Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Good day dear community, I have an interview tomorrow and I was told I should inform about towing levers etc.. I would have a question that I don’t find on the internet. Where is the towing lever or the cup plunger used instead of the towing lever? If I researched something about the towing lever I noticed that it is every time about motorcycles. Now I would like to know if you actually only find towing levers in motorcycles, and if yes why or if there are also normal cars with the towing lever system. Possibly, but not so important if it is not so easy to answer, someone could explain to me why sometimes the towing lever is used and not the cup plunger or towing lever or where else just the towing lever instead of the two towing levers. Where are the differences here? Lg Ophidias

Hello together, in view of the planned, once again intensified EU exhaust limits for cars I am just wondering, if there burners, especially Otto engines, also diesel, can technically still come along because of me? Let’s say, it can really cost something, like today often a hybrid drive extra, what should you do exactly and how clean you get gasoline engines at all? According to the motto “Chemiefabrik im Trunk”. What would they have to do and with which components. One could read somewhere that one could make for about 3000 euro per vehicle extra price series cars (petrol cars) really clean. At least like e-cars in the overall inspection. Or are gasolineers anyway all switched to gas or some eco-tanking, which is then again considered politically “good”? I regret it very much that the manufacturers seem to swing on electric. The charging and the range I find completely inadequate and for me as a lantern parker basically not usable. So I really don’t need a car. Even today’s small engines, so Polo or Dacia with 3-Zyl would have to have to have a look like of 50, but a bit less CO.

Hello guys, I have a big problem, my Audi RS5 (which I sold) has an engine damage of just 53,000 KM. The car is just 2.5 years old. All inspections were made at Audi, no tuning or similar. Audi turns out to be cross and doesn’t want to take over a cent on the wheel, even the 300,- Euro for the damage detection are calculated. The car was moved with overpass mark, and at approx. 100 KM/H simply gave up the “spirit”. (Out of the way). I would be happy about a feedback, or maybe someone has experienced the same fate and can give me a few tips. I don’t want to take the whole thing that easy. Thank you and nice greeting Freeman

When I was on the ring on the weekend and excited about the sound of the M2 Competition despite sports exhausts, I asked myself the question whether there will be a Sport OPF, or if it is even possible. My consideration is that there is also Sport Kats that steal less sound than normal. In the case of the M2 with sports exhaust I am satisfied with the volume and in everyday life the sound is more or less good but in the Sport+ the only sound I can call loud, it is neither hollow nor dull, it is just an unsightly noise. What I would hope from a Sport OPF would be just more abundance. So what do you think? Will there be a Sport OPF? Will the car manufacturers find a way to keep a better sound despite OPF?

Hello, I wonder how different the components of the drive train are loaded in different gears. Let’s take the following two examples to compare: – Driving in 1st gear, starting from 2000 rpm to 6500 rpm Full-speed – Driving in 4th gear, starting from 2000 rpm to 6500 rpm Full-speed According to my logic, the engine would have to be less loaded in 1st gear, because it has to fight with less resistance and turns up faster, so it will only be loaded for a shorter time. But what about the remaining drive train (two-mass swing wheel, clutch, gear, cardan shaft, hardy disk, differential, drive shafts)? I imagine that in 1st gear more torque will arrive at the wheels than in 4th gear. Because it is also easier to let the wheels spin through in 1st gear than in 4th gear. That would mean that the remaining drive train will be loaded more in 1st gear than in 4th gear. Is this right?

Hello, I have already read through the numerous threads on similar topics, but not yet found a suitable answer to my question. In general, there seems to be a bit of a spiritual question anyway. Yesterday the following situation: 40km quite normal country road; in front of the parking lot about 20-30 meters quite steep path (I drove in the 2nd gear, quite high load, Turbo was clearly audible) My question: Are so short distances already enough to make the turbo “too hot? I as a layman already think that a turbo should have no problems with it (were not 2h at full load and 20-30 meters are also somehow a joke, but on the other hand, the revolutions in the turbo are also very high?). Anyway, I went for safety then just a round over the parking lot with standing gas / little gas to cool the turbo again. Thank you for your information. PS: is about a new Fiesta with 1.0 Ecoboost, which is why I am always a little paranoid, but also a little paranoid.

Today’s cars are certified “as a whole” a better durability than the cars of a few decades ago, so at least my impression. This is probably primarily about the rust question, not about electronics and drive. =) In the engine area there is the assumption that “downsizing” leads to increased wear – is this only focused on attachments such as turbochargers, injectors etc. or does this concern in your opinion also the block including moving parts? I would like to look at this from the perspective of the moderate load placed on an engine in its lifetime. But even with a restrained motorway speed of 130 km/h, the continuous load required by smaller engines is significantly greater than with correspondingly stronger engines. For this, the smaller engine can be moved significantly more efficiently, namely in correspondingly higher load range.My core question is based on an example: Motor A has 80 hp, runs the majority of its life with 130 km/h = moderate load requirement Motor B has 140 hp, runs the majority of its life with 130 km/h = low load requirement. Now the nominal power is of course only a rough measure of the capacity of the engine’s average operating speed or is made up to the average.

It’s a good day for all those who read it! For a few months now, I’ve been working hard on the conversion of the fleet in my family. I want to get away from the diesel engine, but I need space and long-distance suitability. In the end, I have to find a large combination that has no fine dust problem, no nitrogen oxide problem, no range problem, and still emits less than 130 g CO2. Full hybrids like the Prius are not enough space and not enough long-distance comfort. Full hybrids from Lexus leave, because I want to get away from the SUV in general. Now I’m considering whether a pure petrol engine could be a solution. Unfortunately, it’s hardly reasonable to find information about the injection methods used in each case. A direct injection device may be problematic, even if they will receive a particulate filter in the future. Euro 6c on the paper does not mean that even in reality, the values will not be met. Unfortunately, I have to be mobile throughout Germany and therefore only cars that are not affected by strict future driving bans. I don’t have a list with the middle/high fuel consumption?

Hey! (Bin 19 years old) I’ve had my driver’s license since the latest. I’ve also got my own car now. But now I have the “problem” that it’s a petrol engine and I’ve driven diesel. There you only had to let the clutch come, and he left. However, it’s different now with the petrol engine. You have to work here mixed with gas and clutch. I’m not really getting rid of my car now. But I’m kind of insecure and nervous when I’m at a junction, and 5-10 people are behind me. I’ve heard that you should let the clutch come first, to the grinding point, and then slowly give gas, and then when it starts to give more gas. I tried it that way, but the car usually chokes off me. I now have a slightly different method that is almost wiping-safe, but I don’t know if it’s good for the engine. If I’m, for example, at the traffic light, I’m going green, I’ll give it a little gas, until about 1500-2000, and then I’ll let the clutch come slowly. Sometimes I’s come softly away, but I don’t want to say anything.

Hello, can you basically buy a car with a steering chain problem. If you had to pull the chain out and replace it with a good margin, would the problem be solved? I am just thinking about whether it should be a 1.4 TSI Golf VI. Alternatively, I would possibly avoid a Golf VI with a timing belt (the 80 HP version) or further on a Golf VII.