Category: Engines & Drives Forum

Hello, can you basically buy a car with a steering chain problem. If you had to pull the chain out and replace it with a good margin, would the problem be solved? I am just thinking about whether it should be a 1.4 TSI Golf VI. Alternatively, I would possibly avoid a Golf VI with a timing belt (the 80 HP version) or further on a Golf VII.

Hello together Unfortunately, we have a motor damage with our camper, which is exactly the problem nobody knows, because the work is apparently not worth it to find out. It is a Opel Movano, built in 2002. Since it is a heart project, we do not want to give up the bus yet. Our workshop of trust can however obviously not help us any more. New replacement engine would have been planned, including new coupling etc. expensive but should have been a long-term, meaningful solution. The problem: The new replacement engine, which was available in the system, is now suddenly in the warehouse no longer findable. So falls away. Alternative 1: Engine revision, comes here in Switzerland but inclusive of installation and extension to over 15’000 CHF, which we simply cannot afford, in the end, because we have the “feeling” at a engine overhaul, that we have “no guaranteed solution” thereby. Alternative 2: Used engine. Again, the “catze in the bag”-purchase feeling, but more cost-effective and therefore more acceptable for us. But, the Swiss market has nothing to offer?

Evening the gentlemen (and ladies), the previous owner of my new used E91 has really exhausted it with the time for the oil change and drove 30000km and 4 years without oil change. Anyway, nothing is noted in the checkbook. The new oil is now 1000km in. Question: Should I change this right away to compensate for the long phase before or aim for a normal interval of 10000km? In total the car has 74,000km down. Petrol with 143hp.

Hello together, independent of the car brand I have the following technical question, in which I would like to hear opinions: car: petrol, DSG, electric parking brake with mountain assistance Situation: car drive forward on the mountain car in cold condition: – the parking brake is active. – One pushes on the accelerator pedal. – brake dissolves – car rolls back (~30cm) – clutch grips – car drives “backwise” forward car in warm condition – car does not roll back – car drives “softly” forward, you can do the driving Meinug after, a car, as described in cold condition, may not roll back when driving. I even feel this behavior as dangerous. Friendly greetings Spooci

Hello, has anyone ever thought about oil preheating by means of electric heaters? I think about how I can improve the living conditions of my poor short-range motor (Diesel 2.5L Renault G9U) a little bit. DEFA & Co. doesn’t give much about oil preheaters. Cooling water preheating is like sand on the sea, but I’m less interested in it, I’m interested in oil and cold start wear. The first idea to press the oil circuit electrically with pressure before starting the engine turned out to be not really practicable/permanent. Plan B would be, by means of an electric heater, as installed in the Mercedes W210/211 or in the BMW 730d (transmitter heater), to pump the olio in the oil tank and heat it up. How do you estimate that, could the cooling water heaters also digest oil?

Hello, my old Ford Ranger had prescribed all 30,000km of oil change. I had made an additional oil change after 15,000km myself… With my new Ranger Raptor all 20,000km of oil change is due at Ford. According to “Oil Sensor”, I probably even have to make an oil change at Ford at 17000km. Honestly, I don’t want to make 8500km of new oil change in the future. Now my question: Makes sense after about 10000km 5 of the 7 liters of oil suck off and fill up a canister of freshness again. That would remove the majority of the oil thinning and also bring in fresh additives again. Of course, the prescribed oil changes are made at Ford after specification. The suction and filling is made really fast…

What’s going on in the round? What’s going on in the round, I’ve been looking for an error: Number: P175D: Coupling 1 opens unintentionally Type of error 1: DTC_KWP2000_ERRORTYPE1FST000000 Type of error 2: sporadically Number: P175D: Coupling 1 opens unintentionally Type of error 1: Upper limit exceeded Type of error 2: sporadically to fight. To the background: DQ200 in Fabia II year 2010 , which was acquired as a new car. In 2011 the mechatronics was exchanged “on suspicion”, afterwards 2013 new coupling coverings were given. Both measures had no positive effect on the constant plucking and hitting of the DSG. Since the expiry of the guarantee in 2015 no further repair actions, the switching was becoming more and more violent. Recently transition into the “emergency run”, gear display flashed. The friend would like to change over the mechatronics again?

The car is ready to drive and is in its original condition with 117000 km. In addition, the price sounds interesting to me. However, the owner is not a hobbyist, that is, he only had to do the most necessary things. My main concern is the engine, because I can hardly estimate the quality inside. I unfortunately do not have tools or access to a workshop. So you would always have to let an expert in it. Can someone give me a tip which procedure is the most meaningful with regard to the engine. Possibility 1: Have an oil change at a flat rate and hope that the engine will run as long as possible. or possibility 2: …would you recommend an oil analysis. Have found the page www.oiltest24.de. There, I would be very happy to have the actual condition of the engine determined on the basis of an analysis. Has anyone already had experience with such an analysis? Is the result so meaningful to determine whether any component in the engine has to be renewed?

Hi, in the private motorsport forum there are unfortunately no answers, but maybe yes here. I have a question about Dragrace. You can see in many videos that in acceleration races, or just in the measurement 0-100, people switch the automatic to manual. Why do they do that? The automatics do have a sports program and turn up the gears later anyway and pull up the gears anyway to the limit. What does it bring to the gears manually to switch up? An automatic can the mMn. better and you don’t have to grope around at the paddles all the time. Is that just because it is more fun, it really brings something up, or is it really totally unnecessary and you lose even time? Often you also see that the drivers have the car short in the limiter instead of switching up and that also costs because it doesn’t go any further at the moment. Just like too early to switch high. With my former GTI I always had the S position in it and was good. I am a layman and I would be interested in the answers.

Good morning, since I have little idea of the matter, I would be very happy about some advice. I need a “new” (older used) car. Now, besides models (it is supposed to be a high-roof combi or mini-bus to be able to stay in it) also the question about the engine. I have a very different profile of rides, therefore I do not know if a petrol or diesel would fit better. In everyday life I drive only good 5 km to the station, from which I commute with the public. In the summer the intention is to drive regularly also by bike to the train station, but weather and pig dog then certainly let me take the car often. In addition 1-2 times the week to appointments or shopping, also mostly under 10 km, so classic short distance. So would speak for the petroler. But on the other hand, I drive about 2x monthly 300km to the family. Additional several times in the year with trailers (motor bikes to meet and race track) or bicycle carriers to WE holidays. In addition 1-2 yearly longer holiday trips. But it is enough to talk about a diesel, the daily life, but there is not too much too busy.