Category: Citroën C2 & C3 Forum Forum

Hello ! First of all I would like to congratulate you for the quite informative forum here. I am a proud (but often also concerned) owner of a C3 HDI 8 V BJ 2002 (the first model with the bright interior) On the clock I have now only 57000 km. That is why I had the first 45000 km a job which was quite far away (every day 160 km long distance) and now almost only short distances have to drive around the 5 20 km. This month again HU and AU was due. Despite my worry the car had passed the HU without any shortage. But what I had not expected was that I did not get an AU because the workshop could not be measured. They told me that they would not get speed information from the OBD and without speed data no measurement. That was a Free Workshop (ATU) on that I drove to a contract workshop and there they confirmed this to me. I should leave the car for 80 euros an hour that the error is wanted. That has I didn’t accept it at first. I also pointed out that there was a different method of speed determination (upper wavyness of the on-board voltage). I could not be told this. I then drove to a Citroen NIEDERLASSUNG again. There I described my problem and the serviceman immediately said: “This is not a problem of their vehicle but of the workshops where they were, with the older vehicles there was already an OBD but it was not standardized which signal and where these would have to lie” For this there would be an exception in which exactly this measurement by shaft of the onboard voltage is carried out. I now have an appointment for AU next week Can this of a confirm, has someone experienced this also already so? Have really no desire to put the car off in the garage only because nobody can make AU with me … Previous damage to my car: after 1.5 years of failure of the onboard displays, diagnosis : short circuit in the control unit for the return ahrsensoren (Guarantee) after 4 years high pressure pump electrically defective (pump in order but short circuit on one of the coils) ( COST 1300 EURO!!)

Hello dear Citroen-Gemeinde, am here completely new and desperately looking for information about the C2 (especially to, C2 Confort). I have unfortunately not much idea of Autosrage me with this and carry with the thought to buy me the car, was quite enthusiastic after a test drive. I have only different fears: – that the consumption is too high (seek more e9in cheaper model), what experiences do you have there? – I fear that the for a small car is quite in printing equipment (such as board computer, electric window lifter, etc.) might be susceptible to interference – besides: what about spare parts? do you always have to be a (decent) dealer or do you get them (for later times when the car should be older) in the normal trade? – last question: is the car reliable even after several years? or do you have to reckon with many repairs? I could run a C2 Confort for 9.590€ / 3000 km ( I mean, that’s a good price. Would you like that too? Would it be very nice if someone could give me some information. Or maybe the C1 is the better solution? Thank you for the help. Dirtsa

Hello, after my C3 1.6 Sensodrive Exclusive causes permanent errors when switching, the car sometimes no longer drives forward, but only backwards and such things, I would like to return the car now to the Citroen dealer. 2x was tried to fix the error. Also the control unit was changed. But it gets worse and worse. The situations in which the car suddenly stops driving are not safe either. So yesterday he stayed in the middle of driving into a I had to drive a bit backwards and then tap the first gear again…..then we went again……until the next error 5 minutes later ! The dealer is really very kulant, friendly, trying hard…there you can say nothing. Our family bought many cars (also new cars C5/C2) there. I just called there and asked to take the C3 back and to get my other car back. I bought the C3 only 4 weeks ago. 3x it was already in the workshop! I will keep you informed if the dealer takes the car back!!

Hello , my hate love with my French bitch ended up abruptly last week. The 4 year old and 30,000 km running timing belt is broken. (total power of the vehicle 8 years 80,000km) The following symptoms : Accelerate on the acceleration strip , at about 3000 RPM there was a squeak/jauling noise in the engine compartment. After that power loss. With Pedal2 floor plate the car was to be held at 85 km, with each delay the car was then not faster to get after that, but stopped This speed. After a delay to 30 km was only possible to roll out. NO engine control light, NO jerk in the vehicle. An opening of the engine cover showed: cover of the zah strap damaged, zah strap to see whether it is still on it or only those parts of it are unclear. Car does not ignite any more. Questions: 1. Is this symptom zah strap crack typical? Usually I thought that at least a heavy jerk goes through the car when the pistons break down the injection system. 2. Is there a chance that the engine remained undamaged with timing belt tear? 3. Can I still make any optical diagnoses? In case of engine damage I can only scrap the car and that after 8 years and 80,000 km. I had had the ZR exchanged with a Rep 4 years ago at 50,000 km and had the still far from on the plan. Intervals are indeed at Cit 10years/240000km. Seuftz .. the next one probably will not be a Cit. 🙁

Hello, have my C3 1.6 Sensodrive Exclusive now for 10 days. Built 2004, 84,000 km. Yesterday I wanted to overtake a scooter on the Landstr. I gave full throttle, was in automatic mode ( 4th gear). The car turned down like wild into the 2nd gear, the engine howled like in idle, acceleration was gone, the automatic symbol in the speedometer flashed, over it a star blinked and it beeped in the interval. Likewise the automatic mode turned out. After then the overtaking process broch I was in an extremely good mood! What was that??? Must something be reprogrammed? Have the feeling that the car is switching funny anyway. Often too late…! When speeding up on the Landstr he often stays in the 4 gears, he howls like a rocket and then switches after 5 seconds, when he realizes that I don’t want to accelerate further, finally into the 5th gear. That would never happen to a car with a manual transmission. Do! Doesn’t sound healthy…… And now???? Is there a tip? I already informed the workshop. But there is no appointment on Tuesday!

