this time more violently. Now it was the case that at first the engine jerked without end and it went out when it turned down in the curve. After a restart, it always sounded as if the engine was going to swallow. After I started the engine again, I started driving and the problem didn’t occur any more. Be, the problem was gone again and I was able to continue. Then I drove to the workshop and they thought it was necessary to replace both lambda probes. Done. Both lambda probes were also replaced with the AGR, spark plugs valve lid, oil and oil filter change. The workshop called me that now everything is OK and I can pick up my car again. done. Test drive it was not to be made to fade as before. Much more performance no jerking or swallowing. The next day, however, I noticed a little familiar jerking and I thought oh no. The jerking went away immediately and I could drive normal. But now I drove across the country road and noticed immediately I did not come over 80kmh… Workshop called…Rosselklappe maybe dirty. Then I dismantled the suction hose and looked at with you throttle flap and yes it looked a little messed up. Cleaner on it everything cleaned up, drove off. I have to say here that as soon as I was at 80-100 kmh, that car then also shrugged in the lower aisles but only when I once drove 80-100 kmh not before. Again the workshop called, maybe the car has to learn again… Okay couple of days driven… 100 120 140 160 and even 180 kmh ( downhill xD ) no problem anymore. After a couple of weeks, the jerking started again and he loses again extreme of Leistun. g. This time the rolling does not stop even in the warm condition. Error message Misignition in several cylinders. What can I do now? False air I can at least find nothing. Hopefully someone can help me further.