Hy As described above, the car is running out of traffic lights. It runs uneasy in the stationary gas and the DZM is shaking, so the speed changes can be seen, that makes it a few times and then goes out. Citroen meant that it is located at the blue point radio, which disturbs the motor electronics. However, it was connected with the original adapter of Citroen. I now made it as recommended, directly to the strippings at the ignition lock (with fuses). As long as the radio is not on. The radio is not turned on since yesterday. So it is still in the test phase. Date at the dealer is Monday, but wanted to check as much as possible. Oh yes, the lamp flashes/lights from time to time from the motor electronics and then goes out again. In the error memory there is nothing in it. Air filter is still ok, spark plugs I check afterwards when the engine is cold again. What are the costs and which really are the costs? Do they have a change interval?? The book says what of 60tkm, but the car is used almost only in urban traffic. MFG Sebastian

Frosty greetings from Northern Germany 🙂 Now it probably caught me : I can no longer start my car. Vehicle: Citroen C3 HDI 8V Diesel (3001/760) Year of construction 2002 70000 km (many routes under 20 km) Symptom is as follows: For about 2 years it is like that the car starts over +3 degrees immediately making max 2 revolutions of the starter. Below up to -2 degrees the starter turned 5 to 6 times and seemed this winter a little “tormented” but at the first time at -2 degrees was e the last week so that he was very tormented (lights were dark). But it was in all cases like this, that the car also after only one km drive (i.e. to the gas station) immediately super again sprang up. Yesterday however it was so (at minus 8 degrees) the nothing more went. Radio interior light and outside light worked. But starter only very tiredly turns a turn, afterwards violent blinking of the (off!) headlights, windscreen wipers went on and off. clock jumped on 00:00, lukewarm The problem became worse from winter to winter. Battery is 7 years old (64Ah / 600A). As far as I know a battery at that age is already a “methusalem”. Since I already had violent electrical problems with this C3, I ask myself (and you) : Is this really the classic “defected battery” ? I do not want to put again (possibly useless) 100 euros into this “scrap car”, although I connect with the “franzosenzicke” a certain “hate love” ; -) A few days before the failure I have still observed that the power steering worked only on each 3rd ignition. Can this be related to the battery, or what could that be? Thank you in advance 🙂

Hello, I have been driving a C2 1.1 for about 1.5 years. When I bought the car, I thought that I could save myself the contributions for the ADAC because of the mobility guarantee. Somehow I had to “forget” there to cancel. In the meantime I am glad that I did not do it. On Sunday, 20.12.2009, I stayed with a defect in the middle of extreme snow drift. Well, I thought, call them and then they will For 45 minutes I was comforted that the next free employee would take care of me immediately. Then the battery of my mobile phone, especially because of the extreme cold, was almost empty and I hung up. I then called the ADAC, which was then also about 15 minutes later on and dragged my vehicle to my dealer. Whether I was screwing up the statistics of Citroen, I was pretty much indifferent at -12 degrees The C2 was my first Citroen and will also be my le le I don’t know.

Servus municipality, I have a problem with my c2 1.1 of 04, and that was the secondary air pump dismantled, because the motor allegedly attracts watery or dirt over time. however, all iO engine was like new, during assembly but silicone was used at least in the cover where the turbine wheel is screwed together with the last plastic cover. installed started motor jerks in the cold condition where the pump should run naturally so about 5sec. later again the e pump disassembled and seen that the turbine wheel with silicon fixed was all free made wheel can also be easily rotated only the safety skins after a few days out so few days goes well and then the pump no longer jumps on and safety is flat!!!!! I have already bridged with cable to battery there is everything iO. pump runs and sounds good. now my question can it be that maybe something else could have broken because the pump wheel does not get through the silicon could turn???? (except the 6 fuses) that broke me!!!! the next exhaust stings after sprit because not everything is burned, I think with the time of the time also not so good for because kat or? would like to have a info of you

Hello dear ones, since June 2007 I’ve had the new VTS with 122 hp, I’m a bit shocked about the fuel consumption have now nearly 3000 km down and it’s still at 9-10l Once I had 8,7l drive about 30 min to work (both ways) otherwise city… Find it pretty extreme because lt manufacturer is considerably less stated – ok after that you can’t usually go but for such a “small” car….. Has someone already had experience with it? What can I do there? Update at Handeler? Thank you Simone before